
Florence Irwin 



By Florence Irwin 



The Fine Points of Auction Bridge 

The Development of Auction Bridge under 
the New Count 

Auction High- Lights with a Full Exposition 
of the Nullo Count 

Nullo Auction 



Nullo Auction 

By 

Florence Irwin 

Author of "The Fine Points of Auction Bridge," 
"Auction High-Lights," etc. 



Together with 

The Laws of Auction 

As adopted by 

The Whist Club, Nov., 1913 

And 
Differences between these and 

The English Laws 

As adopted by 

The Portland Club, May, 1914 



G. P. Putnam's Sons 

New York and London 

Cbe fmtckerbocfcer press 

1914 



1 13 



Copyright, 1914 

BY 

FLORENCE IRWIN 



i/^ 



6, 
I 28 1914 



Ube ftnicfeerbecfcer f>rc&e, Hew H?orfc 



QA387247 



MY HULLO CREED 

It is not only when my cards are poor and 1 
"cannot wait for luck to turn" that 1 want 
nullos. 1 want them equally when I hold high 
cards! 1 want them : 

Because the other man should have his 
chance. 

Because easy winnings do not appeal to me. 

Because I prefer a good fight to a hold-up. 

Because I do not find it amusing to rifle 
victims who are practically bound and gagged. 

Jtnd because I have no desire to be either 
victim or thug in such an encounter I 

FLORENCE IRWIN. 



in 



PREFACE 

The advent of nullos has tremendously en- 
larged the game of Auction. My previous book, 
Auction High-Lights, was the first in the world 
to treat of nullos in Auction; all that I wrote 
there, I emphatically confirm here. But there is 
now much more to say. 

My readers and I have blazed the nullo-trail ; 
all others are our followers. Whoever essays to 
teach or to learn nullos, to-day, treads a safe 
and smooth road, made possible by our pioneer 
efforts. Sign-posts mark the pitfalls; we reared 
those posts. Lights illumine the way; we placed 
them there. 

As in all pioneer experiences, new vistas are 
constantly opening, and much interesting nullo 
information has recently been added to the sum 
of human knowledge. It demands recording. 

Following my Auction High-Lights, numerous 
books appeared, containing nullo-chapters. But 



vi Preface 

these chapters were distinct and detachable 
from the book proper. Nullos were not treated 
as an integral and accepted part of the game, but 
merely as a possible novelty. Auction was one 
thing, — nullos were another. To my mind, the 
great field of nullo- Auction has never yet been 
adequately covered. 

It is no longer correct to regard Auction and 
nullos separately. A comprehensive study of 
the game with the nullo as one of its component 
parts, seems to me a necessary addition to the 
card-literature of the day. I therefore present: 

Nullo Auction 

F. I. 

Hastings-on-Hudson, N. Y., 

October, 1914. 

Author's Note: Much of the ensuing material 
has already appeared in the New York Sunday 
Times, which was the first newspaper in the 
world to conduct an Auction-nullo campaign. 

F. I. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 
I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

V. 

VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 
IX. 

X. 
XI. 

XII. 
XIII. 



THE ABOLISHMENT OF THE FORCED BID 
NULLOS .... 

COMBINING THE HANDS . 



THE NULLO BID, RAISE, PASS, AND OVER 
CALL .... 

THE DEUCE IN NULLOS . 

CORRECT OPENING NULLO-LEADS 

THE PLAY OF THE NULLO-HAND: BY DE 
CLARANT, — BY ADVERSARY 

CONDENSED NULLO-HINTS 

THE PROPER VALUE FOR NULLOS 

WHO MADE NULLOS? 

SOME DISCARDED NULLO-SUGGESTIONS, AND 
THE REASONS FOR DISCARDING THEM 

THE PLAY OF THE HAND IN POSITIVE SUITS 

CONDENSED HINTS FOR THE PLAY OF THE 
HAND IN POSITIVE SUITS 



XIV. THE SHIFT 



PAGE 
I 

9 
17 

22 

55 
70 

80 
120 
130 
137 

142 
148 

184 
194 



Vll 



Vlll 



Contents 



CHAPTER 




PAGE 


XV. 


THE DISCARD . 


. 201 


XVI. 


DECISIONS .... 


. 203 


XVII. 


THE QUESTION OF HONORS 


. 214 


XVIII. 


THE REVOKB. 


. 218 


XIX. 


PARTIAL-HAND PROBLEMS 


222 


XX. 


SOLUTIONS .... 


. 228 


XXI. 


DUPLICATE AUCTION 


• 239 


XXII. 


A PLEA .... 


■ 24I 




THE LAWS OF AUCTION . 


• 243 



THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE AMERI- 
CAN LAWS AND THE ENGLISH LAWS AS 
ADOPTED MAY, I914, BY THE PORTLAND 
CLUB, LONDON .... 



277 



A COMPARISON OF THE AMERICAN AND 

ENGLISH LAWS .... 284 



Nullo-Auction 



Nullo-Auction 



CHAPTER I 

THE ABOLISHMENT OF THE FORCED BID 

The most sensational Auction change in 
years, has taken place in England. I am sure 
that America will soon follow suit. 

The change in question is the abolishment of 
the forced bid from the dealer, who is now per- 
mitted to pass. Not since the supplanting of 
the old count by the new, has anything so radical 
been done to the game. 

Nullos have been introduced in the interim, 
but nullos are not a change. They are a much- 
needed and highly scientific addition. To adopt 
them is to give the game fascinating additional 
possibilities hitherto unknown; to omit them is 
merely to limit and contract your field of action, 



2 Nullo-Auction 

but it is entirely possible. Whether they are 
in or out, the old part of the game remains 
unchanged. 

But the abolishment of the forced bid goes 
to the root of the old game. It breaks the first 
principle laid down by the original laws, — and 
it breaks it rightly. 

The forced opening-bid is a relic of barbarism. 
The early days of Auction were full of errors that 
have since disappeared. 

"Waiting" spade-bids, made on good hands 
with the object of gleaning information, — were 
once considered intensely clever. They put the 
dealer on a pinnacle of advantage and moved 
the responsibility on to the subsequent bidders. 
Those primitive " subsequent bidders" assumed 
the proffered burden. Soon, they began to ask 
themselves why they were so obliging; they 
ceased to bid against a spade, unless to go game. 
And, immediately, the waiting spade-bid dis- 
appeared — killed by the clever counter-thrust. 
No one any longer bid a spade unless he really 
had to. 

There were also the doubles of one-bids, — 



Abolishment of tKe Forced Did 3 

made simply to show a stopper in the suit. A 
little experience as to the ease with which a 
player could change a one-bid, or the plight 
in which a doubler might find himself — if left 
in with his double — soon cured players of such 
primitive ideas on doubling. 

The passing of the breathless no-trump race 
was accomplished by the proximity of the new 
suit values. The overthrow of the various 
complicated " calls' ' was the result of the good 
sense and good taste of the large majority of 
players. As one well-known authority has put 
it: you don't send to an Auction, scouts who 
are instructed to utter cryptic mouthings; you 
go yourself and bid, in clean plain language, for 
the thing you want. 

The "heart-convention" and the "weak-suit 
convention" are also things of the past. Who 
ever hears of them now? 

All these things, however, were merely matters 
of opinion and taste. They could be assumed or 
cast aside, argued for or against, according to 
fashion or the player's bias. They were never 
governed by law. And the forced opening-bid 



4 Nxillo-AAiction 

was so governed. It was impossible to avoid 
until the day should come when a sufficient 
number of intelligent and important players 
should agree to make new laws and to dispense 
with it. 

In America such a responsibility has been 
often discussed but never assumed. It was 
feared that too many hands would be thrown 
out, that the dealer's "pass" would be followed 
by three other passes, — and that a new deal 
would be necessary. 

In England, representatives from all the im- 
portant clubs have unanimously decided that 
the forcing of the opening-bid was a senseless 
and unnecessary custom, and that it should be 
abolished. It is asserted that in three months' 
steady play, but four deals have been discarded, 
— and that all four of those deals were exceed- 
ingly mediocre and uninteresting, and could 
have scored but the odd. 

With the overthrow of the forced bid there 
will be no longer any false or distorted bids. 
Every bid will mean what it says. And that is an 
end for which I have been fighting ever since the 



Abolishment of tHe Forced Bid 5 

beginning of my Auction career. My readers 
will not need to be reminded that I have always 
detested artificial bids. 

Let us look for a moment on the results of the 
new change. Let us suppose the dealer to have 
opened with "one spade" and second-hand to 
sit next with quite a good general hand, — a hand 
containing two or three aces or kings, but not 
a startling no-trumper. Second-hand would 
say to himself: "I am not going to bid; he can- 
not make more than two, or four, and I may make 
a hundred." But under the new regime this 
cannot happen. Second-hand must bid, or risk 
forfeiting his hand. If he forfeits it, his next one 
may be worse. He will have to shoulder his own 
responsibilities instead of sitting calmly in the 
lee of the dealer's bid. 

Then, suppose the dealer and second-hand each 
to have an exceedingly light no-trumper. The 
dealer may now bid, or he may pass, — according 
to his temperament, his degree of caution, and 
his bidding theories. If the dealer passes and 
second-hand chooses to bid (fearing that two 
more passes will cost him his possible no- 



6 Nullo-Auction 

trumper), — he will find himself with a much 
more formidable adversary than he imagined. 

The gambling element will be tremendously in- 
creased. "Pass, M from the dealer, will be much 
less informatory than a bid. Position, the score, 
and state of the penalty column, can all be 
subtly utilized in the decisions as to bid and 
pass. 

If the dealer finds himself with a strong gen- 
eral hand and heavy penalties already scored 
against him, he may think it clever to "pass," 
in the hope of defeating any adverse bid and of 
recovering some of his lost penalties. And he 
may hear three answering "passes/' and find 
himself forced to resign the best hand he has 
yet held, — or he may not. 

Auction has been called "Bridge with an in- 
fusion of Poker "; it has heretofore been admit- 
ted, however, that bluffing (the essence of Poker) 
was impossible in Auction because every hand 
was played to a finish. Under the new regime, 
every hand will not necessarily be played at all. 
Nevertheless, the fact that one has a partner 
in Auction and no partner in Poker, will tre- 



.AbolisHment of tHe Forced Bid 7 

mendously lessen any advantage of bluff, in the 
former game. 

There are endless bidding possibilities in the 
new field, — and endless barriers destroyed by 
the sane abolishment of the forced bid. To my 
mind, the greatest point is that it sounds the 
death-knell of the last set, and false, bid. 

The two-spade bid will be quite annihilated 
by the change. It is a bid which I discarded, 
personally, years ago, as entirely unnecessary 
in these days of light no-trumpers. Knowing 
its popularity with certain players, I never 
attempted to dislodge it, — contenting myself 
with seeing it disappear amongst my own 
friends and pupils. Now, however, I see its 
twilight deepening into night. On all hands 
which have heretofore been " two-spaders/' 
players will find themselves obliged to bid "a 
no-trump," "a nullo," a suit, or to pass, — 
according to the type of the hand and the state 
of the score. Nullos have so enlarged the field 
of bidding, and the elimination of the forced 
bid has so enlarged the field of passing, that 
the days of our emancipation have come. 



8 N\illo-A\iction 

Nullos give a man a chance to bid on certain 
hands that have hitherto been impossible, and 
to play those hands to profit; the new English 
law gives him a chance to pass on certain other 
hitherto impossible hands. Increased oppor- 
tunities for bid, play, and pass, go hand-in- 
hand. 

All is real, all is sane, all is as it should be. 

Spades at two a trick will cease to exist. The 
suit will have but one value — nine. There will 
be no "one spade," "two spades, " "three 
spades," — nor any other spades. In fact, the 
tendency of certain players to take advantage of the 
low suit and to ruin the game with false, illegiti- 
mate, and unethical bids was the actual reason 
for the abolishment of the two-value. 

Since America is still using the forced opening- 
bid, it is still necessary to write of bidding "one 
spade. " When she decides to discard it, simply 
substitute the words, "to pass," for "to bid a 
spade, " and you will find all the rules laid down 
in the following pages, to be entirely correct. 



CHAPTER II 

NULLOS 

No Auction development has ever been so 
maltreated as nullos. It is sufficient proof of 
their worth, virility, and desirability, that they 
continue to live and flourish after more than a 
year of horrible misuse. Had they been merely 
a fairly good thing, — an interesting but non- 
essential adjunct, — they would have been dead 
and buried long ago, — killed by abuse and over- 
work. 

I do not mean that there are no good nullo- 
players; there are scores of them. But they are 
outnumbered a hundred to one by players who 
think they understand nullos, and who use them 
constantly and atrociously. 

People seem to labor under the mistaken idea 
that it is an easy thing to lose tricks ; it is a very 
difficult thing when your adversaries are doing 

9 



io Nullo-Aiaction 

their best to thrust tricks upon you, when you 
are carrying an exposed Dummy that you have 
not seen during the bidding, and when every 
trick must be lost a second time by that Dummy 
(after being lost in your own hand) — in order to 
be lost at all. 

As I look back over the history of Whist, 
Bridge, and Auction, I can think of no develop- 
ment that has been handled as ignorantly as 
nullos. When Bridge superseded Whist, all 
those who wanted to learn the new game went at 
it seriously; they took lessons, studied pro- 
foundly, spent hours over knotty problems, and 
treated the novelty with deference. When Auc- 
tion crowded out Bridge, it was accorded the 
same respect; players would say: "I don't 
understand this new game yet; I shall have to 
study it longer before I try it publicly. There 
is a lot to it." If they didn't enjoy it at first, 
they realized that their inexperience and half- 
knowledge were to blame. Auction-teachers 
found the days too short to fill the demands on 
their time. Then followed the revolutionary 
New Count, and it was handled just as carefully. 



Nullos ii 

But nullos were apparently supposed to be 
self -teachers. The average player thought they 
"must be just like Hearts* ' (imagine Hearts with 
bidding, with a partner, and with an exposed 
Dummy to carry). Scientific Auction players 
and old Skat-players realized immediately the 
wonderful scope of the new suit; the mass of 
players most certainly did not. 

You have heard of the man who said he didn't 
doubt that he could play the violin — though he 
had never tried. Imagine the results, — and 
also his probable subsequent opinion of the 
virtues of the violin as a musical instrument ! 

Just so with nullos ; the man who abuses them 
may not care for them ; the man who has mas- 
tered them, will never give them up. 

Xo one bids hearts on spade-hands; no one 
bids hearts on diamond-hands, or club-hands; 
no one forces in a heart-bid on every deal that 
occurs; no one expects to pull off a successful 
heart-bid unless he has the stuff; no one goes on 
raising his own heart-bid indefinitely, with an 
obviously unwilling partner; and no one plays 
hearts improperly, and then lays the blame on 



12 N\illo-A\iction 

the heart-suit. As players treat hearts, so 
should they treat nullos. 

Yet players constantly bid nullos on absolutely 
impossible material; they raise their nullo-bid 
to almost any point without waiting to hear 
from their partners, — or even in the face of those 
partners' warnings; they play nullo-hands most 
horribly; and then, in all probability, they lay 
the blame at the door of the nullo-suit. As a 
child turns and hits the "bad old table' ' against 
which he has just bumped his head, — so do they 
turn and rend the suit they have just abused. 
It has been suggested to me by a scientific nullo- 
lover, that it should be made illegal to play 
nullos without first passing a nullo-examination. 

I once had a partner who was playing a heart- 
hand; he had ten trumps in the two hands, 
including all the top ones, and an excellent side- 
suit. Instead of pulling the adversaries' three 
little trumps, he played first for his side-suit 
and then for a ruff. And the adversaries made 
all three of their little trumps. 

At the end of that game I said to myself: 
"That man cannot play." But I did not say: 



Nudlos 13 

"The heart-suit is a very dangerous thing to 
handle, and should be eliminated from the game 
of Auction/ ' 

Even though a man has grasped nullos himself, 
he still has the horrible chance of drawing a 
partner who has no conception of their proper 
handling. Then let him rave at inexperience, at 
ignorance, or stupidity, but not at nullos. 

Nullos are not only interesting, scientific, 
logical, — they are entirely essential to a well- 
balanced game. Any sport-lover will admit that 
there should be two sides to any game, — attack 
and defense. Attack is all very well; but the 
best game is the one that possesses not only an 
attack but a defense so strong that it amounts to 
an attack. Good cards make a strong attack in 
the hands of any clever player; poor cards have 
heretofore made an impossible defense for any 
player, were he never so clever. Nothing could 
make them win. 

The introduction of nullos has accomplished 
this end; to-day poor cards are a marvelous 
defense, a " defense so strong that it amounts to 
an attack." 



14 Nullo-AAiction 

Take two men of equal strength and men- 
tality ; arm and equip one of them and leave the 
other defenseless; what chance has he? 

The palsied side of Auction has been vitalized. 
The game of yesterday was simply the onslaught 
of high cards against low ones ; success depended 
nearly altogether on holding the larger propor- 
tion of those high cards. The Auction of to-day 
depends but slightly upon the cards dealt; we 
have at last achieved our perfect defense. 

The introduction of nullos has killed any 
possible monotony in the game. You can get 
too much of even a good thing; palates become 
jaded. But when this newly-devised suit lies 
there in abeyance, a reversal of all old ideas, a 
weapon of defense when all else fails (and one 
which must be handled with the greatest skill), 
an occasional sauce piquante for relieving an 
otherwise hopeless dish, — monotony vanishes. 
To banish nullos would be to reinvite it and to 
stultify the game. 

Those of us who were merely unprejudiced 
concerning nullos, a year ago, are enthusiasts 
to-day. Many players who started as extreme 



Nullos 15 

anti-nulloists have either come over entirely, or 
are advertising themselves as " quite unpreju- 
diced either for or against nullos. " It is as long a 
step from antagonism to lack of prejudice, as it 
is from lack of prejudice to enthusiastic support ; 
and it is in the same direction. We started where 
they are now; some day, they will reach the 
point where we now stand 

Finally, if you meet a man who "doesn't like 
nullos, " ask him how often he has played them. 
Nearly invariably the answer will be once, — or 
twice, — or, even, not at all. His opinion doesn't 
count ; it is merely lack of knowledge. 

When anyone asks me if I do not consider 
nullos "dangerous," I always want to answer, 
"yes indeed; and so are hearts, and royals, and 
no-trumps, and diamonds, and clubs." It is 
with cards as with everything else in the world ; 
most good things are dangerous in the hands of 
the ignorant and the inexperienced. 

My purpose in this book is to show my readers 
how to handle nullos aright; I want to teach 
them the real make-up of a nullo-hand; the 
material on which players should bid, raise, 



1 6 N\jllo--A.\iction 

overcall, or pass; and finally, how to play proper- 
ly the various types of nullo-hands when the 
bid culminates. Once fully instructed on these 
heads, I am sure that all superstitious fear of 
nullos, and all ignorant dislike, will vanish; 
players will find that the new negative suit can 
be used with as much ease and accuracy as 
any of the older suits, — and that it makes a 
thoroughly fascinating variant and addition to 
the best card-game in the world. 

I shall write of nullos at eight a trick, — "eight- 
under-hearts. " Long experience proves that 
to be their perfect value, as I shall demonstrate 
later. 



CHAPTER III 

COMBINING THE HANDS 

The objects of bidding in Auction are various. 
These are among them : 

To capture the play of the hand, provided 
you have the requisite material, and provided, 
also, that your partner is not able to play it to 
better advantage. 

To approximate the amount of help that your 
partner can furnish; also to leave him a chance 
to warn you away from a bid in which he would 
be a dead weight. 

To glean useful information from the adver- 
saries. This information will help you to place 
the important cards, will often warn you of un- 
suspected pitfalls, will save disaster, and will 
uncover opportunities of forcing and defeating 
adverse bids. 

And finally, to combine your hand with your 

17 



18 N\zllo-Aviction 

partner's, so as to decide which one shall go to 
the helm. 

The pre-emptive bidder sees only the first of 
these points. To play every hand and to "shut 
out" partner and adversary alike, is his idea of 
Paradise. 

The wise bidder is he who grasps all the ad- 
vantages of the bid and who, if he be pushed to 
decide upon one phase as more important than 
the others, will decide in favor of the combining 
of the hands. 

That is pre-eminently what bidding is for; 
and if it is necessary to combine the hands in 
positive suits, it is a thousand times more neces- 
sary in negative ones. 

A positive hand may easily be strong enough to 
stand alone. No negative hand can ever stand 
alone. It might, if the partner's hand were to 
be thrown out ; but it can never do so when that 
hand is to be played. 

If you have a very good heart-hand (or a 
royal-hand, or a no-trumper), it doesn't matter 
one atom what your partner holds; your cards 
will take the tricks, no matter what he plays. 



Combining the Hands 19 

But if you have even an ideally perfect nullo- 
hand, it matters tremendously what your part- 
ner holds; your cards cannot lose tricks unless his 
cards lose them over again. Unless every trick 
is twice-lost, it is not lost at all; it is won. 

And there you have the difficulty of nullos, 
in a nutshell. A trick is won with one card; it 
must be lost with two. It won't do you a particle 
of good to lose every trick in your own hand, if you 
have to take every trick in Dummy. 

Therefore : 

Never insist on nullos with an obviously un- 
willing partner. 

Give that partner a chance to tell you whether 
he is willing or unwilling. 

Remember that " pass " from his lips, doesn't 
always mean: "I am pleased with your bid." 
It may well mean : " Your bid is most unwelcome 
to me, but I have no way to tell you so." 

Never forget that, whereas in other suits you 
have a right to expect some help from your 
partner, in nullos you must always regard him as 
a probable hindrance, — unless he tells you spe- 



20 N\illo-A.uction 

cifically that he is not one. It is more necessary 
to think of him than of yourself; his hand will 
show! 

In all positive bids, it is desirable that the 
two hands shall "fit. " In nullos, it is positively 
necessary for them to do so. When you find that 
they are an obvious misfit, — stop bidding. That 
hand is not for you ; it was marked as the adver- 
sary's, from the beginning. You are bidding 
and announcing your suits, in order to ascertain 
whether your hand and your partner's will pull 
well together, and, if so, in which suit it is most 
profitable to play them. When you find that 
they are at cross-purposes, be thankful to have 
made the discovery of your danger, and retire 
from the field. Particularly, yield all thought ot 
nullos on that hand. You can not expect to 
play all the hands successfully; no amount of 
forcing or of distorted bidding will achieve that 
end. The wise man is the man who knows how, 
and when, to stop. 

Did you ever hear a man say this : " Of course, 
we could have defeated the other side, but that 
hand of mine was too good to give up. I was 



Combining tHe Hands 21 

certainly determined to play it; — and, do you 
know, they doubled me and made 400?" Did 
you ever hear him chuckle reminiscently over 
the thought that he had kept the adversaries 
from playing the hand, even when he might 
have profited at their expense, instead of per- 
mitting them to profit at his? 
/ have ! 



CHAPTER IV 

THE NULLO BID, RAISE, PASS, AND OVER-CALL 

For nullo purposes, the pack of cards is di- 
vided into three groups, — high, intermediate, 
and low. 

The high cards are the aces and faces; the 
intermediate cards are the tens, nines, eights, 
sevens, and sixes, and are the most dangerous 
cards in the pack; and the low cards are the 
fives, fours, treys, and deuces. Therefore, 
there are but sixteen low cards. The sixes, 
however, are on the border-line; they are, natur- 
ally, the least harmful of the intermediate cards, 
and may almost be considered "low" for 
guarding purposes, but never for playing pur- 
poses. Every suit holds four cards lower than 
its six; both adversaries may "duck" a six-spot 
twice. 

When I speak of a "guarded" suit in nullos, 

22 



Nullo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 23 

I mean — strictly and technically — a suit that 
holds at least one card lower than the six-spot; 
in playing, and when the rest of my hand war- 
rants it, I do occasionally count a six as a 
" guard. " But the nullo beginner will do well 
to adhere to the stricter rule and to consider no 
card a " guard' ' if it is higher than a five-spot- 

The dealer must differentiate sharply between 
a spade-bid and a nullo-bid. He must never bid 
the one when he holds the material for the other „ 
A spade-hand is made up from the middle of the 
pack; a nullo-hand from its two extremes. A 
spade-hand consists principally of intermediate 
cards; a nullo-hand, of high cards well guarded 
with low ones; this is called a " mixed" -hand. 

The absurd theory was once launched, that 
the dealer should never bid "a nullo," for fear 
his partner might have high cards; he should bid 
*'a spade* ' and see if his partner had a nullo. 
This is as sensible as it would be to say that 
"the dealer should never bid 'a no-trump' 
for fear his partner might have low cards; he 
should bid 'a spade' to see if the partner had a 
no-trumper. " Someone must be the first to bid 



24 N\illo--A.\Jction 

"a nullo," and it should be the first man who 
has the material. 

"A nullo," should always be bid in preference 
to "a diamond, M "a club," or "a spade/' — 
unless the score makes a diamond, or a club, as 
valuable as a nullo. In that case, I should choose 
the positive bid as easier, though less interesting. 
On the other hand, a player should always 
choose a no-trump bid, a royal-bid, or a heart- 
bid, in preference to a nullo-bid, — because they 
are more valuable. This is in accordance with 
the rule: use the process of elimination in your 
bid; look first for the highest suit; failing that, 
look for the next-to-highest; and so on down, — 
stopping the moment your hand answers 
"yes" to the suit-test. Bid your highest suit 
first. 

The ideal nullo-hand is not made up of low 
cards exclusively; although you bid nullos on 
such a hand, it is not ideal. First, because if a 
player held thirteen of the sixteen low cards 
there could be few left for his partner; and 
second, because with nothing but low cards, 
he might be able to force the adverse bids, but 



Nvillo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 25 

he could never defeat them, when they obtained 
against him. 

The ideal nullo-hand is therefore a mixed 
hand, made up from the two extremes of the 
pack, and with the high cards well guarded. 
Such a hand leaves plenty of nullo-ground for 
your partner to stand on; he may easily have 
another such hand, and, if he has, you have 
between you a perfect nullo-bid. Again, a 
mixed hand has a very fair chance of defeating 
an adverse positive bid. If you play nullos, 
your high cards (being well guarded) need never 
take; they will be thrown in discard. But if you 
play against a positive bid, those same well- 
guarded high cards will be almost sure to take, — 
and may defeat the bid, if it is high enough. 

The best nullo-hand looks like the first cousin 
of a no-trumper, — because it is a no-trumper; 
hence the family resemblance. Nullos and no- 
trumps, you know, are the only two suits that 
are played without a trump. In both, you want 
high cards guarded with low ones; in both long 
sequences, or near-sequences, are a desirable 
asset. But in the no-trumper proper, the pre- 



26 N\illo--A\iction 

ponderance of the cards should be high or 
intermediate, and in the nullo-hand, the pre- 
ponderance of the cards is low. Another differ- 
ence is this : while blank suits and singeltons are 
deadly in no-trumps, they are highly to be 
desired in nullos. 

The great nullo assets are long sequences, 
singletons, and blank suits. Sequences, whether 
they lie in one hand or distributed between the 
partners, are plate-armor; every break in the 
sequence is a joint in the plate where the enemy 
may drive home his lance. Singletons are 
valuable because they become blank suits after 
one round. And blank suits are valuable for 
two great reasons: first, because they mean 
discards, and discards are the spine of nullos; 
and second, because with a blank suit in one 
hand, you have never to lose twice a trick in 
that suit ; you have but to lose it once, as in all 
positive suits. Your difficulties are therefore 
decreased fifty per cent. 

It follows, therefore, that the best nullo-hand 
is the unbalanced hand. I do not care for a 
hand that is parceled out in suits of three and 



Nxillo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 27 

four cards; no matter how low those cards, it 
means probable equal suit distribution in the 
partner's hand, and no chance of discard. Very 
long suits, and very short ones (or blank suits) ; 
high cards and low ones; sequences or near- 
sequences, — and you have a perfect nullo-hand. 
Intermediate cards are undesirable unless 
they are in sequence with low ones, or unless 
they are guarded as carefully as high ones. The 
trouble with intermediate cards is this : that they 
look low, yet are not. Everyone realizes the 
danger of an ace or a king, everyone sees that it 
needs a guard ; therefore its danger immediately 
vanishes in that it is apparent. But an un- 
guarded seven or eight is nearly as sure a taker 
as an unguarded ace; and this is what players 
fail to grasp. The danger in intermediate cards 
lies in their apparent safety. I had a letter 
from a man who had just played his first nullo- 
hand; he had a handful of intermediate cards 
which he thought were low. He wrote: ''Those 
sevens and eights took tricks in the most un- 
accountable manner; I never before realized 
their power." 



28 N\*llo-A\iction 

Players are too much afraid of high cards and 
too little afraid of intermediate ones. The 
region of high cards is like black darkness — 
everyone enters it carrying a light, and is there- 
fore safe; the intermediate region is like twilight 
obscurity: because you think you need no light, 
you are far more apt to stumble. 

If you hold a good nullo-hand except for one 
poor suit, it is better for you to have that suit 
held on your right, than on your left. You are 
safer to play after it than before it. 

The original nullo-bidder may bid nullos 
with one unguarded suit; just as you cannot bid 
no-trumps with two unguarded suits, so you 
cannot bid nullos. This rule may, however, be 
broken in the case of a singleton. An original 
nullo-bid may be made with one unguarded suit, 
or with two, provided the second one is a 
singleton. 

I should bid " a nullo " on this : 

9 74 
c$> 62 

AKQ 
$ J 9 5 4 32 



N\illo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 29 

Those three diamonds are high, but they mean 
only three tricks, and I am permitted six. 
I should also bid "a nullo" on this: 

tf AK 

* J 

106 5432 

4 Q753 

The second unguarded suit is a singleton; I 
might get a heart-discard on a second club-round. 

The original nullo-bidder may bid two nullos 
unaided; but never three. 

No nullo-rule is more important than this. 
I should never play a second time with any 
player who disregarded it, though I might be 
willing to play with the man who broke all other 
nullo-rules, — provided he kept that one. 

Let us imagine the dealer to open with "a 
nullo" ; second-hand bids, and third-hand passes. 
His story is told; he doesn't like the bid, because 
he doesn't raise it; his hand would be the 
Dummy and is bad for nullos, — though it holds 
no other bid. The dealer should drop his nullos ; 
a pass from his partner is equivalent to an over-call. 

But suppose the dealer bids "a nullo' ' and 



30 N\illo- Auction 

second-hand passes ; third-hand also passes ; that 
"pass" may mean that he likes the nullo-bid, 
or it may mean that he dislikes it but has no 
material for a warning-bid. Fourth-hand bids; 
the dealer may say "two nullos," on a certain 
type of hand. It goes round to fourth-hand who 
bids again. Now, let the dealer never say "three 
nullos," no matter how perfect his hand may look! 
Let him first find out what his partner's "pass" 
meant and whether the two hands fit. If third- 
hand would make a possible nullo-Dummy, he 
will raise the bid; if he wouldn't, the dealer 
should be thankful to be out of his undertaking. 

If third-hand has already raised the bid to 
"two," the dealer may say "three nullos," — 
and as much more as his hand warrants. There- 
fore, let third-hand be sure to give none but 
standard raises; I will explain later what these 
are. 

The difference between "two nullos" and 
"three nullos," is as the difference between light 
and darkness. It might well be called the "great 
divide"; in no other suit is there such a line of 
demarcation. One nullo is exceedingly easy to 



Nullo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 31 

pull off; two nullos are but little harder; but 
the three-nullo hand is a difficult hand to play. 
Very high nullo-bids are constantly successful; 
it is impossible to tell you how frequently I have 
made five nullos, and have seen them made. 
Even nullo-slams, both great and small, are no 
rarity in either bid or achievement ; but they are 
possible only when the two hands fit. Both 
partners must contribute to their making. 

I have said that the original nullo-bidder may 
bid "two nullos," unassisted, "on a certain 
type of hand." Very recently, this hand was 
sent me with a request for my opinion, as to its 
correct opening bid : 

£? A32 
4* 6532 
O A43 
4k K32 

I said instantly that it should be opened with 
"one nullo,' ' but that its holder should never go 
to "two," unassisted, unless against an adverse 
no-trumper. To a novice, that hand would look 
wonderful; and that is its trouble, — it is too 



32 Nvillo-Aviction 

wonderful. It holds all the treys, three of the 
deuces, a four, and a five. What could be left 
for the partner? 

The hand possesses but one requisite of the 
ideal nullo-hand, — it is a "mixed" hand, for it 
holds two guarded aces and a guarded king. 
But it holds, likewise, nine of the sixteen low 
cards. With such a hand, find out whether your 
partner has any of the seven remaining low 
cards and, if he has, let him be the one to say 
"two nullos." 

Again, the suit-distribution is too normal; the 
partner's hand is probably equally well-balanced. 
That means no discards, and if his cards are all 
intermediate or high, he will need discards. 

And yet again, there are no sequences in the 
hand, with the exception of the short club- 
sequence. There is small chance of making 
long intermediate-to-low sequences between 
your partner's hand and your own. I will revert 
later to this hand, and show you all of it. 

As a definite rule, the nullo-bidder should never 
go back to his nullos when he has once been called 
off by his partner; and he should never go high in 



Niallo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 33 

them, alone, with a partner who constantly passes. 

Having explained the duties of the original 
nullo-bidder, I shall pass to the partner, and 
describe his pass, raise, and over-call (" call-off ") . 

If the partner does not like the nullo-bid and 
has no suit of his own, his task is easy, pro- 
vided the intervening adversary bids. A "pass," 
after this adverse bid, is equivalent to a 
protest. 

If the adversary bids, and the partner does 
like nullos, he should raise them. It is as wrong 
to pass a legitimate nullo-raise as to make an 
illegitimate one. 

A legitimate nullo-raise must have every suit 
guarded, except in the case of a singleton. An 
unguarded singleton is permitted, but no other 
unguarded suit. Did the original bidder allow 
himself one unguarded suit, and did the part- 
ner respond with another, that might mean five 
or six sure takers; there would be sure to be 
trouble if the bid went high ; and often the effect 
of a nullo-raise is to send the bid very high. 
Therefore the rules are made more stringent for 
the raiser than for the bidder, because his 



34 



Nullo- Auction 



hand will be open, and the adversary can attack 
it more readily. 

Take this hand, in illustration: 

<$ K6542 
£ K642 
2 

4 742 



V J io 


Y 




9 8739 


Jf, A 109 5 3 


A 


B 


* Q87 


K87 






AQ9 


4 AJ9 


Z 




4 KQ8 



9? AQ 
* J 

J 106 5 43 
<£ 10 653 

Z bid "a nullo" on two unguarded suits, one 
being a singleton; A said "a no-trump'*; Y's 
nullo-raise was wonderful: a mixed hand, a 
singleton, and all four deuces. It is like holding 
a hundred aces, and hearing your partner say 
"a no-trump' ' (the nullo-deuce corresponds to 
the no-trump ace) . Y said " two nullos, " and B 
said "two no-trumps/ ' The two suits were bid 



N\j11o Bid, Raise, and Over-call 35 

against each other till Z-Y went to "five nullos" 
and the bidding closed. And they made it. 
The first lead was correct, — an intermediate 
club (I will explain nullo-leads to you later). 
Z put up Dummy's king and threw his own jack; 
he could take but one more trick. He led the 
king of hearts and threw his own queen, — to keep 
the lead in Dummy. Then he led the six of 
clubs and discarded his heart-ace. 

Had A led a heart, Z would have followed the 
same plan ; he would have taken in Dummy, led 
the club-king, and then a little club, discarding 
the heart. If A took the club-king with the ace 
and led a heart, Z would take two heart-rounds 
and no club-rounds. Against any lead, any 
defense, Z takes but two tricks and makes 
his five-odd nullos. (This hand proves the 
idiocy of doubling high nullo-bids just on 
principle.) 

On the other hand, Z-Y could have defeated 
any high no-trump bid; they could take three 
heart-rounds and a club-round. This illustrates 
what I mean when I say mixed nullo-hands are 
good forcers and good def eaters. 



36 N\illo-.A\iction 

To return to the nullo-raise: if the raising- 
hand holds any long suit, that suit to be safe 
should contain the deuce. In the bidding-hand 
this is not necessary; but the raising-hand is 
exposed ; a raise is not really safe unless it holds 
the deuce of any long suit. I will ask you to 
take this on faith now, and will explain it in the 
next chapter. 

If the partner of the nullo-bidder dislikes the 
bid, and has a legitimate bid of his own, he 
should make it, whether the intervening adver- 
sary bids or not. In the former case, he should 
make it to stop his partner from going to "two 
nullos" ; in the latter case, he should make it for 
forcing, warning, and possible playing, purposes. 
He should not be deterred from bidding no-trumps 
because his partner has bid nullos. I have just 
shown you how a nullo-bid may be a no-trump 
assist. And he should certainly never hesitate 
to venture a sound suit-bid after his partner's 
nullo, — particularly if the suit is higher and can 
be bid without increase of contract. 

Let us now suppose that the dealer has opened 
with "a nullo," and that the adversary has 



N\illo Did, Raise, and Over-call 37 

passed, in place of bidding. This puts the re- 
sponsibility on third-hand. 

If the bid suits him, his task is easy; if it does 
not, and he has a legitimate over-call, it is 
equally easy. But suppose he lacks that over- 
call? 

He should not be unduly concerned about 
leaving his partner in with "one nullo," even 
though his hand is bad. One nullo is not hard to 
make; two nullos are rarely defeated; and no 
good partner will bid three nullos alone. 

Don't warn your partner from "one nullo," 

unless you have a legitimate bid. Otherwise, you 

will be just as badly off in your bid as he would 

have been in his! 

Here is a hand to prove the wisdom of this 
advice : 



38 



Null o- Auction 





^? J 10 6 








s& J10S 








K J 10 7 4 






4* J6 






9 Q72 


Y 




V K98 


* Q742 


A 


B 


4k AK5 


A32 






96 


♦ KQ10 


Z 




4b 98754 




£? A543 






i 


4k 963 








Q85 






< 


£ A32 







Z bids "a nullo" on what has been called "a 
no-trump-nullo" hand; he has two aces and a 
guarded queen, — but the balance of his hand 
points to nullos rather than to no-trumps. Z's 
bid is correct, yet I do not like the even suit- 
distribution; and, as is nearly always the case, 
the other hands are almost equally well- balanced ; 
there is not a singleton or a missing suit any- 
where. 

A holds the hand that Z wants Y to hold; he 
passes because he likes the bid. He has three 
deuces, a trey, and a four; he is like a man who 



Nullo Did, Raise, and Over-call 39 

holds three aces, a guarded king, and a guarded 
queen, and who hears his adversary bid no- 
trump. Why should he bid? 

If A chooses to force with "a no-trump," 
Y passes and the bidding closes. But if A passes, 
the responsibility falls on Y. 

Y holds what looks like an impossible nullo- 
Dummy; there is but one low card in his hand, 
which is a mass of deadly intermediate and high 
cards. He has also a perfectly legitimate dia- 
mond-bid; five cards to three honors (including 
the king) is an eight-point make. Unfortunately 
that is all Y holds; he has no side-strength or 
ruffs. Nevertheless, he rushes to the breach and 
bids "two diamonds" ; the bid is correct, because 
it is not forced; it is thoroughly sound. 

It looks as though with Z's help (three 
trumps to the queen and two side-aces), Y 
should make his bid; Z would even feel himself 
strong enough to raise diamonds, if necessary. 
But the fact remains that Z-Y cannot possibly 
make their diamonds, and they could easily 
make their nullo. In diamonds, they must 
inevitably lose three club-rounds, a spade-round, 



40 N\illo-A\iction 

a trump-round, and a heart-round or two. In 
nullos (properly played by both sides), Z-Y 
make two-odd or three-odd according to play. 
It depends upon whether B does, or does not, 
get a discard of a high club, and whether he 
chooses that for his first discard if the oppor- 
tunity comes. Also upon A's lead; a club-lead 
looks good in A's hand, yet would be most 
unfortunate for his partner. A much better 
lead is the ace of diamonds, — because Y has an- 
nounced a long diamond suit; because, though 
Z can throw two high diamonds on the ace, he 
will positively have to take both deuce and trey, 
later ; because a high lead from A might unblock 
diamonds in his partner's hand, — enabling him 
to get out of the way of the deuce and trey ; and 
because with three diamonds in A's hand and a 
diamond-bid from Y, B may well be diamond- 
short, and may get a valuable discard on the 
second or third round. Such situations as this, 
the case of singletons and doubletons, and one 
other case which I will explain in my chapter 
on nullo-leads, are the only excuses for an 
opening high -card lead, in nullos. 



Nullo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 41 

Our present concern, however, is with the 
fact that no player need be frightened when he 
hears his partner bid "one nullo, " — even though 
his own hand looks impossible. 

There remain five phases of the nullo-bid and 
inter-bid: first, when third-hand and fourth- 
hand want to bid nullos after some different bid 
from their partners; second, when two adver- 
saries want to bid nullos against each other; 
third, the forcing-powers of the nullo-bid when 
it is perfectly apparent that the adversaries are 
afraid to let you play it (even when you know 
yourself to be unable to do so) ; fourth, a warn- 
ing to the adversaries when they are bidding 
against nullos; and fifth, another warning against 
over-rash doubling of nullo-bids. It will be 
necessary to run over these heads separately, 
and as briefly as possible. 

Let us imagine the dealer to be your partner 
and to have opened with any positive bid; you 
(third-hand) hold an excellent nullo-hand. You 
are at perfect liberty to bid it if the dealer's bid has 
been anything other than "a spade. 1 ' After any 
legitimate bid, third-hand may bid his nullos y but 



42 N"ullo--A."Uction 

when he bids them after an opening-bid of "one 
spade," he treads on very dangerous ground. 

Your partner would never choose to play 
spades at two a trick, if he could play nullos at 
eight a trick. What, then, did his spade-bid 
mean? It meant, first, a hand that couldn't 
bid nullos, so why force it to beanullo-Dummy? 
And it meant, secondly, a hand which holds no 
possible bid with which to call you off from your 
nullos. Why would your partner open with "a 
spade' ' if he could bid "a nullo, ,, or if he had 
any other legitimate bid? He wouldn't. Now, 
if he couldn't bid "a nullo" he will make a 
deadly nullo- Dummy, and if he has no other 
possible bid (and he denies such a bid when he 
says "a spade"), how can he get out of the un- 
welcome nullo-bid? 

A heart-hand may also be a nullo-hand; if it 
isn't it can return to its hearts. A royal-hand 
may be a nullo-hand ; if it isn't it can return to its 
royals. A no-trump-hand may be a nullo-hand; 
if it isn't it can return to its no-trumps. But a 
spade-hand cannot be a nullo, and cannot return 
to its spades. The thing is as clear as daylight. 



Nullo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 45 

There is just one case where you might bid 
"a nullo" against your partner's spade. If your 
hand consists exclusively of low cards it may 
make sequences with your partner's intermediate 
hand, leaving only high cards for the adversary. 
But it would be a risk, and such a combination 
wouldn't happen once in a hundred times. Make 
it your rule to avoid nullos, with a spade-partner. 

If your partner is dealer and opens with "a 
no-trump,' ' if second-hand passes, and if your 
hand is an impossible no-trump-assist, it is your 
duty to over-call the no-trump with a two-bid in 
any suit of which you hold u five to an honor, or 
six to anything." But, sometimes, you find 
yourself in the predicament where you would be 
a fearful no-trump Dummy yet hold no six-card 
suit and no five-card suit that runs to an honor. 
"Two nullos" will then be a fitting warning- 
bid; the original no-trumper may be a perfectly 
good nullo-assist. If it isn't, your partner will 
bid "two no-trumps," and you must subside. 
Don't go on bidding at cross-purposes. 

Bid nullos, if you like, after your partner's "one 
no-trump" ; but, in the name of common-sense, 



44 Nvillo-A.viction 

drop your nullos if he raises his no-trumps higher 
than one. 

In a recent game, I opened with "one no- 
trump, " and my partner answered with "two 
nullos"; I didn't dare offer my hand as a nullo- 
Dummy, so I warned with "two no-trumps," to 
which he blithely responded with " three nullos. " 
Thinking his brain would clear on another round, 
I said "three no-trumps"; second-hand doubled 
(I expected that), and my partner kindly "took 
me out " with "four nullos. " This sounds like a 
fairy tale, but it is true. 

I should have yielded in disgust, and left him 
to his fate, but, unfortunately, his losses would 
be mine equally. I said "four no-trumps," and 
was doubled again. With the air of a suffering 
martyr, he said: "Well, partner, I did all I could 
to warn you ! " Not for a moment did he realize 
that I had done more than I could to warn him. 

We lost 200 on the hand, minus 30 aces. Had 
he played nullos, he would have been doubled 
(the adversaries were acute enough to read the 
situation), and he would have taken every trick 
but one, with my hand exposed. His book being 



Nvillo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 45 

three tricks, the adversaries would have scored 
900, plus 20 for slam, plus 30 for our aces. Nine 
hundred and fifty, instead of 170. Which 
"warning" do you think was more necessary? 

One more reminiscence! I opened with "a 
no-trump* ' on a clean score and these cards: 

4b AJ109874 
AK 

4 AK8 

I didn't like the heart singleton, but I should 
rather bid no-trumps than clubs on a clean score, 
and if hearts were held against me, they would 
probably be bid. 

They were. Second-hand said "two hearts/' 
and my partner passed. That was farewell to 
my no-trumper, and I said "three clubs." 

Second-hand doubled, to my tremendous 
delight. Of course I could make it; even giving 
him the king and queen of clubs, he could not 
possibly take another trump-round; I would 
draw his trumps, in order to make my side-suits 
sure; I should lose one heart, and one spade, 
which — with the two clubs — would make four 



46 Nullo-Auction 

tricks, and my three-odd were safe. I couldn't 
possibly be beaten. 

Even had I spoken next, I should not have 
redoubled, for fear of sending him back to his 
hearts. I didn't want to play hearts, and I did 
want to play clubs. My clubs now were worth 
more than no-trumps; three clubs, undoubled, 
are not game; but three clubs, doubled, are game. 

However, it was my partner's turn to speak 
after the second-hand's double. And what do 
you suppose happened? He " rescued" me with 

11 three nullos." Does it seem possible? 

Just consider the situation, even granting 
that he could not see my hand. First, I bid "a 
no-trump"; after the adverse "two heart" bid 
I could have said "three nullos" myself had I 
held a nullo-hand. I should rather have bid 
nullos at eight than clubs at six. By choosing 
the lowest of all the suits, I denied possible bids 
in all the other suits. And a hand that denies 
nullos is much worse on the board than held up. 

I went back to "four clubs," was doubled 
again, and lost just one trick — ioo points minus 

12 honors. Failing my partner's unwarranted 



Nvillo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 47 

interference, I should have landed game and 
rubber; instead of this, the adversaries went 
rubber on the next hand. My partner's " res- 
cue' ' bid cost us about 700 or 800 points. 

The case of fourth-hand is decidedly different 
from that of third-hand ; his partner, not being 
dealer, will never bid "a spade, " — so that the 
anti-spade nullo-warning will never apply to 
him. Also, he should be very wary of bidding 
nullos after his partner's no-trump bid; an open- 
ing no-trumper may be tentative and may 
assist nullos beautifully; a second-hand no- 
trumper is bound to be solid, and will not so 
often fit in with a nullo-bid. It means all-round 
strength. If second-hand has made any suit-bid, 
fourth-hand may bid nullos; a suit-bid shows 
strength in but one suit. The entire balance of 
the hand may be weak, — and even the strong 
suit may be well-guarded with low cards. But 
any no-trumper, other than the dealer's, is 
bound to have a good percentage of general 
strength. 

The second situation to consider is that where 
two adversaries both want to bid nullos. 



48 Nullo-Auction 

It is a very usual thing for a player to bid " two 
hearts," or "two royals, " or "two no-trumps," 
or, in fact, two in any positive suit, in which his 
adversary has just bid one. But in nullos, I 
don't greatly like it. It means that your ad- 
versary has the hand which you need to find with 
your partner, that your partner will probably 
get in your way, and that you know it when you 
bid! The man who bids "one nullo" may have 
a poor partner, but he has also a low contract. 
The adversary who follows with "two nullos" 
will probably also have a poor partner, and he 
will also have a higher contract and an adversary 
who has announced himself as dangerous. The 
first man hopes his partner won't get in his way ; 
the second man is fairly sure that his partner 
will do so. 

Position is to be considered in bidding nullos 
against nullos. It is best done by the person 
who plays after the strong adverse hand, and 
before the adverse nullo. 

The best time to bid nullos against nullos 
is when the partner of the first bidder has over- 
called the nullo-bid, — thus showing an unwilling- 



Nullo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 49 



ness to play the suit. He expects to take a 
number of tricks; seeing this, you can make an 
adverse nullo-bid; he will probably be as loath 
to play nullos against you, as with his partner. 
Moreover, there are times when there are three 
nullo-hands at a table, — and your partner prob- 
ably has the third. Let me show you such a 
hand: 



\ 


V 


J532 






i 


* 


J73 






i 





J5 






i 


* 


K743 






£? KQ76 




Y 




^? A 10 9 4 


* Q 95 


A 


. 


B 


♦ 


AQ43 








10 9 8 762 


4 AJ 




z 




4b 10 8 2 


< 


? 


8 






i 


* 


A K 10 8 6 


42 







K 






( 


* 


Q965 







Z, Y, and B all have nullo-hands. In the 
original hand, the rubber hung at stake, and A-B 
had 28 on it, while Z-Y had nothing. Z's clubs 
would therefore have been a poor suit on which 



50 Nvillo-Auction 

to go rubber, because it meant five-odd for game. 
Z bid "a nullo"; A, "a no-trump"; Y, "two 
nullos"; and B, "three nullos," which I think 
was the most senseless bid I ever heard. He 
knew that both his adversaries had nullo-hands, 
and that his partner not only had a no-trumper 
but had shown a distinct unwillingness to play 
nullos. Also, he said, "three nullos, unassisted/' 
that forbidden thing! 

Of course, he didn't pull off his bid; he should 
have bid "three diamonds' ' on his six trumps to 
an honor, his side-ace, his blank suit, and his 
no-trump partner. 

The time to bid nullos high is when your 
partner has shown signs of life and when one 
(or both) of the adversaries is steadily bidding 
against them. Then, and then only, you may 
use them as forcers pure and simple, and bid 
them higher than you have any hope of making. 
The adversaries will not know of your inability, 
and will fear to play against nullos with such 
strong hands. That is your chance for forcing 
and defeating; take advantage of their nullo- 
nervousness. 



Nullo Bid, Raise, and Over-call 51 

A small or moderate nullo-loss is profitable 
in order to save rubber; it is better to forfeit 
rubber, however, than to lose seven or eight 
hundred at nullos, — or at anything else. 

When both adversaries are bidding no-trumps, 
you and your partner have a good nullo-chance ; 
both adverse hands hold general strength. 
When one adversary is bidding one suit, and the 
other another, again there is a nullo-opening 
for you and your partner. The high cards of 
two suits are held against you. When one ad- 
versary bids no-trump and the other calls him 
off, — beware of the latter as a nullo-adversary. 
He has a low hand, and probable singletons or 
blank suits. 

And now for my two warnings; first, regarding 
foolish bidding against nullos. Some hundreds 
of times in the past year, have I seen players 
bid suits, or no-trumps, up to three, four, five, 
and six, — without a particle of excuse except 
that they are frightened by adverse nullo-bids. 
They get doubled and lose anywhere from 400 
to 800; and always they comfort themselves 
with this balm: "Well, anyhow, I'm sure we 



52 N\illo-A\iction 

should have taken every trick if they had played 
nullos." 

Don't you believe it! It is astonishing how 
you can defeat a nullo-bid when you least expect 
it. A nullo grand slam is a pretty hard thing to 
achieve, — though, of course, it can be done. 
But even granting that they made that nullo 
grand slam against you, — even granting that it i 
was the rubber-game and they went rubber, — 
the rubber itself isn't as big as the loss you have 
just assumed by a foolish bid. If you have to 
take a big loss, it is always cheaper to take it on the 
adversary's bid than on your own. When the 
adversary is going to score anyhow, let him 
score on his own bid, not yours. If you play the 
hand, every trick you go down nets them 50 or 
100. If they play the hand, 10 is the most they 
can possibly make on a trick (unless doubled). 
That cross-line on the score-card is a ridiculous 
bugaboo. One hundred is ten times as much 
as ten, no matter where you write it. 

Lastly, never double nullos rashly. When the 
bid is very high, and circumstances lead you to 
doubt its genuineness, you may risk an occasional 



N\illo Did, Raise, and Over-call 53 

double. A moderate nullo-bid should never be 
doubled. You have your partner to consider. 
His hand may be high; even intermediate cards 
may all take. Small good will it do you to lose 
all the tricks in your own hand, if your partner 
takes them all in his. 

One of my readers in New Bedford has put 
this warning better than I have ever heard it put. 
He says: 

Dont forget that nullos are played with twenty- 
six cards, — not with thirteen. Be very wary of 
bidding them high on your own hand alone. 

And don't forget that nullos are ASSAILED 
with twenty-six cards, — not with thirteen. By 
doubling them on your own hand, you may be 
forced to watch your partner take every trick! 

I should never double a nullo-bid that was 
under four. Even at the double of a four-bid 
I should look askance. I have made "four 
nullos, " and seen them made, too often to doubt 
their possibility. 

Let the score be your guide to nullo-doubles. 
If the rubber is at stake, double adverse nullo- 
bids that you would not otherwise double (not 



54 N\illo-A\iction 

ones, or twos, or threes, however); when the 
adversary is obviously trying to "save rubber,' ' 
make it cost him more to do so than to close it. 
Double his desperation nullo-bid, — and, at the 
same time, double your own profits. But, even 
in such cases, don't lose sight of the fact that 
your partner's hand may kill yours. 

But be very wary of doubling any nullo-bids 
when the score makes no demands and rubber is 
not at stake. Then they are apt to be genuine, — 
particularly if both adversaries have contributed 
to their making. Nullo-slams, both great and 
small, are perfectly possible achievements. 



CHAPTER V 

THE DEUCE IN NULLOS 

What the ace is to no-trumps, the deuce is to 
nullos. The ace is the one sure t&ker; the deuce 
is the one sure loser. In no-trumps, if you hold 
the ace of a suit (whether as Declarant or as 
adversary) , — you * * command ' ' the suit , — and 
nothing would induce you to give up that com- 
mand too quickly; in nullos, if you hold the 
deuce of a suit (whether as Declarant or adver- 
sary), you equally "command" the suit. Again, 
you must be careful not to give up your command 
too early in the game. 

The deuce is of incalculable value to either 
side, at any point of the game; but it grows con- 
stantly more valuable as the game progresses. 
Particularly should a prospective nullo- Dummy 
be concerned regarding the deuce of any long 
suit he may chance to hold! 

55 



56 Nxjillo-Aviction 

In the hand of the Declarant, a very long suit 
is valuable, even if its lowest card is the trey, — 
or even the four; this is because the adversaries 
cannot see his hand. But the hand of the 
Dummy is exposed and at their mercy. Any 
long suit should run to the deuce, to be safe. 

Not long ago, I bid "a nullo" on this hand: 

£? J8642 
O Q10 5 32 

My partner raised me to "two," to "three," 
to "four," to "five," and to "six." I have 
since shown his hand to half a dozen players, 
and they all declared they would have done the 
same. This is what he held: 

9 53 

+ KQ 10 86543 

O 4 

4 52 

The only flaw in that hand was that it lacked 
the deuce of its long suit. Held up, by the 
Declarant, that flaw would make no difference; 



THe Device in N\illos 57 

the adversaries wouldn't know about it and 
couldn't hammer it. But exposed on the board, 
it was a terrible weakness. 

Of course, my partner had said to himself: 
"Both adversaries can't hold the deuce; if one 
plays the deuce the other will be forced to take 
the trick." Of course, again, there was the 
chance that I held the deuce. 

But I didn't. There were four clubs held 
against us — the ace, the jack, the nine, and the 
deuce. If those four were divided evenly be- 
tween the adversaries — two in each hand — they 
would block, and would not hurt me. If either 
adversary held the singleton deuce it could do 
no harm, because if he led it his partner would be 
forced to play the ace, jack, or nine, and to take 
the trick. 

But, as a matter of fact, one adversary held 
the singleton nine of clubs and the other held 
the ace — jack — deuce. I won my contract 
simply because the latter adversary did not 
play properly. The moment he saw Dummy 
he should have led thus : 

Two high hearts, to pull Dummy's hearts; 



58 N\illo-A\icTion 

one high diamond, to pull Dummy's diamond; 
two high spades, to pull Dummy's spades, and 
to exhaust his exit-cards. Then the ace of clubs, 
to hold the lead and to unblock clubs in his 
partner's hand; on this ace Dummy would 
naturally throw the king; the adversary should 
then lead the jack of clubs, Dummy throwing 
the ten. And the adversary should then lead 
the deuce and land Dummy with six unavoid- 
able tricks. I, myself, held nothing to frustrate 
this scheme, as all my cards were losers. Had 
the deuce been led early in the hand, Dummy 
could have gotten out with a side-card. Had 
it been led on the first club-round, the partner 
would have played his singleton nine, and the 
suit would have blocked. 

A long suit on the board should hold the deuce 
to be safe. 

Lacking the deuce and holding the ace, it 
should hold one strong side-card, and lacking 
both ace and deuce it should hold two strong 
side-cards. 

Suppose the hand just given (Dummy's, I 
mean) had been this : 



TTHe Device in Nullos 59 

ty A3 

4» AKQ 10 86543 

♦ » 

When the adversary had picked up the low 
diamond and club, — he would have started on 
hearts. I should have played the ace on the 
first round, and led high clubs, to hold the lead, 
and to pull the deuce. As I commanded the suit, 
no one could hinder me. The moment the 
dangerous deuce of clubs fell, I should have 
walked out of Dummy by leading the remaining 
low heart. 

But suppose Dummy's hand had been this: 

V A53 

4k KQ 10 86543 
4 

That hand lacks both ace and deuce of its 
long suit and has but one high side-card. The 
adversary would have pulled the diamond and 
spade, and started on hearts. Again, I should 
have come in on the first round, and led a high 



6o Nvillo- Auction 

club. He would have thrown his jack. I should 
have led another high club (because I wanted 
his deuce) ; he would have played the ace, pulled 
my two little hearts, and thrown me in with the 
deuce. I should have been at his mercy. The 
hand was unsafe because it was unguarded at 
both ends of its long suit, and held but one high 
side-card. 

But suppose Dummy held two strong side- 
cards, thus: 

£> AK3 

£ KQ 10 86543 

<0 4 

4* 

Then we would be safe, provided the bid was 
not higher than "three"; even at "four" our 
losses would have been slight. Dummy would 
lose the spade-round and the diamond-round; 
he would come in on the first heart-lead and lead 
clubs; if the ace took the round, he would come 
in again on the second heart-lead, lead the king 
of clubs to hold the lead, then another to pull 
the mischief-making deuce, and then he would 



THe Device in Nullos 61 

get out with the trey of hearts, having taken but 
four tricks. 

After working for hours over this and similar 
hands, I evolved this general rule, which can 
never fail: 

A long suit, exposed on the board, should hold 
its deuce. Lacking its deuce, but holding its ace, 
there should be one strong side-card in the hand. 
Lacking both deuce and ace of a -long exposed suit, 
the hand should hold two strong side-cards. These 
cards should be guarded once, at least, by a sure 
loser. 

That discovery was a bonanza! Players I 
have never seen have written me that it should 
be placed side by side with the immortal "Rule 
of Eleven/ ' And haven't we come a long way 
since the days when our idea of a blissful nullo- 
hand was a collection of cards that held nothing 
higher than an eight-spot? 

Remember that, in the closed hand, the deuce 
is not an absolute adjunct to a long suit; and 
that in neither hand is it an adjunct to a short 
suit. Simply to a long suit in a Dummy that 
holds no side-strength. 



62 N\illo--A\iction 

While a trey may often be a taker in nullos, 
and may mean much trouble for you (as De- 
clarant), a singleton trey is rarely a taker. It 
could take only in the case where one adversary 
held the deuce and the other adversary was blank 
in the suit. For him to be blank and for you to 
hold a singleton would mean twelve cards of that 
suit lying between your partner and the second 
adversary — an unusual occurrence. All these 
little points can be memorized, and will prove 
immense helps in teaching you to recognize a 
nullo-hand at a glance, to see its flaws, and to 
discriminate between a safe and an unsafe 
nullo-make. 

Don't you remember the days when you 
labored over your rules for a no-trump declara- 
tion? "Three aces and a guarded honor ;" 
"one ace and three guarded honors"; "a long 
suit and general strength"; "one long estab- 
lished black suit and a side-ace"; — oh, the hours 
I spent memorizing those formulas! And now, 
we never consciously remember them. We know 
a no-trumper at sight, — by its feel, by its look. 
Even so, will you recognize a nullo-hand and 



XKe Device in Nxxllos 63 

a nullo-assist, when once you are used to 
them. 

Your partner bids "a nullo," you pick up 
your hand, and it looks like this : 

£> 3 

4b KQ87654 

AK32 

You say to yourself: "I have a long suit that 
lacks its ace, its deuce, and even its trey. But I 
have two strong side-cards that will prevent the 
adversaries from exhausting my exit-cards before 
my partner can pull the two low clubs. Also, 
I have two singletons that promise discards/' 
You let the nullo stand, and you even raise it 
considerably, because you know the type of your 
hand. You recognize it as "safe. M 

But your partner bids nullos, and your hand 

looks like this : 

V 32 

4k KQ987654 

♦ ^3 
To a novice that would look like a better 



64 Nullo--A.\iction 

nullo-assist than the other; but you know better. 
You know that if one of the adversaries happens 
to hold a hand like this : 

9 KQ5 

4k A 10 3 

<> A8 7 6 

4 KJ10 

he can make trouble for your partner. He can 
pull your two hearts, your one diamond, your 
two spades; he can then lead the ace and ten of 
clubs, to unblock, and then his trey, and land 
Dummy with every other trick; and that, al- 
though he lacks the deuce of clubs. Your part- 
ner may hold that himself; it won't help him 
any if the adversary holds three to the trey and 
your lowest card is the four-spot. 

On a hand of that sort a safe player will never 
raise nullos; he will even over-call, once, with 
"two clubs.' ' Of course, there is the chance 
that the hand will go perfectly at nullos; but 
there is also the chance that it won't. It is the 
sort that is distinctly "unsafe"; knowing nullo 
types, you know that. You may choose to take 
the risk, but you won't do it ignorantly. 



THe Device in Nullos 



65 



To make a discovery like that is to know real 
pleasure. That deuce-rule can never fail. Out 
of some hundreds of hands that have helped me 
to make it, I am going to give you a couple. 

The first was sent me from the Anthracite 
Bridge Club, in Carbondale, Pa. It is a hand to 
which I shall devote some space, later in this 
book. On its original appearance, nullos did 
not enter into the bidding; I was asked if they 
should have done so : 





^? J973 

* 

8 

4k Q9876543 


9 A 10 8 6 
4k KQJ85 
<> J943 

* — 


Y 
A B 

Z 


9 KQ542 
4k 10 4 3 
KQ 
4k AKJ 




4k A 9 762 
A107 6 5 

4 10 2 


2 



The original hand was bid, and played, at 



66 N\illo--A.uction 

royals. But we will imagine it at nullos for 
our present purposes. 

Suppose Z opens nullos on a blank suit and all 
the rest of the deuces. Y will know himself to 
be an unsafe nullo-Dummy; he has a long suit 
unprotected at both ends (lacking both its ace 
and deuce) and no strong-side-cards with which 
to hold up the adversaries' schemes. His other 
suit (hearts) runs also to the trey and not the 
deuce. 

Y could declare nullos because his hand would 
not be seen. He could not be a safe nullo-Dummy ; 
he must over-call his partner's nullos with royals, 
on the first round. 

Z himself holds the deuce of spades, but not the 
deuce of hearts; and that is his undoing. 

If Z plays nullos, A's first lead is the nine, or 
the four, of diamonds, — preferably the former. 
Dummy gets rid of his eight. But the moment 
B sees Dummy he should play thus : 

The king of diamonds, unavoidably; his three 
spades, A discarding his highest three hearts and 
Dummy ducking. It wouldn't help him any to 
take the third round of spades; he would but 



THe Device in Nullos 



67 



go down one trick more. Then B should play 
his king of hearts (A throwing the six), and then 
his five-spot. After that, Dummy takes every 
trick. He cannot help himself. 
One more instance : 

9 — 



4* KQ9543 
A32 
4 A765 




9 A 10 8 7 



* 


10 8 





8765 


* 


KJ9 



^? QJ95 
4k AJ2 
J 10 9 
4k Q 10 8 

^7 K6432 
4^ 76 
X.Q4 
4 432 

Suppose you are playing nullos with this hand 
(you are Z, and Dummy has raised you twice; 
I should rather Y had said "clubs," with his 
two side-aces, but he didn't). 

The way you should play that hand would be 
to draw the only card you fear (the deuce of 
clubs) as soon as possible. And the way A 



68 Nullo-Axiction 

should play the hand is to withhold the card you 
want. Leaving Z out of the question, if A-B 
could force Y to duck two rounds of diamonds, 
three of spades, and two of clubs, A (coming 
into the lead with his ace, on the second club- 
round) would lead his remaining club, — the 
deuce, — and land Y with six inevitable tricks. 

A's best lead is the nine of hearts, because it 
is the only suit, save clubs, of which he holds a 
low card for later deadly use. His clubs he is 
saving. He could lead any of his top three hearts, 
except that the lead of the jack or queen might 
permit Z to throw the ten (it wouldn't, but A 
doesn't know that). The nine of hearts is a fair, 
stock lead, and we will suppose him to make it. 

Dummy goes down with a long suit that lacks 
its deuce but holds the two requisite high side- 
cards. With seven spades in the two hands, it is 
apparent that Z can duck three rounds and that 
the ace will probably never take ; it will be apt to 
be a thirteener, — or a discard. But let Z never 
dream of discarding Dummy's ace of diamonds; 
he has to take two diamond-rounds anyhow ; his 
own cards show that. Let him hold on to his 



XHe Deuce in N\illos 69 

high diamond in the long club-hand. If that 
tantalizing deuce of clubs be held up till the 
third round, Z cannot lead a third club-round 
from his own hand. He will need to get into 
Dummy with the diamond ace (on the second 
diamond-round, and when his own clubs are 
gone), pull that deuce of clubs, and walk out 
with the third diamond. 

"Get-outry" is as necessary to nullos as "re- 
entry" to no-trumps. "Exit-cards" are the 
most desirable things in the world ; and the surest 
exit-card is the deuce, — unless it happens to be a 
thirteener. Then, of course, it is as much a 
taker as is an ace. 



CHAPTER VI 

CORRECT OPENING NULLO-LEADS 

Of the various opening nullo-leads, the single- 
ton is the best. Any singleton (save the deuce 
and the trey) is better than any other possible 
lead; but a high or intermediate singleton makes 
a better opening lead than a low singleton 
because, — while the Declarant may be enabled 
to get rid of two dangerous cards on your lead, — 
you, yourself, will not wish you had it back, later 
in the hand. When you lead a high, or an inter- 
mediate, singleton you get rid of a card that 
cannot fail to be dangerous at any point of the 
hand, and you insure yourself of a discard on 
every subsequent round of the suit. When you 
lead a low singleton, you equally insure your 
discard, but you rob yourself of a card that may 
well prove more valuable later in the hand. I 
have already shown you how the value of low 

70 



Correct Opening Nxxllo-Leads 71 

cards is enhanced as the hand progresses; they 
may throw the lead to the Declarant after he is 
shorn of exit-cards; or they may prove most 
welcome exit-cards to an adversary who would 
otherwise be forced to take the balance of the 
tricks. These facts are true of the deuce and 
the trey alone. Any card higher than the trey 
can be ducked in two hands ; it therefore cannot 
be counted on as a sure means of throwing the 
Declarant in. 

The fact that it is a singleton is ample excuse 
for leading an ace, king, or queen. And it is 
one of the very few excuses for so doing. 

Doubleton leads do not appeal to me greatly, 
unless the second card is a sure loser, — a deuce 
or a trey. I played once against a man who 
insisted on doubleton leads; he led the ace of 
diamonds; I threw the king from one hand and 
the jack from the other (the king was the 
one card I had of which I was really afraid). 
He followed with the seven of diamonds; I 
ducked with a five in one hand and a four in the 
other. He took both rounds and never got his 
discard at all. His partner happened to hold 



^2 N\illo-.A\iction 

but the queen (which he threw on the ace), the 
six, and the trey. I held a long jack-deuce suit 
in one hand, and the king-four in the other. I 
got rid of them both. Had the leader held up 
the suit he might have gotten rid of one of his 
cards, and he could certainly have forced me to 
take with my king. 

The case is quite different when your second 
card is a sure loser. If you have no other better 
lead ill your hand, of course lead your doubleton 
ace-seven, or queen-eight. But they are not 
good nullo-leads. 

Holding a fair hand with which to assail nullos, 
and one poor suit (consisting of two or three 
high cards unguarded by any low ones), you are 
at liberty to lead those three high cards first, 
on the principle that they are takers anyhow, 
and that you would rather get rid of them early 
than be caught with them late. On this hand, 
for instance : 

y Q J 9 5 4 
4b K63 

4 AKQ 



Correct Opening N\illo-Leads 73 

you might correctly lead out those three spades. 
I do not care especially for this as an opening 
lead. Lead them, of course, while you still have 
exit-cards in your hand; don't get caught with 
three high hearts, a high club, and three high 
spades in your hand, — and nothing else. It is 
dreadful to get thrown in the lead with nothing 
but a handful of takers. But I have rarely seen 
a hand when much was gained by three such 
opening leads, and the Declarant's mind is al- 
ways tremendously relieved when he sees them. 
What pleases him, shouldn't please you. 

If you have no proper singleton or doubleton 
lead, an excellent opening lead is an intermediate 
card of a long mixed suit. Your partner may be 
short where you are long and may get valuable 
discards. If you hold this, for instance : 

AJ852 

lead your eight-spot. You will have two low 
cards for later use and low cards grow more and 
more valuable as the hand progresses; your ace 
will probably never take; and the Declarant can 
get rid of no very high cards on your eight, unless he 



74 Nullo-Aviction 

takes the trick. If he ducks, he may have to 
take your five on the second round (there are 
not many cards lower than the five, you hold one, 
he has already ducked once, and there are two 
other players to hold their share) ; and you may 
throw him in later with the deuce. 

The next-best lead is a low card from a series 
of low cards (not necessarily a sequence), 
always taking care to retain a card, or cards, 
lower than the one led. This is an invariable 
rule in original nullo-leads, except in cases of 
singletons. 

A king from king-trey-deuce, or an ace from 
ace-trey-deuce, is an obviously perfect lead. 

Later in the hand, internal leads of high cards 
are often advisable. They are made with the 
object of holding the lead while exhausting 
adverse exit-cards. But there should be some 
very good reason for a high opening lead. 

Now, I have told you that a singleton is the 
best possible first-lead, — and I have told you 
that deuces should be saved till the hand has 
somewhat progressed. Suppose your singleton 
is a deuce; what then? 






Correct Opening Nullo-Leads 75 

Don't lead it, if you have any other possible 
lead. It is a long chance if your partner doesn't 
block your singleton deuce, but there is the 
chance. 

Suppose your hand, against nullos, looks like 
this: 

£7 J65 
4» K87 

4 A J 10 8 64 

I should lead any suit, rather than the diamond; 
there are a number of possible leads in the hand. 
You would, of course, have been bidding your 
royals against the nullos. By leading an inter- 
mediate spade (the eight-spot) you might catch 
the Declarant short, in his own hand or in 
Dummy. He might hold, for instance, the nine- 
spot and one ducking card. He must either 
take your eight-spot and retain his ducker, or he 
must duck your eight-spot and take the next 
round with his nine. 

Again, that is a very open-looking hand. You 
are not apt to get caught badly at the end with 
nothing but takers. 



76 N\illo-A\iction 

There is one type of hand on which I should 
lead my singleton deuce, and that is a " stone- 
wall' ' hand, — a hand that is all takers, except for 
that deuce. Such a hand would be this: 

£> K J 10 8 
4k AKJ98 

That is a perfectly murderous combination 
with which to assail nullos. You need nothing 
so much as discards. By leading your diamond 
deuce, your partner will know it for a singleton; 
no one but an imbecile would lead a deuce, other- 
wise. He might take, and lead high diamonds to 
hold the lead and to give you the discards you 
demand. On three such leads, you could throw 
your spades; were his spades low or long you 
might never take a spade-round between you, — 
thanks to discard. 

An intensely interesting hand was sent me 
by a reader of The Times. A singleton deuce of 
clubs landed Dummy with a long string of tricks 
because, though the partner of the deuce-holder 
was originally burdened with four high clubs, he 



/ 

Correct Opening Nullo-Leads 77 

was able to get rid of them all in discard. Here 
is the hand : 



ty AKQJ8 

J95 
4 10865 



£? 107 5 2 

4k KQ 10 86543 

— 



9 



*2 




Y 




A 


B 


Z 





£ AJ97 

Q10 8 7 
4fc QJ97 



^7 Q^ 4 ^ 

* — 

A K 432 
4 AK43 

A had been bidding hearts, and Z had cap- 
tured the bid at nullos. A's first lead was for- 
tunately the eight of spades. Had he led his 
singleton deuce of clubs B would have taken and 
led three club-rounds, on which A could have 
discarded three high hearts; but then Z would 
also have been discarding high spades and dia- 
monds, and A could never have thrown Dummy 
in, later. Had A led his nine of diamonds it 



78 Nullo-Auction 

would have worked just as well as the spade 
eight except that Dummy would have got one 
discard. 

A led the eight of spades, and B played the 
seven, so as to leave A the lead ; he hoped A would 
lead high hearts in order to exhaust Dummy's 
exit-cards. His hopes were realized. A led four 
high hearts, on which B discarded all his clubs, 
and A then threw Dummy in with the club deuce. 

Z would certainly have taken the first spade- 
round and led clubs in order to pull the deuce, 
but that he had no clubs. He might have led his 
high diamonds and spades, discarding clubs in 
Dummy, but he would have been taking all the 
tricks anyhow. It is just as bad to take them 
in one hand as in the other. And he couldn't 
possibly pull that dangerous deuce. 

Of course, this is an unusual hand. If B had 
held two of Z's hearts, if Z had had just one club, 
if Y had held one taking card, outside his clubs, 
the thing couldn't have worked. But it only 
goes to show that there are cases in which a 
singleton deuce, held against a nullo-Dummy, 
may ruin the Declarant. 



Correct Opening Nullo-Leads 79 

And the hand puts still further emphasis on 
my law of the nullo-deuce. In this hand had Y 
held a side-ace, Z would have taken the first 
spade, gone into Dummy with the side-ace, 
pulled the deuce of clubs, and walked out with 
the deuce of hearts. 



CHAPTER VII 

THE PLAY OF THE NULLO-HAND 

By Declarant 

There are so many types of nullo-hands that 
it is impossible to give one hard-and-fast rule 
for their play, and to say "All nullo-hands should 
be played so, — or so." If that could be done, 
nullos would indeed be a marvel. 

Novices always ask me: " Should you play all 
your high cards first?" or " Should you play all 
your low cards first?" Until you see a hand, 
you cannot recognize its type and you cannot 
advise concerning it. 

All beginners skim off their low cards too 
early in the hand, — and seem afraid to take a 
single trick. Just so, all no-trump beginners 
skim off all their aces and kings, and seem 
afraid to lose a single trick. Gradually they learn 
that by losing early, they generally take more 

80 



THe Play of the Nxillo-Hand 81 

tricks later. And the nulloplayer learns that 
by taking early, he generally loses more tricks 
later. 

The next phase is apt to be unnecessary taking. 
Tricks are taken that should never be taken. 
Perfectly possible bids are defeated. 

The Declarant's first business, when Dummy 
goes down, is to count the sequences, or near- 
sequences, between the two hands, — beginning 
with the deuce and counting upwards. Let him 
look at each suit and count thus: " Deuce, trey 
(I lack the trey, but both adversaries cannot 
hold it), four, five, six (I lack the seven but 
from there up to the ten, my cards are in se- 
quence.") Then let him take stock thus: "In 
my best suit, I lack the seven and the trey; what 
can happen if those cards lie separately? What 
if they lie together? If they lie separately I shall 
not take a trick in the suit, provided I lead my 
six-spot. If they lie together, I am bound to 
take one trick; and, unless I pull that trey, I 
may take many more. M 

If the Declarant is afraid of any one card, he 
should get it. He should lead that suit till that 



82 N\illo- Auction 

card falls. This is particularly true of an adverse 
deuce that is provokingly held up. 

Lead high cards of a suit when it is desirable 
to hold the lead for several rounds in order to get 
a particular card. But, when there is no par- 
ticular object in holding the lead, lead low cards 
when you want low cards to fall. Just as you lead 
high cards, in no-trumps, when you want to get 
high cards, so, in nullos, do you lead low cards 
when you want to get low cards. 

Suppose your Dummy holds the jack-five-four- 
three of diamonds; the only diamonds against 
you are the eight and deuce, and you know them 
to be in the same hand. You must get that 
deuce, for fear it will throw you in, later, when 
your cards are all "thirteeners" and you cannot 
get out. But it would be senseless to lead the 
jack, in order to pull the deuce; your adversary 
would but get rid of his eight, on the jack, and 
you would take two rounds of the suit. Lead 
your trey, — that is a great coaxer; an unwise 
adversary will throw the deuce that you want. 
A wise one will hold it up till the next round but, 
even so, you take but one trick instead of two. 



THe Play of the Nvillo-Hand 83 

Play touching cards from the two hands. If you 
play a ten from Dummy, and a nine from your 
own hand, no one can get in between them. The 
adversaries have either to take the trick or to 
use up two good duckers. If, on the contrary, 
you play a jack from one hand and a nine from 
the other, one adversary can play a "between- 
card" (the ten), and the other can duck. Only 
one ducker drawn instead of two, — and the 
throw of a very embarrassing card, — all because 
your cards didn't touch. 

Sequence-holding, sequence-count, and se- 
quence-play are the great nullo secrets. 

Don't be in too great a hurry to take adverse 
intermediate cards. Suppose an eight is led, 
and you hold but the ten and the six. Don't 
cover that eight with your ten, on the principle 
that it "has to take anyhow, and may as well do 
it first as last." By playing your six, you lose 
one round and take one; by playing your ten, 
you will probably take both rounds; you will 
take the eight with your ten ; the next lead may 
be a four or a five, — and you will take again 
with your six. 



84 Nvillo- Auction 

Senseless taking is as bad as senseless ducking. 
Have a reason for everything you do. 

Never forget a card ; never speak while play- 
ing a nullo-hand; you simply cannot afford to. 
Never forget to notice just what cards are held 
against you and to calculate what can happen if 
they are together — or separated. 

A good nullo-plan for both Declarant and 
adversary is " middle play." When you don't 
know what to do, play a " middle' ' card (one 
that leaves you with both higher and lower cards) 
and you will be apt to be right. 

The Declarant should keep all of Dummy's 
suits guarded as long as possible; he should 
always be glad to "duck" a dangerous card like 
the nine or the jack — when played by the adver- 
sary — particularly if he can get rid of a card like 
the eight or the ten and still keep a guard in the 
suit. 

The Declarant should generally do most of his 
necessary taking early in the hand, but he should 
not regard all aces and kings as necessary takers. 
If they are sufficiently well guarded they will 
never take. 



THe Play of the N\illo-Hand 85 

If the Declarant should find himself "up 
against it" with an impossible nullo-hand, — a 
hand that admits of no skill or finesse, — he 
should simply duck as often as possible. Every 
duck saves him fifty, or a hundred. 

The discard in nullos calls for great acumen. 
You should always discard your most dangerous 
card, — but that isn't necessarily your highest. It 
is often necessary to hold on to an ace and to 
discard an eight or a seven. 

A cross-discard is as valuable in nullos as is a 
cross-ruff in any declared trump ; but you can- 
not work it quite as successfully because you 
would have to continue to take tricks in order to 
lead a suit from one hand, discard on it from the 
other, — and then reverse the process. Simply, 
your cross-discard hampers the adversary hor- 
ribly in his play (there are two suits he doesn't 
want to lead), and gives you wonderful chances 
to get rid of embarrassing cards. 

When the adversaries are the ones to hold a 
cross-discard, the Declarant is the one to be 
hampered. No one wants to give his adversary 
valuable discards, if he can avoid it. I played a 



86 N\illo-A\iction 

maddening nullo-hand, the other day: each of 
my adversaries held a singleton, and was ready 
to discard on the second round of a suit. I had 
been congratulating myself on the unusual make- 
up of my own hand, consisting, as it did, of a 
blank suit, a singleton, and two six-card suits, 
one of which ran to the jack, and the other to 
the king. 

Unfortunately one such hand on a deal is 
nearly sure to mean four unusual hands. My 
adversaries were as eager for discards as I. The 
only way to prevent them from discarding was 
to lead the two suits they both held; and the 
only way to continue to do that was to hold the 
lead for several rounds. By following that 
method, I threw them in, just after I had taken 
the last trick I dared take. Then they began 
to lead, and I began to discard; even though 
they discarded on each other's suits, it did me 
no harm, for they took all the remaining tricks. 

Here is a situation which often causes trouble : 
Z is playing three nullos. He has taken two 
tricks and can afford to take two more, and make 
his bid, or one more, and go game (it is a clean 



The Play of the Nvillo-Hand 87 

score). He knows the heart situation from the 
cards that have fallen. He knows that one 
adversary holds no more hearts and that the 
other adversary (A) holds the queen and eight 
of hearts, those being the only unplayed hearts 
that Z himself lacks. Eight rounds have been 
played, six of which have gone to the adversaries 
and two to Z. Each player holds five cards, and 
Z wants to take but one more trick. He must 
lead, and his five remaining cards are these : 

ty KJ107 

* — 
A 

* — 



The ace of diamonds is a thirteener and 
Dummy is perfectly harmless. 

A holds the queen and eight of hearts, and his 
other three cards are all high and all takers. 

Z must positively lead the jack or ten of hearts, 
then he is safe, whether A ducks or not. He 
would be equally safe in leading the king, because 
A would throw the queen; Z would follow the 
lead with the seven, forcing A to take with the 



88 Nvxllo- Auction 

eight and also to take every other trick. But it 
would be senseless to give A the chance to throw 
the queen when, by some fluke, it might be made 
to take. 

When Z leads the jack, or ten, A should duck, 
for it means one trick less for him. If he takes 
that trick he will take them all. After he ducks, 
Z leads the seven and A takes the balance. 

I have seen players in Z's position lead the 
seven-spot. They apparently hope that A will 
take the seven with the eight and the jack with 
the queen, thus taking all the heart-rounds. No 
A would do that. He would take the seven with 
the queen, lead his eight, and Z (being shorn of 
duckers) would take the last four rounds, six in 
all, defeat for his bid, and a very pretty game 
thrown away. 

It is not always policy to throw a high card 
and to keep a low one. Particularly in those 
cases where one of the Declarant's hands is dan- 
gerous and the other is harmless, it is nearly 
always desirable to keep a high card in the harm- 
less hand. In proof of this, let me show you a 
wonderful eight-card nullo-problem sent me by 



The Play of the Nullo-Hand 89 



one of the readers of The Times, who signed 
himself "A. F." 





K? J? 




\ 


* 






AJ65 






i Q4 




V 108 65 


Y 


tf 


* — 


A B 


4k 8765 


10 7 




KQ2 


4 85 


Z 


♦ « 




<?2 






$ 42 






943 






A 62 





Z is playing "five nullos," on almost impos- 
sible five-nullo material. He was the victim of 
his partner's bidding, that partner having raised 
the bid to "three," to "four," to "five." 
Thanks to extremely clever playing, "A. F." 
made his bid. He has lost the first four rounds, 
and has just taken the fifth in his own hand. He 
must therefore lead, and may take but one more 
trick. 

Permit me to point out that if "A. F." had 



90 N\jllo-A\iction 

played nullos as half the world plays them he 
would never have made five. He would have 
gone on the principle that "as high cards must 
take anyhow, they may as well do it first as 
last." He would have taken with the queen of 
spades, probably with the jack of hearts; he 
might have led his ace of diamonds, throwing his 
nine, and permitting B to throw king and A the 
ten. He would have taken another diamond- 
round later. 

Just look, I pray you, at all the high cards that 
lay exposed in that Dummy, and that never took 
tricks — thanks to the skill of the man who played Z . 

Z leads a club, discarding Dummy's jack of 
hearts, and forcing the trick on B. B's best lead 
is another club, even though it gives Dummy 
another discard. It will exhaust Z's clubs, and 
prevent his throwing B in later in the hand. 
On this second club-lead Dummy must discard 
the heart seven, in order to unblock hearts for 
Z's deuce, and prepare the way for a spade dis- 
card when hearts are led. (The queen of spades 
is a much higher card than the seven of hearts, 
but it would make a fatal discard.) 



The Play of tKe N\xllo-Hand 91 

B still holds the lead. He leads his singleton 
spade, Z ducking in both hands. B's next aim is 
to unblock diamonds, so as to throw Dummy in, 
at the end of the hand. To that end, he leads 
his king. Any nullo amateur, in Z's place, 
would throw the nine, because it is his highest 
card. This Z doesn't. He holds up his nine, 
because when he gets caught on the third diamond- 
round he would rather be caught in his own hand 
than in Dummy. If he lets Dummy take the 
last diamond-round, Dummy will also take every 
remaining trick, five in all — a defeat of three 
tricks (300 points) for Z. 

Z holds up his nine of diamonds, throwing his 
own four and Dummy's jack onto B's king. B 
takes the round. B leads the queen of diamonds, 
Z throwing his own trey and Dummy's six. B 
takes the round. 

B leads the deuce of diamonds. Z takes with 
his own nine, throwing Dummy's five. He 
then leads the deuce of hearts. A is forced to 
take, because Z has already discarded Dummy's 
seven. Z throws Dummy's queen of spades on 
the heart-round, and never takes another trick. 



92 N\illo-i\\iction 

I pray you to remember this lesson: With 
a dangerous Dummy, unblock the suits, so as to 
take the final round in the low hand. Retain a 
taking card in the hand that holds "exit" cards 
rather than in the hand that does not. This 
is not a trumped-up trick-hand. It actually 
happened and was actually played in this 
manner by the original Z the first time he ever 
saw it. 

I shall use this hand again, later in the chapter, 
to teach another lesson to the nullo-adversary. 
Our present business is with the Declarant. 

It will often pay the Declarant better to let 
an unpleasant suit come up to him, than to lead 
it out. Here is a hand in which I was Z; the 
score was 28 = all, on the rubber-game: 



The Play of the Nullo-Hand 93 





V 


8542 




1 


* 


A4 









J 10 8 5 3 






4 


53 




^? akio6 




Y 


9 J73 


+ J96 


A 


B 


cfr K85 


A7 






K96 


4 KQ107 




Z 


4 AJ98 




V 


Q9 




< 


* 


Q 10 7 3 2 




1 





Q42 






* 


642 





I opened with "a nullo, ,, and A said "a no- 
trump"; Y, "twonullos";B, "three no-trumps." 
The two suits were bid against each other until 
I was left to play "five nullos." That meant I 
might take but two tricks and A-B stopped 
bidding because they thought I would never 
make it. 

A led the ace of diamonds, Dummy went 
down, and I began to count sequences. In 
diamonds I held deuce-trey-four-five, and then a 
jump to the eight. Whether or not the six and 
seven were in different hands, my diamonds were 



94 Nullo-Auction. 

safe. Hearts, of course, were bad in my own 
hand, and I determined not to touch them. Had 
they been bad in both hands, — had I held ace 
in one hand and king in the other, — I should 
have played them out as soon as I was in the 
lead, and should have gotten rid of two bad cards 
at once; but Dummy's hearts were good while 
mine were short and poor; I determined not to 
tamper with them. My spades were wonderful, 
I had the lowest five. And, while my long clubs 
held low cards, it was apparent I must take one 
round. Dummy's four, however, need never 
take, because I held both trey and deuce myself 
(an exposed four can sometimes do great harm) . 
I must take with the club ace, and then I might 
safely take one heart-round, but not two. 

On A's ace of diamonds, Y threw the jack, B 
the king, and I, the queen. A led the seven of 
diamonds, Y and I ducking, and B over-taking 
with the nine. B led the six, to give his partner 
the desired discard; A had so many cards he 
wanted to discard, he could hardly choose 
amongst them. However, his choice of the ace 
of hearts gave me this idea: A had high hearts; 



TKe Play of the N\illo-Hand 95 

if I could make him play hearts ahead of me, I 
might get rid of my nine- spot; if, on the contrary , / 
played hearts ahead of A, I should probably be 
defeated by one trick: It became my immediate 
object to throw A into the lead; he would lead 
up to me, while B would lead through me. 

After B took the third diamond-round, he led 
his king of clubs, — up to Dummy's ace. (In 
nullos, you lead up to strength, where in other 
suits you lead up to weakness.) I threw my 
queen, A threw his jack, and I took with 
Dummy's ace. I wouldn't lead hearts up to A; 
I could lead spades or clubs with safety. If I 
led the spade, B would hardly play his ace, — 
he would be too much afraid of my throwing a 
big card. If he played any other spade, A would 
undoubtedly over-take the trick, because it was 
his partner's, anyhow. If I led Dummy's club, 
A would follow the same plan, — he would over- 
take the trick that was already his partner's. 

Then what could A lead? If he led spades, I 
ducked everything in both hands and got a third- 
round discard in Dummy. He had no diamonds, 
and he hated to lead a club and give Dummy a 



96 N\illo-A\Jction 

discard. He went to his doom with a heart- 
lead, and I made my contract. 

If A led the six of hearts, I could take with the 
queen and return the nine. If he led any other 
heart, I could throw my nine. In any case, I 
was safe, with but one round. 

Either a club or a spade would have been a 
better lead from A, — even though Dummy dis- 
carded. B could have over-taken either black 
suit, and by leading a heart through me (A 
playing after me) could have defeated me by 
one trick. It is on such slender threads that the 
fate of nullo-hands sometimes hangs. That is 
what makes them so fascinating ; sometimes they 
are obvious, but far more frequently they are 
subtle to the last degree. 

Fcr the Adversary 

The adversary's play against a nullo should be 
guided by Dummy, by his partner's signals and 
discards, and by his own hand. He should rarely 
lose an opportunity to give his partner a discard 
for which he has asked. Even when the Declar- 
ant gets a discard on the same suit, if the part- 



The Play of the Nullo-Hand 97 

ner plays after the Declarant, the discard is still 
valuable. Sometimes it is valuable anyhow. 

Unblocking is a great secret for the adversary, 
— playing his suits downwards. Beginning in 
the middle (if [the suit is long) and playing 
backwards is a good general method. 

If an adversary holds a bad suit, with but one 
ducker, it is generally better to save that ducker 
for the last. Holding ace-king-four of any suit, 
and seeing that suit led by partner or Declarant, 
it is the best plan to save the low card, nine 
cases out of ten. 

The adversaries should avoid giving Dummy a 
discard or establishing a discard for Dummy by 
leading up to a singleton. If Dummy holds a 
singleton king and no blank suit on which to 
discard it, don't be in too much of a hurry 
to lead up to that king. It can always be made 
to take. Suppose Dummy holds this: 

V A5432 
4» K 

O 10 5 3 

4 j 10 9 2 

Don't be too anxious to lead up to that king 



98 N\illo-A\iction 

of clubs ; it cannot be discarded and will always 
take. Hammer those spades first and then the 
king of clubs. If you take out the king first the 
Declarant can lead little clubs from his own hand 
and get rid of some of those deadly spades. 

The adversaries should notice what suit the 
Declarant fears, and should lead that suit to 
him. Signs of fear are discard and avoidance. 
In the former case (discard), either adversary 
may lead the suit ; in the latter case (avoidance) , 
the suit is preferably led by the adversary who 
can lead through the Declarant. The Declarant 
should not be permitted to play last, on a suit which 
he is palpably avoiding. 

A good easy point for adversaries to remember 
is that so many ducks will defeat the bid. If the 
Declarant is playing four nullos, he can afford to 
take but three tricks. // both adversaries can 
duck four rounds, they can defeat him. And so 
on with other bids. This is a primitive sort of 
rule, but a very useful one. 

And now I will show you something far from 
primitive, by reverting to the eight-card problem 
which we discussed earlier in the chapter. You 



The Play of tKe Nullo-Hand 99 



remember, Z was playing "five nullos, " with a 
very unpleasant Dummy. Z has lost four rounds, 
and has just taken the fifth in his own hand. He 
must therefore lead, and the cards lie thus : 




£> 108 6 5 

* — 
10 7 
4 85 

2 

943 
4k 62 

Z leads a club, throwing Dummy's highest 
heart, and forces the trick on B. B hates to 
lead another club and give Dummy another 
discard; but it is his best lead because he must 
exhaust Z's clubs. Otherwise, Z can throw him 
in, later in the hand (after his diamonds are 
gone), by a club-lead, and force him to take every 
remaining trick. 



ioo N\illo--/\\iction 

B therefore leads his club, and Dummy dis- 
cards the seven of hearts. B leads his spade, 
which Z ducks in both hands. B sees Dummy 
with nothing but the queen of spades and the 
ace-jack-six-five of diamonds. That looks like a 
wonderful chance. B leads diamond king, — 
Z throwing his own four and Dummy's jack; 
B leads queen, and Z throws his three and 
Dummy's six. Now, before, we took it for 
granted that B would lead his deuce, in his effort 
to throw Dummy in. Most players would. 
But there is a very subtle way in which B can 
match Z's cleverness and force him to take three 
tricks instead of two, — thus putting him down 
one. 

Let him refrain from leading the deuce of 
diamonds, for just one round. Let him lead a 
club, in order to give his partner a discard after Z 
has discarded. Did A discard before Z, the 
latter could still win, as he would then have the 
tremendous advantage of modeling his discard 
upon his adversary's. As it is, that advantage is 
A's, not Z's. The cards now lie thus: 



TKe Play of the Nullo-Hand 101 



9 65 

* — 

— 



9 




* 




A5 




♦ Q 




Y 


9 — 


A B 


4» 65 




2 


Z 


* — 


9 2 




* 




9 




♦ * 





And Z should take but one trick. 

B leads the club, and Z must discard, not the 
diamond, for that would mean that Dummy 
would take the last two rounds. If Z discards 
his heart, A will throw his spade, so that Z can 
never put him in. If Z discards his spade, A 
will discard one of his hearts, and the other will 
immediately fall on the deuce of diamonds, which 
B will promptly lead. However it is played, 
Z will take two of the last three rounds, provided 
B leads a club before he leads the diamond deuce. 

It is the old question of discard, so infinitely 



102 N\illo-A\*ction 

more subtle and vital in nullos than in any other 
suit. And it is the equally old coup of forcing 
the other man to discard ahead of you, in order 
to fit your discard to his. 

"Get out and get under," is the great nullo 
war-cry for both Declarant and adversary. But 
"getting out" is ten times as necessary as 
"getting under." I have seen hundreds of 
hands ruined because all the players were so 
crazy to "get under" they quite forgot the later 
necessity for "getting out. " They got under so 
many of the early tricks that, along toward the 
middle of the hand, they found they had no way 
to get out. They were left in the lead, with 
every card a taker. 

I will give you a few actual nullo hands, to 
emphasize the maxims laid down in the preced- 
ing chapters. 



The Play of tKe Nullo-Hand 103 





£? K Q 10 5 2 
+ 7 

4 AQJ10 




ty J3 

+ KQJ5 
A10853 
4 82 


Y 
A B 

Z 


64 

4k 1098432 

9762 

*3 




9 A987 
4k A6 

K 

4b K97654 


1 



In the original hand Z opened with "a no- 
trump"; I should have preferred "a royal." 
His side-aces are as useful for royals as for 
no-trumps; his spades are poor, but long, 
and would be much better for trumps 
than at no-trumps. However, he chose the 
latter. 

A passed, Y over-called with "two royals" on 
his honors, and B said " three nullos. " This is 
against the rule; you shouldn't say three nullos 
unassisted. However, B was fighting for the 
rubber; one of his adversaries was bidding the 



104 Nullo-Auction 

highest of all the suits and the other the next-to- 
highest. 

Z switched to royals and A gave his partner 
one nullo-raise because he had every suit guarded. 
B finally got the bid at "five nullos." Z-Y 
could have outbid this in royals, but they could 
not see each other's hands, and they hoped to 
beat the nullos. Each had a long suit, a single- 
ton, and some low cards. 

Z led his singleton diamond, everyone ducking 
with as high a card as possible. The moment 
Dummy went down, B's wonderful club and 
diamond sequences promised him victory. Those 
sequences are all that save the hand. He 
expected to take with the spade eight, but Y 
saved him. 

In Z's place many players would next have 
led the ace of clubs and then the six. It would 
have been a singularly fortunate lead for B ; he 
could have made a small slam with no trouble 
and no worry. 

The real Z led the nine of hearts, through 
Dummy's jack. B played the jack, on the 
principle of keeping Dummy's suits guarded as 



The Play of tKe N\illo-Hand 105 

long as possible. Y had his choice of taking the 
trick in order to lead two diamonds and give his 
partner two discards, — or of playing the ten of 
hearts. He wisely chose the latter course. 

B led clubs twice, — knowing someone must 
soon take with the ace. He took but two tricks, 
— the heart-round and one club-round. 

Had Y over-taken the heart jack, and led his 
two diamonds (jack first), Z would have gotten 
two discards, — either both his clubs, or both his 
aces. In spite of this, B would have made a 
slam. As soon as Z's club (or clubs) fell in dis- 
card, B would have known the seven of clubs 
to be a taker and would have ducked it with his 
five. 

Here is a peculiar hand sent me by a reader of 
The Times: 



106 



N\illo--/\\iction 





* 



4> 


9753 

KQJ97542 

4 


9 J 10 6 4 

4> AQJ3 

8 

4 6532 


A 


Y 

B 

Z 


9k 

£ K 10 8 7 6 

A 

4k AKQJ107 






AQ82 
9542 
10 6 3 
98 





It was the rubber-game, and A-B were 20 — o. 
The correspondent who sent me the hand was 
playing "Y" and bid very correctly. 

Z opened with "a nullo"; his hand, I suppose* 
is a possible nullo, but not a good one. The clubs 
are good for nullos, the spades and hearts bad, 
and the diamonds indifferent, but they may land 
two tricks. I should be more apt to say "a 
spade" on that hand than "a nullo," and I 
never should say "two nullos." A and Y have 
good nullo-hands, but A's partner would prove 
his death. 



TKe Play of tKe N\illo-Hand 107 

Z said " a nullo " ; A and Ypassed ; B, " a royal" ; 
Z, "two nullos"; A, "two royals"; Y, "three 
nullos"; B, " three royals"; Z, " four nullos " ; A, 
"double"; Y, "redouble"; B, " four royals " ; Z, 
"pass"; A, "pass"; Y, "five nullos"; B, "five 
royals"; Z and A, "pass"; Y, "six nullos"; B, 
"double." Closed. 

I don't like A's double of "four nullos." With 
both adversaries bidding nullos and a good nullo- 
hand himself, A might know that his partner 
must hold high cards and would get in his way. 

I don't like Y's redouble ; he risked sending B 
back to royals, which is just what he did do. If 
Z had played four nullos doubled he would have 
scored: six tricks at 16 each, 96; 30 for minus 
aces; 50 for bonus; 20 for slam; 50 each for two 
extra tricks, and 250 for rubber — a total of 546, 
and quite enough for one hand. 

And I greatly dislike B's final double of "six 
nullos." How could B double any nullo-bid? 
His cards look as though he must take almost 
every round. And, as a matter of fact, he and 
his partner did take every round but one. Z 
took one spade-trick with his nine-spot. 



io8 



Nvillo-Aviction 



A-B could have made a small slam in royals, 
with 80 honors and 250 for rubber — a total of 
404; quite an opportunity lost. 

This all serves to show, however, what won- 
derful forcers nullos are. They are not played 
so often as they are bid, and when they enter into 
the bidding it is apt, legitimately, to run very 
high. We used to have some exciting hands and 
a large proportion of flat and uninteresting ones. 
In these nullo-days there are interest and excite- 
ment in nearly all hands. 

Nullos are also wonderful rubber-savers, as 
witness : 

V A2 
cfr A95 
QJ842 
jfc J98 



£> 107 5 3 
£ QJ8764 
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Y 
A B 

Z 


4» 10 3 2 

93 

4 A 107 6 43 




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4> K 

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4 KQ5 





The Play of tKe Nullo-Hand 109 

Original bidding ran: Z, "a no-trump"; A> 
"two nullos"; Y, "two no-trumps"; B, "three 
nullos"; Z, "three no-trumps"; A, "four nul- 
los"; Y, "four no-trumps"; B and Z, "pass M ; 
A, "five nullos"; closed. 

B's nullo-raise was illegitimate, because he 
had an unprotected suit — hearts. Also, his 
long suit ran to the trey instead of the deuce, 
but his heart reentry equalized that. The raise 
was legitimatized by the state of the score and 
by the fact that both adversaries held no- 
trumpers. In nullos, as in everything else, you 
bid to the score and are influenced by informa- 
tion received. 

By rare good play A took but three tricks. 
He lost 50, minus 30 aces, a total of 20 points, 
and had another even chance at the rubber. 
Failing nullos, Z-Y would have made four no- 
trumps, 40, plus 30 aces, plus 250 for rubber, a 
total of 320 points. The nullo-bid saved A-B 
300 points plus another chance. 

The lead was the eight of diamonds. A, 
realizing Dummy's danger with those long 
spades exposed, put up the nine, at once. He 



no N\illo- Auction 

led the king of hearts, hoping to take, and to 
lead the jack, thus getting rid of Dummy's re- 
entry. Y was too clever for him and played his 
heart ace on the first round. He then started 
to establish Dummy's spades, hoping to take 
three rounds, pull Dummy's little diamond, and 
then throw him in with a heart. That would 
give B three spade-rounds, a diamond-round, 
and a heart-round. 

A frustrated this scheme by putting up 
Dummy's ace of spades at once, leading the 
jack of hearts, and then walking out of Dummy 
with a little spade. No one could make him 
take another trick. 

I have said that on an impossible nullo-hand, 
the only thing to do is to duck as often as 
possible. Take this hand in proof: 



TKe Play of the Nullo-Hand 1 1 1 





9 10 9 6 
4b KQJ8 
10 9 8 
4 QJ10 




9 Q8 

fjk A97 
KQ52 
4 9875 


Y 

A B 
Z 


<$ KJ754 
4k 104 
J76 
4b A64 


< 


^? A32 
4k 6532 
A43 
4b K32 





Z's hand was sent me, asking his proper bid. 
I said "one nullo, but never two, M because it is 
too low and too even. 

Look at that cruel Dummy with never a low 
card in it and not a take-out bid ! It was a case 
of hard luck, because, had Y held either A's hand, 
or B's, he would have been much better off. 
Simply, not one desirable card went to him. 
Y'shandisa perfect" one spade" hand, which 
is another proof that "a spade" and "a 
nullo" will not pull well together, in double 
harness. 



112 Nxillo- Auction 

Actual bidding ran: Z, "a nullo"; A and Y, 
"no"; B, "a heart"; Z, " t wo nullos"; closed. 

Z lost 250 which was 50 too much. The first 
lead was the queen of hearts, which Z ducked, 
properly, in both hands. On the next lead 
(another heart), he made the mistake of playing 
his own ace and Dummy's ten. In that way, he 
took again with the six; he got two rounds and 
one duck, instead of two ducks and one round. 

Granting that Z's second nullo-bid was wrong, 
and that an experienced nullo-player would not 
have made it, two hundred is not an unheard-of 
loss! I have seen that equaled and surpassed 
in the positive suits, many a time, — haven't 
you? 



it 



Here is a hand in which I was playing "Z 
and the score was 24 — o against us, on the 
rubber-game: 



THe Play of tHe Nullo-Hand 113 





9 J9 82 
* AQJ 

K72 

4 K63 




^? AKQ3 
* 

J865 
4 1097 5 


Y 

A B 
Z 


tf 75 

4b K10 6 4 

4 AQ82 


i 


9 10 6 4 
£ 98752 
AQ10 
* J4 





I opened with "a nullo. " A liked the bid 
and passed. Y passed. B passed and closed 
the bidding. 

I am going to show you how the hand was 
played, — not how it should have been. 

A led his singleton, which was not a particu- 
larly good choice. A high singleton is always 
good ; you get your discards and you never wish 
you had the card back. With a singleton deuce 
or trey, you equally get your discards, but you 
are apt to want your little card later. And A 
had other possible leads; he might have led a 



H4 N\xllo- Auction 

middle diamond or middle spade. His need of 
heart discards, however, quite excused his choice. 
It would not have helped him, at all, to lead his 
worst suit (hearts), in order to get rid of them. 
That plan is occasionally — but rarely — ad- 
vantageous. 

The moment I saw his trey, I knew it for a 
singleton. Except in singleton leads, a player 
always retains at least one card lower than that 
led; and I had the club-deuce, myself. 

Dummy went down, and his clubs killed my 
best suit; our diamonds, too, were awful. A 
evidently didn't want diamond discards , because 
I held all the high ones. He must want to dis- 
card hearts or spades, — and it was not for me 
to oblige him by club-leads; that was his part- 
ner's business. 

I put up Dummy's ace in order to keep B 
from coming in and giving A his discards. I 
could read B's clubs now, and knew there was 
no hope of making his king take. He threw it 
on my ace. 

I wanted to embarrass A by leading his worst 
suit, and I had to choose between hearts and 



The Play of the Nvillo-Hand 115 

spades. I determined on hearts, because I 
held all the middle ones as well as the deuce; 
someone must hold the high ones. I led Dummy's 
jack and threw my ten, because they " touched. " 
A took. His desire was to throw his partner in. 
He led the six of diamonds, I played king and 
queen, and B threw the nine. I led a heart which 
A took (I had found his weak spot). He led 
a spade, — still trying to put his partner in; I 
played Dummy's king, and B could not resist the 
impulse to throw his queen, — while I threw the 
jack. I led another heart, and B discarded 
the ace of spades. Now the story was told; 
B could never get in! He had discarded all his 
high spades, I held all the high clubs and dia- 
monds, and A held the hearts. AndB was the only 
person I feared because he, alone, could lead clubs. 

A ducked this heart-round, and I led another, 
discarding a diamond in my own hand. A took 
and led a diamond, which I took; I led a spade, 
(A ducking), Dummy took and led another 
spade, and A was forced to take the balance of 
the tricks. I was safe with my one-odd nullo. 

You see it was neither necessary nor correct 



n6 



N\illo- Auction 



for me to lead those high clubs because "they 
must take anyhow." With proper care, they 
never took. A's lead and B's discards were my 
sign-posts. 

Here is another actual hand. Z-Y were 28-0 
on the rubber-game; Z bid a spade, A said "a 
no-trump"; Y, "two clubs" andB, "twonullos." 
He knew that his partner's no-trumper might 
fit a nullo, and that his adversary's spade would 
not fit a nullo. Take it for a practice-hand, use 
all the rules I have given you, and just see what 
a beautiful time you will have (you are B) : 



I 

1 

< 


S? Q10 4 

£ A10 7 65 
6 A 10 8 5 


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4* AJ92 


Y 

A B 

Z 


C? 9762 

* 

K6432 
4k 8743 


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fy J53 
* QJ8 
J97 
4 KQ65 





The Play of the Nullo-Hand 117 



One more instance 





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K J 10 7 4 






♦ 


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Z 


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963 









Q85 






♦ 


A32 





Z is playing nullos with a dangerous Dummy. 
A leads ace of diamonds; Z wws/ keep a taking 
diamond in his own hand. He wants to take the 
last diamond-round in his hand, rather than in 
Dummy. 

A would lead another diamond, or assail the 
hearts or the clubs; the clubs look rather better 
in Dummy. He leads his seven. B takes the 
trick, in order to save his one low club. He can 
lead his remaining diamond, his ace of clubs (to 
unblock), or his five of spades, — to hit Dummy. 



n8 Nmllo- Auction 

The spade would suit Z; he would put up his 
ace and Dummy's jack, — his plan being to lead 
the suit again, and to get a club-discard in 
Dummy on a third spade-round. Since this 
pleases Z so well, let us suppose that B unblocks 
the clubs, by leading his ace, and then his five, — 
in that way Dummy gets no club-discards. 

Or, still better, B himself might get such a 
discard. Let him lead his little diamond in that 
hope. He takes the trick. His next lead would 
be the five of spades. 

Z takes in both hands (A throwing king) , and 
leads the suit again. A takes and leads the 
diamond, — B discarding his club ace. 

Z takes with his queen (or eight) , and leads a 
spade to give Dummy a club-discard. A takes. 

If A leads a club, Dummy takes and leads 
the jack of hearts. B, knowing nothing of the 
suit, would probably duck; so would everyone. 
Dummy leads heart-ten; the adversaries duck, 
— and Z never takes another trick. A's deuce of 
hearts is powerless, because B blocks the suit. 
Z makes two-odd nullos; against a less clever, 
though perfectly correct, defense, he makes 



The Play of the N\illo-Hand 1 19 

three-odd. Against still another defense (though 
a different one), he makes his two-odd again. 
And that with one of the worst dummies I have 
ever seen. The holding up of the taking dia- 
mond in his own hand is Z's coup d'etat. 

The best possible way to learn to play nullos 
(barring lessons from a teacher or practice with 
experts) is this: sit down to a game of Auction 
and play all the old suits in the usual manner. 
But the moment a nullo-bid culminates, play 
the hand in front of you, in the manner of dupli- 
cate. Score it as played, then pick up the hands, 
lay them out like four exposed dummies, and 
replay the hand in every possible way. You 
will be astounded to see how much more valu- 
able it is than it seemed at first, and you will 
learn a very great deal about nullos. 



CHAPTER VIII 

CONDENSED NULLO HINTS 

Don't think every poor hand is a nullo-hand. 
Spade-hands are made up from the middle of the 
pack; nullo-hands from its two extremes. 

Even suit-distribution is a drawback. Very 
long suits and very short (or blank) suits are 
advantages. 

A long exposed suit should hold its deuce. 
Lacking its deuce and holding its ace, the hand 
is safe with one strong side-card. Lacking both 
ace and deuce, two strong side-cards are neces- 
sary to safety. 

Don't be too much afraid of aces and too little 
afraid of sevens and eights. All middle cards 
must be guarded as carefully as must aces and 
kings; they are equally dangerous. 

The line between a nullo and a no-trump is 
often very vague ; the line between a nullo and a 

120 



Condensed Nullo Hints 121 

spade is always very sharp. The dealer should 
differentiate clearly between "a spade " and 
"a nullo"; he should never bid either on a hand 
that demands the other. 

If the dealer opens with "a spade," his part- 
ner should rarely bid "a nullo. " A spade-hand 
makes a deadly nullo-dummy. Also, a spade- 
hand holds no bid with which to overcall an 
undesired nullo. 

If a player make any legitimate bid (anything 
other than "a spade"), his partner may overcall 
with "a nullo" or "two nullos. " Even after an 
opening no-trump this is possible. A perfectly 
good hand will often fit in with a nullo-bid, and, 
if it does not fit, its holder has a bid to which he 
can return. If he does return to that suit, the 
nullo-bidder should subside. 

A legitimate two-bid should never be over- 
called with nullos. 

It takes almost a better nullo-hand to raise 
nullos than to bid nullos. The raising hand goes 
on the board. Moreover, a raise may send the 
original bidder very high. 

The original bidder may bid as high as "two 



122 N\illo- Auction 

nullos," unassisted; he should never go to three 
without a raise from his partner. If his partner 
raises him from one to two, or from two to three, 
the original bidder may go as high as his hand 
warrants. 

A player who has once been called off from 
nullos by his partner should never return to 
them. He should also regard his partner s "pass" 
as a danger-signal ; a "pass" and a " call-off' ' 
should both be a warning to drop nullos. 

The original bidder may allow himself one 
unguarded suit, but not two; the nullo-raiser 
must hold no unguarded suit. A "guarded" 
suit is one that holds cards (or a card) lower than 
the six-spot. 

This rule may be broken in the case of single- 
tons. Singletons are always assets, as they mean 
future discards; and discards are the backbone 
of nullos. A nullo-raiser may hold a singleton 
king, even though that king is "an unguarded 
suit." A nullo-bidder may hold a singleton 
king and an unguarded suit, even though that is 
two unguarded suits. 

When the two hands "fit," very high nullo- 



Condensed Nullo Hints 123 

bids are successful. But it is necessary to know 
whether or not they do fit before bidding nullos 
high. Your adversary may hold the hand that 
you want your partner to hold, and your part- 
ner may be a dead- weight. 

Don't forget that nullos are played with 
twenty-six cards, not with thirteen; therefore 
don't bid them too high on your own hand alone, 
or your partner may prove your ruin. Don't 
forget that nullos are defeated by twenty-six 
cards, and not by thirteen; therefore, be wary 
of doubling them. While your hand may be a 
defeating hand, your partner may take every 
trick. 

Every player should seek discards for himself, 
and try to prevent his adversary from getting 
them. 

The secret of nullos is " middle-play " for both 
Declarant and adversary. When you don't 
know what to do, play a " middle" card (one 
that leaves you with both higher and lower cards 
in the same suit), and you will be apt to be right. 

In no-trumps, it is a mistake to play out all 
your aces and kings in the beginning, though all 



124 N\illo- Auction 

novices do it. In nullos, it is an equal mistake 
to play out all your deuces and treys in the 
beginning, though all novices certainly do it. 
The nearer a hand approaches its end, the more 
useful does a deuce become, to both Declarant 
and adversary. Keep all suits well guarded by 
low cards, and keep plenty of "get-out" cards, 
especially in Dummy. 

In no-trumps, if you hold the ace of an adver- 
sary's suit, you command that suit, — don't give 
up that command too soon in the hand. In 
nullos, if you hold the deuce of an adversary's 
suit you equally command that suit, — again, 
don't give up that command too soon. 

If the Declarant can be harmed by any par- 
ticular card, he should lead that suit till he draws 
that card. If you are afraid of a card, get it! 

The Declarant should count his sequences 
between the two hands in every suit. Sequences 
are plate-armor ; every break in the sequence is a 
joint in the plate. 

The Declarant should keep all of Dummy's 
suits guarded as long as possible. He should 
always be glad to "duck" as dangerous a card as 



Condensed N\illo Hints 125 

the jack, or the nine (when led by the adversary), 
particularly if he can get rid of a card like the 
ten, or the eight, and still keep a guard in the 
suit. 

The Declarant should do most of his necessary 
taking, early in the hand; but he should not 
regard all high cards as necessary takers. If 
sufficiently well-guarded, they need never take. 

The adversaries should avoid giving Dummy a 
discard, or establishing a discard for Dummy by 
leading up to a singleton. If Dummy holds a 
singleton king, and no blank suit on which to 
discard it, don't be in too much of a hurry to 
lead up to that king. It can always be made 
to take. Hammer Dummy's other vulnerable 
point first. 

If the Declarant gets a discard, the adversaries 
should come in immediately and lead the suit 
from which he is discarding. It is certainly the 
suit of which he is most afraid. 

The best opening-lead against nullos is a 
singleton. After that comes a certain type of 
doubleton. A doubleton lead is desirable only 
when the second of the two cards is a sure loser. 



126 Nullo-Axiction 

By leading an ace and then a six (a "high" card 
followed by an "intermediate" card), you give 
the Declarant a chance to get rid of two danger- 
ous high cards on your first lead, and to "duck" 
your second lead in both hands. You take both 
rounds and leave him better off than he was 
before. 

The next best lead is an intermediate card 
from a long mixed suit. Your partner may be 
short where you are long; also, you retain low 
cards in the suit for later deadly work. 

A low card from a series of low cards is a good 
lead. The leader, however, should always retain 
a card (or cards), lower than the one led. 

It is occasionally advantageous to lead out the 
only dangerous suit in your hand, if it is short 
(not more than three cards, and preferably less). 
This, however, is generally a great mental relief 
to the Declarant. 

If the Declarant discards from a suit, either ad- 
versary should lead that suit. If the Declarant 
avoids a suit (and Dummy gives no reason for 
his avoidance), that suit should preferably be 
led by the adversary on the right of the Declarant. 



Condensed Nvillo Hints 127 

A singleton deuce or trey is rarely a good lead, 
unless from a "stone- wall" hand that has no 
other lead and is crying for discard. A 
deuce or a trey may often throw the Declarant 
in, later in the hand. Any card higher than 
a trey, however, is not apt to be useful; a four 
can be ducked in both hands. 

High cards are frequently led during the prog- 
ress of a hand, when it is to the adversaries' 
obvious advantage to hold the lead and pull 
Dummy's "exit" cards before throwing him 
in. But high cards make very poor opening- 
leads ; they often enable the Declarant to get rid 
of the only cards that could possibly hurt him. 
Intermediate cards are excellent opening-leads; 
the Declarant is unable to "throw" any danger- 
ous high cards on them, and he is often forced 
to choose between taking the trick, and un- 
guarding the suit. 

When it is to the advantage of either Declar- 
ant or adversary to hold the lead, he should lead, 
and play, high cards. When he merely wants to 
coax the play of a dangerous, adverse, low card, 
he should lead, or play, low cards. 



128 N\illo-Aviction 

In positive suits, you lead up to weakness. 
In nullos, you lead up to strength. 

If an adverse ace does not fall on the first 
two rounds, and if both adversaries follow to 
both those rounds, the chances are largely that 
the ace will fall on the third round. It is gener- 
ally as safe to lead (or play) a king up to it, as to 
lead a deuce. 

Don't think you understand nullos because 
you have tried them a few times. 

Don't think the failures which were the results 
of those few trials can be laid at the door of nul- 
los. Use of nullos, and abuse of nullos, are two 
very different things. 

Don't forget the wonderful value of singletons 
and blank suits ; they are as valuable in nullos as 
they are dangerous in no-trumps. In the former 
suit they mean opportunities for discards. 

Don't fail to remember the play of every card ; 
the difference between a deuce and a trey will 
often turn the day. 

11 Ducking" is valuable, but it can be done 
once too often, as well as once too seldom. The 
player who tries to do nothing but "duck" from 



Condensed N\illo Hints 129 

the beginning of the hand is usually left to do 
considerable taking as the hand progresses. 

Learn to distinguish between "low" cards, 
and " intermediate' ' cards; the former are your 
friends, the latter are your foes. 

While nullos are not necessarily for expert 
use, alone, they are certainly for experienced use, 
alone. Practice is the best possible nullo- 
teacher! 



CHAPTER IX 

THE PROPER VALUE FOR NULLOS 

Nullos are variously played at eight a trick, 
at ten-under-no-trumps, at ten-side-by-side- 
with-no-trumps (whichever is bid first out- 
ranking the other), and at eleven. There is no 
question in my mind that eight is their perfect 
value; it has certainly the largest army of 
supporters. 

For four months, I played, wrote, and taught 
nullos at ten a trick. If their value should ever 
come to be ten, I should have led the march. 
But I tell you frankly that the ten-count is far 
from flawless, and that the eight-count is per- 
fect. Those who want nullos at ten, stand to-day 
where we stood more than a year ago. 

Under the old count, the suits were dead. 
Nine-tenths of the hands were no-trumpers. 
One of the best effects of the new count was that 

130 



Proper Value for Nullos 131 

it restored the importance of the suits and put a 
pin into the inflated value of no-trumpers. 
Monotony vanished. 

It has been authoritatively stated that with 
nullos placed at ten, seventy-five per cent, of the 
hands played are either no-trumps or nullos. 
In other words, fifteen out of every twenty hands 
are no-trumpers, positive or negative; and only 
five out of every twenty hands are left to be 
divided among clubs, diamonds, hearts, and 
royals. What will become of our suits under 
such conditions? 

With nullos at eight a trick, about one hand 
in ten is the average proportion for nullos. They 
are bid constantly, and played about once in ten 
times, — a very desirable proportion. 

One of the greatest experts in New York 
wrote asking me to come and demonstrate nullos 
to him. At the end of three hours he expressed 
himself as entirely convinced of the advantage of 
the eight value over the ten. And he placed nul- 
los at eight in a booklet which he subsequently 
wrote. I am sure that any one who gives them 
a fair trial at eight will support that count. The 



132 N\illo-A\iction 

amusing thing is that those players who didn't 
want nullos at all, now want them to excess. 
While we, who have wanted them from the start, 
are content to have them in moderation. 

Nullos at eight a trick make just as good 
forcers as at ten. Two nullos will beat one no- 
trump ; three nullos wall beat two no-trumps ; four 
nullos will beat three no-trumps; five nullos will 
beat four no-trumps. It is not till the other 
man has bid "five no-trumps' ' that the jump 
occurs, and you have to bid "seven nullos" to 
beat it. But the man who has bid five no-trumps 
has his work cut out for him, — particularly if the 
adversaries hold some guarded court-cards. 

Again, nullos at eight make almost as good 
game-scorers as at ten; it takes four-odd of the 
former and three-odd of the latter. The increase 
in difficulty in a nullo-hand comes between two 
and three — not between three and four. 

Nullos at eleven are played locally. It is 
a pity to make a low hand more valuable than 
a high one ; you want to be able to use your low 
hand, but j^ou should not expect it to out-rank 
everything else. The large proportion of hands 



Proper Value for Nvillos 133 

is played at the three major-suits, — hearts, 
royals, and no-trumps, — and should continue 
to be so played. It is absurd to make a deuce 
more valuable than an ace. Also, nullos can 
grow just as tiresome as anything else if over- 
done. They are the cayenne pepper of Auction, 
— marvelous for seasoning, missed if lacking, 
but deadly when used to excess. Too little 
makes for flatness ; too much is worse than none. 

I have been asked if I did not think "high 
cards ought to win"; I have replied "yes, but 
not too easily." It is too easy to get the bid 
at one-odd on a hand that says "six-odd," the 
minute you look at it; and all because you hold 
all the high cards and the low cards (having 
no value) cannot even force you. 

With nullos at eight the high cards will win, 
if they are high enough and well-enough played. 
With nullos at eleven, the low cards will win. 

The excuse made for counting nullos at ten is 
that "they are no-trumpers. " What if they 
are? That has nothing to do with their value. 
No-trumps used to be no-trumps at twelve a 
trick, and they are still no-trumps at ten. It 



134 N\illo-A\iction 

would be as sensible to say that all declared 
trump suits must count the same, because they 
were "all suits. " 

The excuse made for the eleven count is that 
nullos are the hardest suit to play. What if they 
are? That has nothing to do with their value. 
A no-trumper is admittedly the easiest hand to 
play, but it is worth the most. Nullos should be 
placed with reference to the beauty of the game ! 

Then the honors; as long as the other suits 
have honors, nullos must also have them. 

Why should there be six suits with honors and 
one suit without? There are many players who 
want all honors abolished; if that ever happens, 
then nullo-honors must go, too, and all the suits 
will be honorless. 

But until that does happen nullos must have 
their honors. Only, as nullo-tricks are counted 
differently from all other tricks, nullo-honors 
must be counted differently from all other 
honors. If tricks count negatively, honors must 
also count negatively. Nullos are negative no- 
trumpers. In all no-trumpers the honors are 
the aces. In positive no-trumpers you score 



Proper Value for N\xllos 135 

positive aces; and in negative no-trumpers you 
score negative aces. That is certainly logical. 
("Negative" aces are aces that you don't hold.) 

Therefore : 

The proper nullo- value is eight. 

Ten is too high ; it kills hearts and royals and 
causes an undue preponderance of no-trumpers — 
positive or negative. 

Eleven is obviously absurd. Low cards should 
be biddable but they certainly should not be 
more valuable than high ones. Don't put the 
bottom on top; don't use the floor for a ceiling! 
Eleven also kills the time-honored no-trump 
precedence. 

As long as six suits have their honors, the 
seventh suit must have its honors. A combina- 
tion of negative tricks and positive honors 
(whether aces or deuces) would be an illogical 
hodge-podge. You certainly should not count 
tricks that you don't take and honors that you 
do hold. 

Those who place nullos at ten or eleven make 
the game subservient to nullos. Those who 
place nullos at eight, make nullos subservient 



136 Nvillo--A.\jction 

to the game and its best interests. // is the 
game that counts! It should be well-rounded 
and perfectly proportioned. Give the suits 
values as nearly identical as possible. Don't 
put both black suits on top and both red suits 
underneath, — or both red suits on top and both 
black suits underneath. Put one black suit at 
the bottom and one on top and the two red 
suits in between, — higher than one black and 
lower than the other. Then, when it comes to a 
question of trumps or no-trumps, — don't put 
both no-trumps under all the suits, or over all 
the suits. Put one on top and one between. I 
think your proportion is distinctly clever and 
entirely perfect when the suits range thus 
(beginning at the bottom and counting up- 
wards): black, red, no-trump, red, black, no- 
trump ! 

Doesn't that balance better than this: black, 
red, red, black, no-trump, no-trump? See how 
top-heavy such an arrangement would be. 



CHAPTER X 

WHO MADE NULLOS? 

No one made Auction-nullos ; that is, no one 
person. 

Certain card games have always had negative 
bids ; all card games are made either to take or to 
lose tricks, and the game that combines both 
these points is, of course, the broadest game. 

Skat, solo Whist, and Boston — all have 
negative bids. Hearts is played entirely to 
lose; many juvenile games are played with the 
object of losing cards. 

The fact that I have always been a miserable 
holder impressed me, personally, with the 
certainty that the luck percentage in Auction 
was far too high. Any player, whether he holds 
well or badly, must admit that a game is raised 
to a higher level when its skill percentage is 
increased and its luck percentage decreased. 

i37 



138 Nvjllo-Axiction 

I, however, was so used to poor cards that 
when, at long intervals, I would get a short run 
of good ones and would win on hands that could 
have played themselves — which required no 
skill to handle — my winnings gave me small 
pleasure. I felt as though they were a gift, not 
an achievement. Always the desire for equaliza- 
tion was strong within me, whether I lost or won. 

It had frequently been said that it was a pity 
that Auction could not have a negative bid — 
a "nullo" that could be bid to lose tricks. The 
exposed Dummy was felt to be the stumbling- 
block, and the fact that it seemed to be taken 
for granted that "nullo" must mean "no trick 
at all." How could a man bid to lose every 
trick and carry an exposed Dummy of which he 
knew nothing? 

One day the idea occurred to me to allow six 
safe tricks on a one-nullo bid, five safe tricks on a 
two-nullo bid, and so forth. I decided instantly 
that the Dummy must be retained, as it is the 
backbone of the game ; and I began to work out a 
set of rules for the proper inter-play and inter- 
bid of the two hands; also a system of bids, over- 



Who Made Nullos ? 139 

calls, raises, leads, attack, defense, etc. To say- 
that I was astounded at the possibilities I found 
is to put it mildly. As I worked, I heard con- 
stant assurances that nullos were "a mere fad," 
and prophecies that "they could never come." 
To-day, those prophets are writing about nullos. 

While no one "made" Auction-nullos, I 
believe firmly that my readers and I developed 
and established them. If anyone else ever 
contributed a suggestion, or an addition to the 
sum of nullo-knowledge, I certainly never heard 
of it. 

I hold a letter written me by an absolute 
stranger. He says that, ten years ago, he tried 
to introduce nullos into plain Bridge ; though he 
failed at the time, he was "morally certain that 
they would come some day." He continues: 
11 Imagine my feelings now. " He is unknown in 
the Auction world at large, in connection with 
nullos; yet he and his friends will cheerfully 
testify that they tried nullos ten years 
ago. 

I hold another letter that was written in 
Scotland. The writer and his friends tried 



140 Niillo-Axiction 

nullos four years ago, abandoned them, and are 
now enthusiastic nulloists. 

The want has always been there; the idea has 
long existed; it needed but someone to develop 
it and make it practical. 

In the old Whist days there were but the four 
suits. Later, with Bridge, players found the 
fascinating possibility of a suit that meant 
general strength. They adopted no-trump and 
became its slave. 

Now, the mere fact that one hand holds more 
than average strength, has its inevitable correla- 
tion in the fact that some other hand must hold 
more than average weakness. It is as necessary 
to provide a bid for one hand as for the other; 
a scattered distribution of low cards should be 
considered as carefully as a scattered distribu- 
tion of high ones. In other words, nullos are as 
necessary as no-trumps. 

If one hand holds more than its share of 
hearts, some other hand is sure to be short on 
hearts and long on some other suit. The 
two hands are at liberty to bid each other 
up. 



Who Made Nullos ? 141 

Until nullos came, a no-trumper was the only 
hand that lacked its converse ! 

Every day I ask myself why this one side of 
Auction was the only one neglected. Why 
provide for a certain plethora of "pianola" no- 
trumpers by providing a bid for the hand that 
is abnormally high, and neglecting to provide 
one for the hand that is abnormally low? 

Let every hand have its counter-hand, and you 
achieve balance ! 



CHAPTER XI 

SOME DISCARDED NULLO-SUGGESTIONS, AND THE 
REASONS FOR DISCARDING THEM 

In the infancy of nullos, it was persistently 
suggested that the hands should be exchanged 
when nullos were played, and that the hand of 
the original nullo-bidder should be exposed as 
Dummy. 

Unless this were really necessary, it would be 
an unwarranted liberty with the established 
routine of the game. The fact that it is not 
necessary is proved by the high nullo-bids that 
are constantly and successfully pulled off. 

One hand has to be exposed — we all grant that. 
Now, if third-hand realizes that he is to be the 
Dummy (just as he has always been), and if he 
sees that his hand will hurt the bid, he will be 
far more particular about over-calling or passing 
than if he thought his hand would be held up. 

142 



Discarded Nxallo-Suggestions 143 

In the latter case he will hope that his dangerous 
strength will not be known, and he will therefore 
neglect the danger signals. He is safer if he 
knows he must be Dummy. 

A strong, or intermediate hand is always a 
menace to nullos, whether it be exposed or held 
up. I think the fact that it is to be exposed will 
not only make its holder much more careful 
about warning signals, but I think that original 
nullo-Declarants will learn more quickly to 
consider their partners' hands if they get their 
fingers burned a few times with the exposure of 
impossible Dummies. It simply means that the 
making-hand is allowed more latitude than the 
raising-ha,nd y instead of vice versa. And it is 
certainly better to do your bidding on the hand 
you are eventually to play. 

I hold a letter from an old and important 
player, who asks that his name be considered 
confidential. He thinks nullos "the most 
scientific, fascinating, strong and vital variant of 
the other makes/ ' and says that "they fill an 
aching void." He also insists that I am per- 
fectly correct in regard to the "status of nullos 



144 Nullo-Auction 

in Auction, and the precision with which they can, 
and should, be handled/' Then he concludes: 

11 The hands should not be exchanged in nullos, 
as that is unnecessary interference with the 
routine machinery of the game and would tend, 
as you say, to prejudice correct bidding. You 
have this right and use the proper argument.' ' 

Experts have agreed in vetoing this idea of 
exchanging hands. 

The proposition was made, at one time, to 
throw out the Dummy-hand, when nullos were 
played. This would be ruinous. The backbone 
of Bridge and Auction is the exposed Dummy. 
If you play with all four hands held up you are 
playing Whist, not Auction. And if you throw 
out Dummy's hand altogether, you spoil the 
game. There is no possible science in a game 
where one quarter of the cards are thrown aside. 
No one can calculate. It would reduce Auction 
to the level of all " widow" games. 

The exposed Dummy need not be a terror in 
nullos. Follow the rules for nullo team-work 
that I have been giving you, and you won't get 
hurt. 



Discarded N\illo-S\ig;g;estions 145 

Another idea was that nullos should count 
above the line only, for both Declarant and 
adversary. That would not do at all; when the 
Declarant makes his bid, he must always be 
entitled to a score below the line. 

Still another suggestion was that when one 
side successfully played a nullo-bid the value of 
the hand should be deducted from their ad- 
versaries' score, instead of added to their own. 
This would soon land us in the region of minus 
scores, and would, therefore, be undesirable. 

One of the most fantastic of ideas was this: 
if the Declarant loses his bid in a positive suit, 
his adversaries score the fifties above the line. 
Therefore, if he loses it in a negative suit he should 
be the one to take those fifties. 

Now, it would be very odd if a nullo-Declar- 
ant should score on the hand whether he made 
his contract or lost it. If he scored when he won 
and scored when he lost, every player would be a 
nullo- Declarant. The dealer would open every 
hand with "seven nullos ,, because he couldn't 
be beaten; he would score below the line if he 
won, and above the line if he lost. 



146 N\illo-i\\iction 

It was frequently suggested that instead of 
having one nullo-bid, we should have five nullo- 
bids, corresponding to the five actual bids; thus, 
a player could bid "a no-trump,* ' or "a nullo 
no-trump"; "a royal," or "a nullo royal"; 
"a heart," or "a nullo heart," etc. Fancy the 
labyrinths that we should have faced under such 
a system! 

Another suggestion was that nullos should 
be played to take tricks instead of to lose them, 
but that every trick should be won by its lowest 
card instead of its highest. That wouldn't be 
nullos, at all! Nullo means "no trick," so if 
your effort is to take as many tricks as you can 
you are not playing nullos. You are simply 
playing an inverted, taking, no-trumper where 
the low cards take the high ones. Such a hand 
would be easier than nullos, because it takes but 
one card to win a trick and two to lose it; but 
it would lack the spice, novelty, and snap 
of nullos. And the game would lose its newly 
acquired variety; all hands would be taking 
hands. This form of no-trumper is used in some 
localities under the name of "Inverts"; but 



Discarded Nvillo-S\iggestions 147 

players write me that it is incredibly flat, in 
comparison with nullos. 

Someone wrote me proposing that when either 
side lost a trick in nullos, that side should be 
permitted to lead. This would be a disad- 
vantage; long suits and thirteeners would be 
deadly, because, by leading them, you would 
take instead of lose. Suppose you had all the 
remaining clubs and no one else had any; in 
nullos you are safe, in such a case, because you 
don't have to lead and the adversaries cannot 
throw you in. But suppose you lose a trick and 
must lead; you lead a club and take the trick. 
Then the other man leads and you discard a 
club; but in losing the trick, you are again forced 
to lead. You would take half of your club tricks, 
in place of losing them all. 

I think nullos have settled. All these sugges- 
tions were interesting but none of them was 
necessary and none could improve nullos as they 
stand to-day. 



CHAPTER XII 



THE PLAY OF THE HAND IN POSITIVE SUITS 



I will show you a hand that was played in 
Nassau, Bahamas, and which I consider one of 
the most subtle and interesting combinations of 
cards that I have ever seen. I was playing Z: 

V Q10 5 4 

Jfr 73 

J97 

41 9754 



V 3 




Y 




9 J82 


4» KQ 108 6 4 


A 




B 


4* 95 


<> AK 








10 8 65 42 


4 KQ108 




Z 




4 62 



^7 AK976 
4i AJ2 

4b AJ3 

I think the score was somewhere in the 
twenties for each side; the fact that I chose to 

148 



Playing Positive Suits 149 

open with "a heart' ' instead of a "a no-trump,' ' 
and that I did not dare let A play his clubs, 
shows that the game was well along. On a clean 
score, I should have chosen a no-trump declara- 
tion, and I should never have risked anything 
against an adverse club, because I should have 
known that it could not land game. 

Actual bidding ran: Z, "a heart"; A, "two 
clubs"; Y, "by" (entirely correctly; he had 
not a trick in his hand, outside of trumps and 
not a ruff; "you must not raise on trumps 
alone"); B, "by" (B had not yet learned nullos 
and, even if he had, his partner would not have 
let him play them); Z, "two hearts"; A, "three 
clubs " ; Y and B, "by, " and it was up to Z again. 
As I have said, I was Z. 

The score forbade my allowing A to play his 
clubs; to defeat "three clubs" meant that I must 
take five tricks, and, with a silent partner, I did 
not see how I could do it; particularly as my 
trumps would surely be led through and the 
jack must be lost. 

On the other hand, if I could force A to "four 
clubs" I thought there was the chance of 



150 N\illo--AAiction 

defeating him. I must make some forcing- 
bid. 

I feared " three hearts''; suppose A held all 
the hearts that I lacked, and that he were forcing 
me with a view to doubling! My partner could 
not hold two side-kings, or a side-ace and a side- 
king; had he held such cards, he would certainly 
have raised me. But there was the chance that 
he held some guarded queens, or guarded jacks; 
these would not be "raisers" for a heart-make, 
nor would they be useful in any declared trump ; 
but they might fit my hand beautifully in no- 
trumps. Suppose my Dummy held a long queen- 
suit of spades (spades had never been mentioned) , 
and a guarded king or jack of diamonds. We 
should have an invulnerable no-trumper be- 
tween us. 

You remember that A held the bid at " three 
clubs, " and that I wanted to force him to " four. " 
I decided to switch my suit, and said " three no- 
trumps," realizing, the moment the words were 
out of my mouth, that two would have been 
sufficient. 

Under the American law, I could have changed 



Playing Positive Suits 151 

my bid to "two," because I perceived my own 
error before anyone else spoke, and it would 
have come under the head of an "inadvertent" 
bid. I was playing with three Englishmen, 
under the English flag and the English laws. 
The English law reads: " No bid once made may 
be altered, except in the case of insufficient bids. " 
And England is right! Never under any cir- 1 
cumstances, in any country, or with any com- 
panions, should I dream of taking advantage 
of that "inadvertent bid" law. 

A promptly doubled, and the bidding 
closed. 

A's first lead was a peculiar one; he chose the 
king of spades. He had placed the ace and jack of 
clubs with me, immediately. If he led the king 
up to the ace-jack, he gave me two rounds, and 
left himself with a minor ten-ace (queen-ten). 
If I refused the first round, he was forced to lead 
again from queen-ten up to ace-jack, in order to 
clear his suit — a very unpleasant position. 

If A could get the clubs through my ace-jack, 
he would make both his king and queen (instead 
of losing one of them) , and would cut me down to 



152 N\illo-Auction 

one club-round in place of two. Every trick 
counts in a bid of three no-trumps, doubled. 

By leading the king of spades, A announced the 
ace or the queen, and gave his partner a sure 
indication of the way to put him in when his 
clubs were established. 

It is a well-known play for fourth-hand, having 
ace- jack and others, to hold up his ace on the 
first round, — especially if the king be led. I 
think it is called the "Bath Coup." But 
Dummy's four spades to the nine-spot deter- 
mined my play to the trick. Had A led a club, 
I should never have put up my ace, because 
Dummy held no club help. But I reasoned in 
this way: I could afford to lose but four tricks; 
if I passed both black kings, and lost the ace and 
king of diamonds (inevitably), that would be 
my four; both black queens were on the wrong 
side of me, and one, if not both, must make. 
That would be defeat. Whereas, if I killed one of 
the black kings, I should be one trick richer; 
and the only one I could afford to kill was the 
spade. 

If I took the king with the ace, Dummy's 



Flaying Positive Suits 153 

four-spot would fall; if, later, the spades were 
led through me, A's queen would kill my jack, 
and Dummy's five-spot would fall. That would 
leave me with a perfectly protected nine of 
spades. I played ace on A's king, and started 
on my long hearts in order to get discards. I 
hoped to cripple A in one or the other of his 
black suits. And that, of course, was the only 
possible way to play the closed hand. 

After taking the spade and five hearts, I had 
my book; and I needed three more tricks. In 
order to let the spades and clubs come to me (as 
they must be made to do), I threw the lead with 
my queen of diamonds. If A took the round, he 
would "come to me" in the black suits, and that 
was what I wanted. 

If B came in, it would be unpleasant, but 
no worse than if I led a black suit myself. Sup- 
pose B led the spades through my jack-small; 
Dummy's nine would be a stopper. And suppose 
he led a club, as he certainly should do. My jack 
would force A to lead to me on the next round, 
and I should be no worse off (though no better) 
than if I led clubs myself. And there was the 



154 N\illo- Auction 

chance that A, and not B, would win the dia- 
mond-round. Fortune was kind to me there; 
A took my queen with his king. 

He led the king of clubs, and I played the 
deuce. He made his queen of spades, his ace of 
diamonds, and then threw me the lead with the 
ten of spades; I, of course, was left with the ace- 
jack of clubs, and he with the queen-ten. If he 
led to me, I made both rounds; if I led to him, I 
lost the jack. And that is what happened. 

I lost one doubled trick, minus thirty aces 
(70 points), and saved rubber. 

Now let us go back to the second round of the 
hand, immediately after I took with my ace of 
spades. With the entire hand lying open before 
one, it is apparent that the jack of diamonds 
could be made to take a trick. Suppose I made 
the very peculiar lead of the queen of diamonds, 
in order to establish Dummy's jack, and to save 
the heart-queen for re-entry. The jack of 
diamonds would certainly be the commanding 
card after two diamond-rounds. But it would 
have been an absolutely unwarranted play on a 
closed hand; all the experts to whom I have 



Playing Positive Suits 



155 



shown the hand, agree with me emphatically in 
this. 

One reader of The Times wrote me and in- 
sisted that Z would be entirely justified in leading 
the trey of diamonds on the second round. That 
is " playing results" with a vengeance. Z holds 
nine hearts in the two hands, including the ace, 
king, and queen. He holds but five diamonds 
(three to the jack in one hand, and two to the 
queen in the other), and lacks both top cards. 
Why should he choose to start on the latter suit, 
— particularly when he wants to force discards? 

Suppose the hand had lain thus: 
^? Q10 5 4 

4* 73 

J97 
4 9754 



V 2 


Y 




9 J83 


4* KQ 10864 


A 


B 


4* 95 


A52 






<> K 10 8 64 


4 KQ10 


Z 




4 862 


{ 


£? AK976 




i 


& AJ2 








Q3 








4t AJ3 







156 



N\illo- Auction 



A could have doubled on his club-suit and 
sure re-entry in diamonds and spades. And 
where would Z land with his second-round lead 
of the trey of diamonds? Legitimately played, 
on a closed hand, it is worth two no-trumps and 
no more. 

If you want to see how a pretty hand can be 
mangled, behold this: 





^ 10 

4k 

K 10 9 7 5 
4fc K 10 9 87 54 


^? QJ62 
4k KQ642 
<> 63 
4* 63 


Y 
A B 

Z 


9 K854 
4k J 10 8 7 8 
42 

4 QJ 




£7 A9 73 
4k A95 
<> AQJ8 
4k A2 





It was the first hand of the rubber, I was Y, 
and my partner opened with "a no-trump* ' on 
his hundred aces. As A, I should have bid "two 



Playing Positive Suits 157 

nullos," but the original A didn't; he passed and 
put it up to me. Of course, I bid "two royals* ' ; 
seven trumps to two honors (but the suit not 
established), a side-king, a side-singleton, and a 
blank suit constitute a hand that should dis- 
tinctly be played at declared trumps rather than 
at no-trumps. 

B passed, and my partner over-called with 
" two no-trumps. " A, pleased to see us at cross- 
purposes, and infinitely preferring no-trumps to 
royals, passed again. I have repeatedly said, 
and repeatedly written, the words, "don't warn 
twice; a word to the wise is sufficient. M Never- 
theless, there are those who are not "wise, " and 
I feared my present partner was one. If he had 
the strong no-trump hand that his second bid 
showed, I saw a royal grand slam looming up. 
I smelt a hundred aces in the air, but I didn't 
care. I said ' ' three royals. ' ' Z over-called with 
"three no-trumps," and of course I retired from 
the field. 

It will be apparent at a glance that I could 
have made my royal grand slam, scoring 40 for 
slam, 18 for honors, and 63, a total of 121. 



158 Nullo-Auction 

Nevertheless, Z should also have made a grand 
slam and should have scored: 70 points, 100 
aces, and 40 for slam, — a total of 210. If you 
will believe me, he went down one, taking 50 
from his hundred aces, and making the hand 
worth 50 above and nothing below. This is how 
he did it : 

A led the four of clubs, B played ten, and Z 
took with his ace. He led his ace of spades, then 
his deuce, and finessed Dummy's ten (instead of 
playing the king). B came in with his un- 
guarded queen, and he and A made four straight 
club-tricks. 

Z should have played Y's king on the second 
spade-round. It was an even chance that the 
queen would fall. If it didn't, he could switch 
to diamonds and make game and bid, before he 
stopped. One round of hearts, one of clubs, two 
of spades, and five of diamonds make nine rounds 
and game. 

Never finesse in a nine-card suit when you want 
to catch the queen. There are but four of the suit 
against you; the chances are against the queen 
being guarded. 



Playing Positive Suits 



159 



It is too late to finesse when the adversaries' suit 
is established against you. 

When once you have lost control of the adver- 
saries' suit, land your bid first and do your 
finessing afterward. 

Finally, never finesse with game in sight. 

Four excellent and time-honored maxims » 
any one of which would have saved the present 
situation. 

Here is another hand that was played in 
Nassau, Bahamas, and that carries an exceed- 
ingly useful lesson : 







* 


87 

A9 

10 5 

A K Q 7653 


V KQJIO 

♦ 10 6 3 
<> A7632 

♦ 8 


A 


Y 

B 

Z 


fy A965432 
* Q84 
K9 




* 



* 


KJ752 
Q J84 
J 10 9 4 





160 Nullo-AAiction 

The original bidding ran as follows : 

Z, "a club" (weak, but possibly permissible 
with the heart-ruff); A, "a heart," on his 64 
honors; Y, "a royal"; B, " two hearts"; Z, "two 
royals"; A, "three hearts"; Y, "three royals"; 
B, "four hearts"; Z, "four royals"; A, "five 
hearts"; Y, "five royals"; B, "six hearts"; Z 
and A, "by"; Y, "six royals," on the almost 
certainty (mark this) that hearts would be led, and 
the hope that Dummy had none. 

And hearts were, most incorrectly, led, giving 
Y a grand slam. B, who had already overbid 
his hand, and announced more "raisers" than he 
had, now made the terrible mistake of leading his 
ace of hearts. 

Granting that B could not see the hands, and 
that we can, there was still but one possible 
lead for him — the king of diamonds. 

B held seven hearts and his partner could not 
possibly have bid on less than four, making at 
least eleven between them. One of the adver- 
saries was, in all probability, blank in hearts, and 
there was the chance that it was the weak hand. 
If so, the ace lead was a gift to the weak-hand ruff. 



Playing Positive Suits 161 

A must hold something besides hearts; royals 
were announced strongly against A-B. That 
left clubs and diamonds, and Z had already bid 
clubs. Therefore, the only possible chance of de- 
feating the bid was that A's "outside hand" con- 
sisted of the ace of diamonds. That, too, might 
give B a third-round ruff. 

Had B chosen the diamond lead, Y would have 
been defeated by five points (50 minus 45 honors) ; 
as it was, he scored 63 points, plus 40 for slam, 
plus 45 honors — a total of 148 and game-in, and 
a difference of 153 points on the result of the 
hand. And all through a badly-chosen lead. 

The following hand was played at the An- 
thracite Bridge Club, Carbondale, Pa. All four 
players were known for their game, and "B' 1 
was an especially strong player. Nullos were 
not being used and though Y, in this instance, 
bid high on a queen-suit, — he was not in the 
habit of so doing. Z-Y were game-in and 600 to 
the good on the honor-score (that sounds like 
some plunging, to me) : 

11 



1 62 



Nullo-AAiction 





9 

* 




J973 

8 
Q9876543 


9 A 10 8 6 
£ KQJ85 

J943 

* — 


A 


Y 

B 
Z 


£? KQ542 
4k 10 4 3 
<> KQ 
4 AKJ 






4 


A9762 
A 10 7 6 5 
10 2 


2 



Actual bidding: Z, "a diamond"; A, "two 
clubs"; Y, "two royals " ; B, "three hearts," and 
I have been puzzling my head to decide why B 
said "three hearts" instead of "two no-trumps, M 
after he knew about his partner's club-suit. On a 
clean score I should certainly have chosen the 
declaration that meant game in three-odd. 
Perhaps he feared his short diamonds, with 
diamonds bid by Z. Perhaps, again, B wanted 
to force Y's royals. By declaring no-trump he 
would show general strength and a royal-stopper, 
and Y might not go up. Whereas, by declaring 



Playing Positive Suits 163 

hearts, B showed but one suit, and might tempt 
Y to his ruin. However — to continue the bid- 
ding: B, " three hearts "; Z and A, "pass"; Y, 
"three royals"; B, "double"; closed. "And," 
my correspondent wrote, "of course Y made it." 

B's double was poor, because three royals 
would not put Z-Y game, and three royals 
doubled would put them game, — if they made it. 
Again, the trouble was with a faulty lead. 

Let B lead his king of trumps. He will know 
from the bid that the queen lies with Y; by 
leading the king of spades, B gets a look at 
Dummy and still retains a fourchette over Y's 
queen (ace- jack lying over the queen). The 
moment Z sees Dummy's blank suit, he will 
lead his ace of spades, — to stop a weak-hand 
ruff, — and will then lead his hearts. Y cannot 
possibly take three-odd. 

The real B led his hearts first, thus making Y 
a present of an immediate cross-ruff. The 
opening-lead of the spade-king could lose noth- 
ing and would permit B to choose his next lead 
intelligently. 

Again, too many players neglect to lead trumps 



1 64 



N\illo--A.\iction 



up to weakness, when playing against the make. 
Take this instance, sent me by a reader of The 
Times: 

" There is no score on the rubber game; a 
heavy honor-score in favor of Z-Y, Z therefore 
being willing to incur a penalty to save rubber/'' 





V 


9865 




1 


* 


Q5 









Q6432 






♦ 


J4 




£? QJ 




Y 


^7 A K 107 4 3 


+ J93 


A 


B 


«f» AK 


<> AK J985 






10 7 


4 32 




Z 


4 986 




<V? 


o 






* 


10 8 7 6 4 


2 













* 


AKQ 10 


75 



Actual bidding: Z, "a royal"; A, "two 
diamonds"; Y and B, "pass"; Z, "two royals"; 
A and Y, "pass"; B, "three hearts"; Z, "three 
royals" ; A and Y, "pass";B, "three no-trumps" ; 
Z, "four royals ";B, "double"; closed. 



Playing Positive Suits 165 

A led diamond-king, Z trumped and led club- 
six; B took with the king and led king of hearts, 
following with ace of hearts. Z trumped the 
second heart and led deuce of clubs ; B took with 
the ace and led ten of hearts, which Z trumped. 
He next led a small club, trumping with Dummy's 
jack; then a small trump back into his own hand, 
making his remaining trumps and clubs. 

That was clever playing from Z, but I cannot 
approve of B's bid or play. The rest of the 
bidding was good. 

My first objection is to the statement that, as 
Z-Y were heavily ahead in penalties, they could 
risk something to save rubber. When I am 
" heavily ahead in penalties" I risk nothing. 
My risks are the only possible means of restoring 
these penalties to the adversaries. I sit tight; 
bid solidly ; Jorfeit rubber, if necessary; but keep 
the big penalties which are better than rubber. 

My next criticism is B's bid of " three no- 
trumps" without a stopper in Z's suit. Suppose 
he played it; Z would lead and would take six 
tricks without stopping, forcing three discards 
from B. That was an awful bid! 



i66 N\illo-A\iction 

Had I been Z, I should have left B in with his 
three no-trumps, in spite of my honors. I sup- 
pose he feared a guarded jack of spades. And, 
had I been B, I should have led trumps, "up to 
weakness," every time I was in. When the De- 
clarant refrains from trump-leads, he has a reason. 
The adversaries should always force him to play 
trumps , particularly that adversary who can lead 
them up to weakness. B could easily have de- 
feated the four royals. He was in an ideal 
position to lead trumps, and it was only too 
apparent why Z, himself, was refraining from 
trump-leads. 

One more instance of a faulty lead! Score, 
20 — o in favor of A-B, on the rubber-game; A-B 
also being 300 ahead in penalties : 



Playing Positive Suits 



i6 7 



9 52 

•fr AQ42 

A J 1097 63 

♦ — 



V 84 




Y 




cfi KJ 10 9875 

Q 


A 




B 


4 743 




Z 





^ AKJ109763 
4* 63 

5 

4 K6 



9 Q 



K842 

4k AQJ10 9852 

Z is playing five royals, doubled by B and 
redoubled by himself. B has been bidding hearts 
strenuously, A has bid clubs once, and Y has 
bid diamonds frequently. Finally, B has 
doubled Z's bid of "five royals," — a very poor 
double, by the way; better to play it undoubled 
and to risk nothing; then, to defeat the bid would 
be to make 50 a trick, and to see Z win would 
only be to let him take a score that was nearly 
wiped out by B's own "velvet." B's long 
hearts would certainly be ruffed soon, his barely- 
guarded trump-honor was in a poor position, 



1 68 Nullo- Auction 

and his singleton was useless, in that he hadn't 
trumps enough to use a ruff. Also, his double 
gave Z the chance of a redouble, and of an enor- 
mous profit. 

The first lead was the ten of clubs, which 
permitted Z to discard his heart-queen, and made 
him a present of an extra trick. He made a 
small slam and scored 216 points plus 20 for 
slam, plus 72 honors, plus 100 for contract, plus 
100 for extra trick, plus 250 for rubber, a total of 
758. The original Z also counted 18 for chicane, 
but there is no longer any score for chicane. 

B should have refrained from doubling, and A 
should have led a heart to his partner's bid. He 
did not hold enough hearts to make this lead 
dangerous, and he had no good lead of his own, 
and no card which would permit him t6 hold the 
lead until after he had seen Dummy. 

There is a good deal of serious discussion 
concerning ace-leads. If you lead out an ace, 
everyone throws trash on to it, whereas, if you 
hold it up, you may kill a king or queen with it, 
— and the function of aces is to kill kings and 
queens. On the other hand, an ace always per- 



Playing Positive Suits 169 

mits you to hold the lead and to choose your 
second lead with your eyes open. Also, it gives 
your partner a chance to tell you whether, or 
not, he holds the king of the suit. If he does, he 
will play an "encouragement" '-card on your 
king (seven-spot or higher); if he hasn't the 
king, he will play a "discouragement"-card 
(under seven), and you can read the suit. 

In no case must you "lead away from an 
ace, M — that is, lead low from an ace-suit. If you 
hold ace-king and one or more cards, lead your 
king first. In all other cases, lead your ace or let 
the suit alone. Never lead fourth-best from an 
ace. (Of course I am speaking of original leads, 
and of declared trumps). 

Passing from the play of positive hands, to 
their bid, — there is little new to say, — except 
that conventional bids are dead and buried; 
miles and miles under the sod. 

From the beginning I have carried on an 
unwavering campaign against two forms of 
bidding: the conventional bid and the pre- 
emptive bid. The conventional bid has ceased 
to exist ; it would be a waste of breath to discuss 



170 



N\illo-A\iction 



it further. With the possible exception of "two 
spades" (which is still used by some players), 
"high spades" are deep in the discard. 

I meet very few pre-emptive bidders, but the 
race exists. Let me give you two instances of 
this form of bidding; in the first case, I was in 
the game; and the second hand was sent me by 
an unknown correspondent in Boston. 

9 Q3 
c$i Q10 6 3 
Q652 
tfk J32 



V AK 




Y 




ty J 10 97654 


4» K9874 


A 




B 


cfi AJ5 


<> 10 98 7 3 




z 




AKJ 


♦ io 




*-* 




* — 



9 82 

tfi 2 

4 

4 AKQ987654 



The score was 8 — o on the rubber game in 
favor of Z-Y, and I was playing B. 

Z opened with "two royals" on a nine-card 



Playing; Positive Suits 171 

spade-suit headed by the ace-king-queen, and 
four trashy side-cards. 

Second-hand passed, third-hand passed, and 
failing that pre-emptive bid, I (fourth-hand) 
should certainly have passed also. My only suit 
was headed by the jack, and I am not a jack- 
bidder. 

Presupposing good bidding (what I consider 
good bidding) on the part of my adversaries, it 
would not occur to me to bid a jack-suit on the 
first round. 

I think it is generally acknowledged that no 
one opens with a two-bid, in these advanced 
days, if he holds strong trumps and strong side- 
suit. On such a hand as that, a pre-emptive bid 
is unnecessary, because no adverse bid can 
possibly win out; the player who holds nine 
spades to the ace-king-queen and four invulner- 
able side-cards will be quite content to open 
with "one royal"; he will dread no communica- 
tion between his adversaries, because he will be 
sure of his ability to outbid them. 

He would even like them to bid, and to take his 
choice between defeating them and outbidding 



172 N\illo- Auction 

them, except for the fact that the pre-emptive 
bidder scorns defeating the bid ; his one idea is to 
play the hand. He holds two hundred and fifty- 
points so close to his eyes that he cannot see 
four hundred points a yard away. 

In this hand, had Z opened with "a royal/' 
it is a self-evident fact that no one would have 
bid against him. My partner couldn't bid; his 
partner wouldn't have to. I had no bid but an 
illegitimate one which I should never have 
dreamed of making; the rubber was not appar- 
ently near its close, and I should simply have 
hoped to save it. Z would have captured the bid 
at "one royal"; he would have made three-odd 
and landed rubber. 

But the moment he said "two royals" he 
announced: "I am afraid of something — please 
don't bid it. If you two adversaries only knew 
what I know, I should be done for." We sat 
up and began to take notice ; my partner's hand 
solved no mysteries, and he passed. My hand 
screamed the secret from the housetops, and I 
promptly answered with "three hearts." 

It is true that I lacked my ace, king, and 



Playing Positive Suits 173 

queen. But Z didn't hold them — he had prac- 
tically said so. It was an even toss between Y 
and my partner; if Y held them, we had no 
chance of rubber from the beginning of things. 
If my partner held them, there might be some 
fun. There was. 

Z could make three-odd in royals — no more, 
no less. I could make a grand slam in hearts, 
and I should never have known it, never have 
tried, never have bid, never have established the 
slightest communication with my partner, except 
for the particular form of Z's opening-bid. 

My partner held the ace-king of my suit, a 
side-singleton and a side- king. He could have 
raised twice, or thrice, but he didn't have to. 
One raise from him was enough for me. I should 
have bid my hand to almost any point. The 
11 pre-emptive' ' bid didn't pre-empt, you see. 

Remember this, then, if a man opens with a 
pre-emptive bid, he fears something. If your 
hand gives no indication of what he fears, pass; 
your partner's hand may be more illuminating. 
But if you have reason to think you know his 
weakness, bid; bid even two or three tricks in 



174 Nullo-Auction 

excess of what your hand warrants. Don't be 
''shut out." Then no one but the dealer's 
partner can possibly be inconvenienced by the 
bid. 

This comes from a pre-emptive bidder (it is 
approximate ; I haven't the exact quotation with 
me): "It is laughable to see the strong hands 
on which we are supposed to open with two-bids. 
Granted a strong major-suit and strong side- 
support, we always open with a one-bid. But 
if we hold one major-suit, and are very weak in 
the other, we open with a two-bid to prevent 
communication between our adversaries and the 
ultimate establishing of the suit we fear. " 

How can any one be fooled with such sophis- 
tries? How could such a system work more 
than once? The moment a man opens with a 
two-bid, you say to yourself: "He is afraid of 
some suit ; which is it? " You look at your hand 
and decide, and you bid that suit. You bid it if 
you break every rule in the list ; you bid it at the 
expense of two or three tricks, because he has 
virtually told you that you must. And if your 
hand doesn't warrant it, your partner's probably 



Playing Positive Suits 



175 



does. One of you is apt to hold a preponderance 
of the suit which the dealer fears; and the one 
who holds such length must bid it. 

Then there is the remaining chance that the 
long adverse suit is held by the dealer* s own 
partner, that there was no necessity for the 
shut-out bid, that the two hands don't "fit," or 
that you and your partner were out of the race 
from the beginning. 

The man who bids unnecessarily high is 

afraid of something; he talks loud to cover the 

fact, — like a bully who swaggers to hide his fear. 

Here is the Boston hand that I promised you: 

9 J876 

£ KQJ9876 

— 

4 J 10 



9 A52 

£ 10 4 



4 AQ7 654 32 


Y 

A B 

Z 


£? Q43 

*3 

<> K98765 

4 K98 




^? K10 9 
4» A52 
<> AQJ104 
* — 


[32 



176 Nullo- Auction 

Z opened with "four diamonds," to shut out 
any adverse royal-bid, 

A was perfectly able to make this royal-bid 
and to keep it. But he didn't bid. He realized 
that Z had probably bid his hand to the top- 
notch, and that four diamonds wouldn't put 
him game (he had nothing on the score). He 
passed, and left Z with a ten-trick contract. 

Y didn't care to say "five clubs" with six 
losing cards and lacking the ace of his suit. 
Besides, his partner's bid had said: "Get out of 
my way, I don't need you." He passed, and of 
course B passed, — tickled to death. 

The success of pre-emptive bids pre-supposes 
the inability of the adversaries to pass, — or to 
make their bid, if they bid. A could have bid, 
and made, "four royals"; then the shut-out bid 
would have been futile, because it didn't shut 
out. B might have been foolish enough to 
double; then Y would have tried his clubs. 

Of course, Z was defeated. Properly bid, the 
hand would have been played at clubs, — because 
Y would have made one warning over-call and Z 
would have switched. Z-Y could have made a 



Playing Positive Suits 177 

small slam in clubs or could have defeated an 
adverse "five royals. " The partner, and not 
the adversary, was inconvenienced by the 
opening-bid. 

I played, the other evening, against a pre- 
emptive bidder, and the results of his methods 
were startlingly poor. 

He opened with " three royals" on eight 
spades to the ace-jack-ten, in order to shut out 
an adverse bid in hearts (he held but one small 
heart). His partner, and not his adversary, 
held those hearts; sixty-four honors, and enough 
cards to land three-odd in hearts, but not four- 
odd. He had not a spade in his hand. And the 
left-hand adversary held three spades, including 
the king and queen, and the three top diamonds, 
which all took tricks. 

An opening-bid of "one royal" would have 
produced a call-off of "two hearts" (from the 
partner), and no one else would have bid. 
The hand would have landed 24 points and 64 
honors, instead of achieving defeat. 

The next pre-emptive flier was an opening of 

"two nullos" on an absolutely perfect nullo- 
12 



178 Nxillo- Auction 

hand. Alone, it would never have taken a trick. 
The partner's hand would have taken seven, at 
least. He was obliged to warn with "two no- 
trumps," which closed the bidding. He landed 
one-odd and went down 50. Those two hands 
were a misfit, and an opening bid of "one nullo" 
would have disclosed the fact and saved disaster. 

The " shut-out' ' bids didn't succeed in keeping 
us from bidding. When we had good hands we 
bid them and played them, in spite of the effort 
to block us. When we hadn't, we didn't want to 
bid, anyhow. And when the partner had a wail 
to make he found himself bound and gagged. 

After the bidding is in progress, on the second 
or third round, I do occasionally bid a trick in 
excess of necessity, but never to open. When I 
know the lay of the land, have given my partner 
a chance to warn, have discovered that our hands 
fit, that mine should be the one to play and his to 
assist, then, and then only, I sometimes block 
or force the adversary with a bid that is one 
trick higher than it need be. I know then the 
position of the adverse suits, instead of trying to 
guess them. And I know that my hand should 



Playing Positive Suits 179 

be used for playing, and not for defeating. But 
that is a very different story. 

When all four players at a table are pre-emp- 
tive bidders, when they are accustomed to that 
form of game, its faults are not so apparent. 
They simply play a very good form of bid- 
bridge; the first man in, gets the hand to play, 
and makes the most he can out of it. Possible 
penalties are ignored unless they are very big. 
When a bid goes down because a helpless part- 
ner's lips were sealed by a pre-emptive opening, 
it does not strike them forcibly because they are 
all quite used to it. Each suffers from it in turn, 
but, at any rate, they have "kept the adversaries 
out of the play." 

But put two such players against two others 
who do not believe in pre-emptive openings, and 
the difference is soon apparent. I saw it tested 
recently in twenty-four duplicate hands. The 
result was over 400 in favor of the non-pre- 
emptives, though each pair had played the same 
big hands and the same small ones. Each had 
had the same chance of gathering information or 
of blocking it. 



180 Nullo-Amction 

The partners who opened their ears and lis- 
tened were 400 points points richer than the ones 
who closed their ears and bellowed. It is the 
old story of "I talk so loud and so much that I 
have no time to listen," vs. "There are so many 
instructive things to which I want to listen that 
I talk only as much as is really necessary to my 
business." 

In addition to this, there is a very irritating 
feeling that the beauty of the game and the 
delicacy and subtlety of the bidding are entirely 
lost in the hands of heavy pre-emptive bidders. 

The advent of nullos makes the first excuse 
for a pre-emptive opening-bid. It will sometimes 
pay a dealer to open with "two hearts," or 
"two royals," or "two no-trumps," to shut out 
a possible adverse nullo-bid, or even to lay a 
trap for an opposing " three-nullo " bid. 

When you consider, how r ever, that this could 
only be possible on fifty per cent, of the hands 
(the hands when you are dealer), — that on only 
about half of that half could you hope to have the 
material for a pre-emptive opening, — that on a 
half of that quarter the adversaries may not 



Playing Positive Suits 181 

want nullos anyhow, — and that on fully a 
quarter of that eighth your partner may hold 
the nullo-hand and may want to give you a 
desirable warning which you have silenced, — 
you will realize that in only about three hands 
in thirty-two is it wise, profitable, possible, or 
necessary to make a pre-emptive opening against 
a possible nullo. 

How are you going to recognize those three 
hands ? 

It is against the pre-emptive bid from dealer 
or from second-hand that I wage my war. 
Those two players have yet to hear from their 
partners! Warning-bids are one of the game's 
most delicate points and they ceased to exist 
with pre-emptive openings. But after dealer 
and second-hand have spoken, there are often 
occasions when an unnecessarily high bid is 
advantageous. Such bids should not become a 
habit; they should never be made without a 
reason, or without proper material. But grant- 
ing these two requisites, their effect is most 
happy. Here is a brilliant instance : 



1 82 



Nullo-Aviction 





V 









* 


AKQ942 







KQ62 






♦ 


875 




^7 109 74 




Y 


^ AKJ862 


4> 108 7 


A 


B 


4$ J53 


53 






08 


4 J 10 9 6 




Z 


4 432 




<? 


Q53 






* 


6 









A J 10 9 7 


4 




♦ 


AKQ 





Z opened with "a no-trump/ ' //ws showing 
that he held but one unguarded suit. A passed, 
and it came to Y. Y feared a heart-bid from B, 
which would determine A's lead. He knew that, 
in all probability, his partner (Z) held a heart- 
stopper, — as his " unprotected suit" was almost 
certainly clubs. Y, therefore, cleverly bid "two 
no-trumps," to shut out a heart-bid or nullo-bid 
from B, or to push that bid to three. B passed, 
and A, unaware of his partner's suit, led the 
jack of spades, — thus enabling Z to make a 



Playing' Positive Suits 185 

grand slam. With a heart-lead, he could have 
made but five-odd. 

Of course, A-B couldn't have made three 
hearts, — they couldn't have made two. But B 
could have invited a heart-lead by a " two-heart " 
bid, — while he hesitated to bid three against two 
no-trump adversaries. 

Y's bid was a very clever coup! 



CHAPTER XIII 

HINTS FOR THE PLAY OF THE POSITIVE SUITS 

Nines and tens are the indicators as to the 
proper method of taking a finesse. Holding 
(in the two hands) the ace, the jack, and either 
the king or queen (but lacking the other of them) , 
your object is to catch that missing honor by a 
fortunate finesse. Everyone knows enough to 
finesse from the low hand to the high. Not 
everyone knows the proper way to do it. 

Let us suppose that the jack lies in the Dummy 
and the ace-queen in your own hand. Of course, 
you must never lead up to the jack; that would 
make the king a taker, no matter where he lay. 
You must get into the jack-hand by a side-lead, 
and lead up to your ace-queen. Holding in 
either hand, the nine, the ten, or both, lead your 
jack towards your ace-queen. Holding neither 
the nine nor the ten, lead a low card towards your 

184 



Playing Positive Suits 



185 



ace-queen. A concrete example will make this 
plain: 



9 10 9 4 





9 J73 




Y 


A 


B 




Z 



9 K6 



^? AQ852 

The lead is with Y. It does not look as though 
A's ten should ever take, with but two cards to 
guard it. Yet if Y's jack is led, A's ten will take. 
Y plays jack, B king, Z ace, and A four. Z has 
then to lead the ace; and, on the third round, A's 
ten is good. Did A hold one more small card, 
both his nine and ten would take. 

Let a small card be led from Y. B plays king, 
Z ace, and A the four. Z leads back to the jack, 
and then to his own queen, — and Y's ten never 
takes. 

Did Z hold the ten, nine, or both, in either of 
his hands, — it would be impossible that they 
should take against him. He would then lead 
his jack towards his ace-queen. Remember, then : 



186 Nvillo-Auction 

Holding the nine, the ten, or both, finesse the 
jack towards the ace-queen. Holding neither nine 
nor ten, finesse a low card towards the ace-queen. 

The same rule holds when the queen lies in 
one hand and the ace-jack in the other. 

The nine and ten should also be guides 'to- 
wards the advisability of covering an honor with 
an honor. Seeing neither nine nor ten in your 
own hand nor on the board, cover an honor with 
an honor ; you may establish the nine or the ten 
for your partner. 

Never finesse with game in sight. 

Don't jeopardize your bid by a risky finesse; 
land your bid first. 

It is too late to finesse when a suit is estab- 
lished against you. 

Don't finesse in a nine-card suit when you 
want to catch the queen. There are but four cards 
against you; three of them, including the queen, 
must lie together in order to protect her. The 
chances are that she is unguarded. Do, however, 
finesse in a nine-card suit when you want the 
king; it takes but one card to guard him. 

Take every finesse as late as possible. Never 



Playing' Positive Suits 187 

take a finesse on the first round that could be 
taken on the second, nor one on the second round 
that could be deferred till the third. Every 
additional round furnishes additional informa- 
tion as to who is short, how the cards lie, and 
where and how the missing court-cards are 
guarded. 

In playing against the bid, avoid giving infor- 
mation to the adversary by your discard. If a 
ten-ace suit lies on the board, remember that 
he will watch discards in order to place the 
missing honor. Don't tell him what he wants to 
know. 

If an ace-queen suit lies exposed on your left, 
and you hold the king, he is in a bad position. 
If you hesitate to lead the suit, the Declarant 
will spot your king and will lead through him. 
Whenever you have cards enough of the suit, 
lead through the ten-ace, to fool the Declarant. 
You cannot fool your partner; he knows he 
hasn't the king. 

Don't lead " thirteeners " except at no- 
trumps. To do so in declared trumps, is to 
give the adversary a wonderful chance; he 



1 88 Nullo- Auction 

can ruff in one hand and discard a loser in the 
other. 

Don't give the weak hand ruffs. 

Don't establish a ruff for the weak hand. 

Don't lead up to a king-and-one ; you estab- 
lish him firmly for the first round or the second. 

Lead through a king-and-one, whenever you 
have a chance. 

Lead through a ten-ace, but never up to one. 
To lead up to ace-queen, or king-jack, is to 
allow the Declarant to get his trick as cheaply 
as possible. It is better to lead up to ace-king 
than ace-queen. 

Lead through strength, but not through a 
sequence. 

"King ever, queen never." If the king-and- 
one are on the board and are led through, put 
up the king. If the queen-and-two be led 
through, keep your queen. 

In no-trumps, don't lead your suit up to a 
declared stopper that is not the ace. 

Avoid a deuce-lead against no-trumps. It 
tells too much. It shows at once that your suit 
is but four cards long. Holding two four-card 



Playing Positive Suits 189 

suits, one running from king to deuce and the 
other from king to trey, — always choose the 
latter for a blind lead. 

Don't forget the " one-card echo" at no- 
trumps. // your partner leads and Dummy 
plays a card that you cannot cover, play your next 
to highest card. This enables your partner to 
read the suit. 

Never fail to show five cards of the suit that 
your partner leads, at no-trumps. If you hold 
five to a face-card and your partner leads a high 
card, play your next to highest and then play down. 
If you hold five to a plain card, and your partner 
leads high, play your next to lowest and then play 
up. These methods avoid possible blocking, 
and permit the long hand to get in last. Your 
partner may hold anywhere from four to eight 
cards of a suit in which you hold five. He will 
not lead in no-trumps from a suit that is shorter 
than four. He will not lead a high card, unless he 
has seven cards or three honors. 

If your partner leads in no-trump and you 
hold but two cards of his suit, and if the rule of 
eleven shows that the adversary on your left 



190 Nvillo-Auction 

(the Declarant) holds but one card higher than 
the one led, always play the higher card of your 
two to the first trick. This, to unblock. 

When each side has been bidding a suit very 
high, it is probable that each is bidding on a short- 
age of the other's suit. Remember this when you 
lead. Make some eccentric lead rather than 
lead your long suit. It will often enable you to 
defeat the bid before the Declarant gets in. He 
is counting on an immediate ruff of your suit. 

When you play last to a trick, and hold ace- 
jack and another (or others), generally hold up 
both ace and jack on the first round, — parti- 
cularly if a king be led. 

Remember the difference between making the 
adversary " come to you " on the last two rounds, 
or of "going to him," on those same rounds. 
Suppose you hold ace-jack and he holds queen- 
ten. If he leads, you make both rounds; if you 
lead, you lose one. In other words, in order to 
take the twelfth and thirteenth tricks, it is often 
necessary to throw the lead to the adversary on the 
eleventh trick. The tenth is too soon, — he will 
throw it back to you on the eleventh, and you 



Playing Positive Suits 19 1 

will "go to him, " on the twelfth and thirteenth. 
Anything after the eleventh is too late. This fact 
is so important that a great English authority- 
has called the eleventh trick the "pivot" trick. 
Don't "throw the lead" senselessly. Wait and 
throw it, with a purpose, on the eleventh trick. 
Hold up your coup until then. For instance, I 
was playing a big heart-hand with a very valu- 
able cross-ruff. Trumps had not been drawn. 
I held also a ten of spades which was high. / 
held it till the eleventh trick. My hand at the 
opening of that trick looked like this : 

* 10 

The adversary on my left held more trumps than 
I ; he was all trumps and he held the king, thus : 

ty K98 

His king was on the safe side of my ace-queen, 
and looked safe. If I led on the twelfth round, 
it would take. If he led, it wouldn't. 

On the eleventh trick (no sooner, no later) I 
led my spade. He trumped, he led to me, and 



192 



N\*llo--A\iction 



his perfectly-guarded, safely-placed, trump-king 
never took. 

Similarly, suppose while the hand is young, 
you (as Declarant) find yourself with a six-card 
suit, — three to the jack in one hand, and three 
to the ace-queen in the other, — or reversing the 
positions of the jack and queen, thus: 



£ Q83 




Y 




A 


B 


Z 





4* A J7 

To lead that queen towards the ace-jack 
would be to invite a certain third-round loss. 
Lead a low card from Y, and finesse your jack. 
If the finesse goes, the king is marked with B. 
Drop that suit entirely y play your other suits, and 
retain a sure loser till the eleventh round, a loser 
that you know will throw the lead to B. Throw 
him in on the eleventh round. He will then be 
holding the king and one small club while you 
hold queen-small in one hand and ace-small in 



Playing Positive Suits 193 

the other. He must lead; and whatever he 
leads, you take both rounds. 

Did you make the twelfth lead, his king would 
take inevitably. 

Let the Declarant remember to false-card 
constantly. Let him mix immaterial low cards 
habitually. This will puzzle and hamper the 
adversary. But let no one attempt to false-card 
when playing against the bid ; such false-carding 
would deceive the partner of the player who 
attempted it. The Declarant having no partner 
to deceive, is the only player who can afford to 
false-card. 
13 



CHAPTER XIV 

THE SHIFT 

In old Auction, if you held more than one 
possible bid, it was considered best to name your 
lowest suit first, so that you could go, later, to 
a higher one without increase of contract. 

In present-day Auction, it is admittedly 
better to name your highest suit first; first, 
because if no one else bids, you play your hand 
to its best value; and second, because if there are 
several rounds of bidding and you name your 
lower suit last, — your partner can go back to 
your higher one, without increase of contract, — 
if it happens to suit him better than your lower 
one. This is known as the "shift"; it is like 
walking dtfww-stairs, one step at a time, instead of 
^-stairs; and it is a very useful form of bidding. 

The other evening I dealt myself the following 
hand: 

194 



The Shift 195 

<$ KJ9543 

*3 

O — 

4 KQJ532 

That is a wonderful combination for royals, 
hearts, or nullos. I opened with "one royal," 
in accordance with the process of elimination 
("bid your best suit first") and to try the hand. 

Second-hand said "two clubs," and my part- 
ner passed. Evidently royals didn't suit him. 

Fourth-hand said "two diamonds," to my 
joy. I always love to have my opponents 
bidding against each other. 

I shifted to "two hearts," to see how that 
would strike my partner. Second-hand shifted 
to his partner's suit and said "three diamonds," 
and my partner passed. He didn't like hearts 
any better than royals. 

Fourth-hand passed, and I said "three 
nullos" ; I held a blank in one of the adversaries' 
suits and a singleton trey in the other. Also, 
each of my own strong suits was thrice guarded 
with low cards. 

I have told you never to say "three nullos" 



196 Nullo-AAiction 

unassisted; but this was different. I had already 
given my partner two positive suits with which 
to take me out, if he didn't want nullos. 

He did want them. There followed some 
lively bidding; my partner raised and raised 
my nullos, and finally went to " seven nullos," 
over an adverse "five no-trumps." We were 
promptly doubled and the bidding closed. 

And I made it ! 

Seven nullos are 56; doubled, they are 112; 5© 
for contract; 40 for slam, and 40 more for the 
adverse aces held by the adversary. Two hun- 
dred and forty-two points on the hand. 

This is the way the cards lay : 



The Shift 



197 





9 2 

4k Q 10 5 4 2 
875432 


9 876 

4k AKJ98 

Q6 

4 A76 


Y 

A B 

Z 




^ KJ9543 
* 



4 KQJ5 32 



9 AQ10 
4» 76 

AKJ10 9 
4 1098 



Now, you see, after my opening-bid of "a 
royal" A could not say "a no-trump, M because 
— though he stopped my suit — he held two un- 
protected suits of his own. He made his only 
possible bid when he said "two clubs." 

As Y, I should certainly have said "two nullos " 
very promptly. Then, if Y's partner (Z) didn't 
like the nullos, he could go back to his own suit. 

This Y refrained from the nullo-bid for several 
reasons. First, he liked the clubs, holding five 
to two honors and two side-singletons. Then, 
he held such a wonderful nullo-hand that he 



198 Nullo-Auction 

didn't see how I could possibly have one ; he was 
afraid that his nullo-bid would strike me badly, 
would drive me back to "two royals," and that 
he would be a dead weight in my royal-bid. 
And, thirdly, if nullos were played between 
us, he distinctly wanted his hand to be the 
Dummy. This it could not be if he first said 
nullos. 

Coming to B, he would very much like to bid 
no-trumps (after his partner's "two clubs"), 
but he didn't hold a stopper in my royals, and 
didn't know that his partner held such a stopper. 
That was my advantage; one of my adversaries 
failed to stop one of my suits and the other failed 
to stop the other. And neither one could see the 
other's hand. I bid royals, then hearts. A 
couldn't stop hearts, and didn't know B could; 
and B couldn't stop royals, and didn't know A 
could. Nevertheless, they risked the no-trump 
plunge later, when we ran the nullos too high 
for their club and diamond bidding. 

Not only could we make our seven nullos, 
but we could defeat any adverse overbid. Clubs 
and diamonds cannot be bid to beat seven nullos ; 



TKe SHift 199 

there are but three possible bids — " seven hearts," 
"seven royals," and "six no-trumps"; you can 
see for yourself how they would fare. 

This is "the Shift." Suppose my partner's 
hand had been different from what it really was 
and mine had been the same; suppose I had 
opened with my lowest suit first, instead of my 
highest; "one nullo" meeting with no response 
from my partner, I would then have gone to my 
next higher suit and covered the adversary's 
"two diamonds" with "two hearts." Then, 
with no raise from my partner, I should have 
said "three royals" (over "three diamonds"). 

Now, if it should happen that my last bid suited 
my partner even less than my first, he would have 
to go to "four" in one of my former suits in order 
to call me off from my last bid; he would have 
to assume a contract that was heavier than 
mine. 

By bidding my highest suit first, then the 
next to highest, then the lowest, I allow him a 
return to either of the first two without increase 
of contract. If he doesn't like "three nullos," 
he can take his choice between "three hearts" 



200 N\illo--A.\iction 

and "three royals " without adding another 
trick to the contract. 

Don't forget this "shift" in your bidding; it is 
exceedingly useful. 



CHAPTER XV 

THE DISCARD 

It is perfectly proper to use the discard from 
strength, the discard from weakness, or the odd- 
and-even discard (odd for strength, even for 
weakness), — if you like them. But I think the 
best and most up-to-date discard is that made 
by " encouragement , ' ' and ' ' discouragement ' ' 
cards. If you play a seven, or higher, on the 
first round of a suit, you want that suit led to 
you. If you play under seven, you don't want it. 

All other discards can be used as discards 
only; encouragement and discouragement cards 
on the contrary, can be used equally in following 
suit and in discarding. 

Suppose you are playing against a heart- 
declaration, and your partner leads the ace of 
clubs. He hasn't the king, for he would lead it if 
he had. It is within your power to tell him 

201 



202 N\illo-A\jction 

whether or not you hold that king; and he will 
know, accordingly, whether to lead the suit again, 
in place of merely chancing it. If you play seven, 
or higher, on his ace, you say: "I have the king; 
come on." If you play under seven, you deny 
the king, and he tries another suit. 

It sometimes happens, of course, that you lack 
the proper card for encouragement or discourage- 
ment. No system is absolutely perfect; this I 
think comes nearer to perfection than any other, 
because it gives you a longer list of possible cards 
any of which will say what you mean ; because it 
can be used in following as well as in discard; 
and because it permits you degrees of insistence. 
If you discard a seven, an eight, or a nine, you 
want the suit ; if you discard a ten or a jack, you 
demand the suit; and if you discard a queen, a 
king, or an ace, you are screaming for the suit. 

Try it, and see if you don't like it. 



CHAPTER XVI 



DECISIONS 



Of the hundreds of decisions that have been 
referred to me during the past year, I have 
chosen a few of the most interesting. 

The first is from Amherst, Mass. : 

"A rather pretty little question arose in a 
game where Rule 52 (Whist Club of New York, 
and printed in your Auction High-Lights) was 
called into use. Y had made a bid of 'four 
nullos' (a fool bid, but that is not the point); 
B passed; Z (Y's partner) did not want nullos, 
but the bid was so high that he was compelled to 
pass; A passed. Z-Y were delighted that the 
nullo-bid was not doubled. 

" After deliberation, A changed his mind and 
wanted to double. Z asked him if he passed in 
good faith. A answered that he did, but that 
under Law 52 he had a right to change his mind. 

203 



204 Nvillo-AAiction 

Z claimed that if this were allowed it would be 
possible for B (A's partner) to hold up his lead a 
long time, and A might then be able to change 
his mind as often as he pleased, with nothing to 
stop him but the play of B's card. Of course, had 
A made any declaration but 'pass/ Y might 
re-enter the bidding. But Y was in a hole, and 
whatever he did would take deliberation. 

"When A passed, Y was debarred from doing 
anything, and B might delay his lead until A 
got the idea that it would be a good thing to 
change his mind and double. A claimed that, 
although he passed 'in good faith,' his pass 
might be called 'an inadvertent bid.' Z 
claimed that .it could not. We agreed to leave 
it to you. I wish also to say that nullos have 
made Auction the finest game in the world." 

You see the trouble arising from the wording 
of Law 52, and the advantage it gave A-B. Y 
made a poor bid; B, Z, and A passed; Y could 
say nothing to clinch A's "pass" and to prevent 
his changing it to the dreaded double, because he 
had no further chance to speak. He could not 
clinch it by a lead because the lead was B's. 



Decisions 205 

Everything was A-B's. B could delay his lead 
indefinitely, A could reconsider as often as he 
chose, and Y-Z could do nothing, being debarred 
from both speech and action. 

A's claim while technically within the letter 
of the law is certainly opposed to its spirit ; and 
only the loose wording of the law allows it a 
moment's consideration. The bidding is closed 
after three consecutive passes. But equally of 
course the last speaker may always technically 
claim that his bid was " inadvertent,' ' and may 
change it if no one else has spoken, or played. 

Who shall define " inadvertent " ? It might 
mean, "I spoke too hastily, and named the wrong 
suit, or bid too much. As no one has spoken, I 
will therefore alter my suit or lower my bid." 
Or it might mean, " I spoke too hastily and before 
I had taken sufficient stock of the possibilities of 
my hand. As no one has spoken, I will therefore 
change my pass to a double." 

A request for an explanation of this same law 
(Law 52) came from an Englishman in Saskat- 
chewan : 

"The dealer bid 'one club.' The next player 



206 N\illo-AAiction 

was weighing his hand before bidding, when the 
dealer, having discovered on further investiga- 
tion of his hand that it held a better suit than 
clubs, said: 'No, I'll bid a heart.' We mildly 
protested that this was hardly in order, but on 
consulting the rules we found this amazing law, 
as laid down by the Whist Club of New York 
(Law 52). 

" Who, may I ask, is to define that word 'in- 
advertent,' and where might it not lead? If a 
player 'inadvertently' drops a card he is penal- 
ized. If he ' inadvertently ' underbids his hand he 
is penalized. And yet the law permits him 'in- 
advertently' to bid two, three, or all five suits, 
thus conveying infinitely more information than 
any of the above breaches and nothing happens 
to him. The thing is simply absurd. 

" I quite understand the cases it is intended to 
cover, but the point is that nearly all penalties 
are occasioned by carelessness, and why this 
particular piece of carelessness should be con- 
doned in preference to any other I cannot for the 
life of me understand. 

"P. S. — Curiously enough, since writing the 



Decisions 207 

above, another similar case has arisen. My 
partner — a very good player — dealt and bid 'a 
no-trump/ It passed to fourth-hand, who said, 
'Two diamonds.' My partner said, 'Pass,' then 
suddenly changed his mind and said, ' Three 
clubs.' We protested and called the hand off, 
but, according to the American rules, it was 
perfectly in order. " 

The English law covering a like situation 
reads: "A declaration once made cannot be 
altered (except in the case of under-bidding, as 
provided by the rules)." And that, it seems to 
me, is the proper ruling. 

I have always wondered greatly at the latitude 
permitted by Law 52 ; it is intended, I suppose, to 
cover those cases when a player names one suit, 
intending to name another; or when he bids more 
than he need and discovers his own mistake 
before any one else discovers it. But I cannot see 
why he should be so privileged, even then. 

These two questions are from Albuquerque: 

1st. "Z is playing no-trumps; A leads and B 
(fourth-hand) takes the trick; while B is study- 
ing Dummy, preparatory to leading, — A inad- 



208 Nvrilo-Aviction 

vertently leads again; B protests that it is his 
lead; Z-Y declare that they want the lead to 
stand, and that it is optional with them to say 
whether it shall do so. Are they right?" 

No. A's card is either an exposed card, and 
must be laid face-up, on the board subject to the 
call of the Declarant, in which case B has a right 
to his lead; or, Z may permit A to return his 
card to his hand, and may call a suit from B. 
The Declarant could refuse to accept a wrong lead, 
but he cannot insist on retaining one. 

2d. * ' The Declarant takes the first trick in his 
T)wn hand, and leads. He plays from Dummy, 
before second-hand has played and then (while 
second-hand is still thinking) the Declarant 
wants to replace Dummy's card, claiming it was 
played out of turn. Can he do this? " 

No, a touched card in Dummy is a played 
card, under the American rules. The Declarant 
has no right to shove Dummy's cards in and out. 
If he plays ahead of his turn he must abide by his 
play. 

This comes from Johnstown : 

"Three or four tricks have already been 



Decisions 209 

played. It is the Declarant's lead from his own 
hand, but he pulls a high card from Dummy, 
His opponent, to the left, immediately says, 
'wrong side/ but before the words have left 
his mouth his partner has trumped with a lone 
king. The Declarant then pushes back Dummy's 
card, leads a small trump from his own hand, 
puts up Dummy's ace of trumps, and catches the 
lone king, which has been exposed. Is this 
permissible? Or, what should have been done? 
It has caused considerable argument." 

Law 77 reads: "If the declarer lead out of 
turn, either from his own hand or Dummy, he 
incurs no penalty, but he may not rectify the 
error unless directed to do so by an adversary. 
If the second-hand play, the lead is accepted.'" 

When the Declarant makes a mistake, it is not 
for an adversary to help him. It is always best 
for the adversary who will play last on the trick, 
to wait and see whether his partner is advan- 
taged by the error. 

This is from Vermont : 

"We were playing Auction with nullos count- 
ing ten. Z dealt and bid 'a no-trump'; A 
14 



210 N\illo-A.\iction 

said 'two royals'; Y, 'three diamonds'; B, 'two 
nullos,' which, being only 20 would not beat 
three diamonds (21). It was up to Z; A said, 
'Are you going to make B go up to three nullos, 
or are you going to play your three diamonds?' 
Z answered, 'Neither; I am going to bid three 
no-trumps.' A then bid 'four nullos'; Y said, 
'four no-trumps'; B and Z passed; A, 'five 
nullos'; Y and B passed; Z doubled, and the 
bidding closed. Z led. A threw down the hand 
calling for a new deal because Z had (so he 
claimed) led out of turn. He held that as long 
as Z had not forced B to raise his insufficient bid, 
that bid did not count; that, therefore, he (A) 
was the first nullo-bidder, and that Y, not Z, was 
the proper leader." 

A was wrong. The moment a bid is covered, it 
stands as good, even though it be insufficient. 
Z's bid of "three no-trumps" legitimatized B's 
insufficient bid of "two nullos." B was there- 
fore the original nullo-bidder, and Z was the 
proper leader. 

Moreover, the Declarant cannot call for a new 
deal simply because the wrong adversary leads. 



Decisions 



211 



That point has been explained earlier in this 

chapter. 

This comes from Rancagua, Chile: 

"It is the beginning of the rubber-game; A-B 

are 300 to the good, on the honor-score; and 

these are the cards : 





P 


7653 






* 


A 10 8 7 6 4 







6 






* 


J 10 




9a 




Y 


9 K98 


+ 5 


A 


B 


dfr KQ932 


KJ 53 






<> Q10 7 4 


4 AK98764 




Z 


♦ 5 




S 


Q J 10 4 2 






* 


J 









A982 






* 


Q32 





" Actual bidding ran thus: Z, 'a spade'; A, 
'a royal'; Y, 'two clubs'; B and Z, 'No'; A, 
'two royals'; Y, 'three clubs'; A, 'three royals' 
closed." 

Y led the six of diamonds, Dummy played the 



212 Nullo- Auction 

four, Z the ace, and A the trey. The point in 
discussion was Z's proper return-lead. 

Of course, Y wanted a diamond, but I cannot 
see why Z need be expected to give it. The rule 
of eleven showed that there would be five dia- 
monds higher than the six-spot held against Y, 
— provided he had led fourth-best. With six 
diamonds higher than the six-spot shown on the 
table and in his own hand, Z knew the lead could 
not be fourth-best. It must be short, but not 
necessarily a singleton. 

It might be the higher of two. With the four 
played from Dummy, the trey from A, and the 
deuce in Z's own hand, there was still the five- 
spot to account for. It might lie with Y as 
easily as with A. 

Again, it might be that Y's clubs on which he 
had bid were in a combination which must be 
led to. They might be headed by the ace-queen, 
and he might have led from a weak suit, hoping 
to throw his partner in, so as to get a club-lead 
through the Declarant's hand. 

The fact that the king of clubs was shown in 
Dummy's hand would nullify the advantage of 



Decisions 213 

Z's return club-lead, even provided Y held ace- 
queen. Nevertheless, I think Z had a right to his 
singleton lead, in the hope of a ruff. He could 
not know that A would over-ruff, and his (Z's) 
queen of trumps was in a bad position and might 
never take legitimately. 

. Either the club or the diamond was a correct 
return lead from Z. Neither could be fairly 
criticized. They evidently know good Auction 
in Rancagua ! 



CHAPTER XVII 

THE QUESTION OF HONORS 

Scientific Auction players are inclining more 
and more to the belief that honors should not be 
scored. They say it is like giving a man money, 
and then paying him for having it. If a player 
holds all the high cards of his suit, the mere fact 
that he holds them is a tremendous advantage 
to him. Why, then, should he be given an extra 
score on the honor-column for a piece of luck for 
which he is not personally responsible, when the 
earning power of his high cards should be luck 
enough in itself? 

Again, honors sometimes pervert the bidding. 
Every card-hand holds certain intrinsic possi- 
bilities; to obtain the highest form of Auction, 
every hand should be played by the person whose 
cards best warrant it; he should be forced to bid 
as high as possible, and then to buckle down and 

214 



THe Question of Honors 215 

work hard to pull off his bid — the result being 
sometimes success and sometimes defeat. The 
state of the score should be the only thing that 
would warrant any player in voluntarily assum- 
ing certain defeat; he would then be choosing a 
small loss in preference to a big one. 

But the moment a player bids to his honors 
alone, knowing that he cannot score in points, 
but that his honors will wipe out his losses, he 
makes a violent assault on the real beauty of the 
game. It is poor Auction to play his bad hand 
when there is another hand at the table which is 
capable of winning by sheer force of skill. The 
intrinsic possibilities of the card-combinations 
are butchered and distorted. 

The man who can say, "I think my hand 
combined with my partner's is worth four-odd 
in hearts, if I make no mistakes and have aver- 
age luck, " is the man who should play that hand , 
unless there is a better at the table, or unless the 
score demands that the players choose between 
a small loss and a greater one. 

But when a man says: "This hand isn't worth 
a picayune, but it holds 90 honors, so I am going 



216 Niallo- Auction 

to play it even if I go down two or three' 1 — the 
beauty and enjoyment of that particular hand is 
lost. There is no real skill in it. 

Of course, we all play such hands. As long 
as honors exist it is necessary. No one can 
throw away 90 points if he knows his adversary 
is going to lose no chance to harvest them. But 
if they didn't exist everyone would be forced 
to play to the best real possibilities of his 
hand. 

I should be rather sorry to part with honors. 
They have always existed, and, as far as my 
feelings go, I fear I am a sad " standpatter. " 
But my reason shows me how tremendously the 
game that I love is benefited by each step away 
from luck and toward skill. I have allied myself 
firmly with all pro-skill, anti-luck movements, 
and I can see the tremendous fairness in the 
arguments against honors. 

Points and penalties (and the rubber-value, 
because it is achieved by points and by hard 
work) are really the only things that should 
count. 

What we resist to-day we accept to-morrow; 



THe Question of Honors 217 

we grow accustomed to it the next day, and in an 
incredibly short time we look back aghast at 
what once satisfied us. This is the history of all 
progress. 



CHAPTER XVIII 



THE REVOKE 



Why should a revoke be more expensive to 
one side than to the other? 

Formerly it was not. If the Declarant de- 
tected one of his adversaries in a revoke he 
might choose between three tricks or their 
equivalent, 150 honor- points ; that is, he might 
have the value of three tricks above the line or 
below it. 

If either adversary detected a revoke on the 
part of the Declarant, the adversaries might not 
take three tricks, because adversaries can never 
score below the line; but they might take the 
value of three tricks above the line, 150 honor- 
points. 

Last autumn this law was altered. As it now 
stands, the Declarant may still take his three 
tricks in case of a revoke, or (if he prefers) 100 

218 



THe Revohe 219 

honor-points. He would rarely hesitate, I fancy, 
in choosing the tricks. But the poor adversaries 
may take but 100 honor-points as their reward for 
a detected revoke. In other words, they may 
have but the value of two tricks, while the Declarant 
may have three. 

The logic of this change is made even more 
incomprehensible by the new law that Dummy 
may now call attention to a revoke. That is an 
improvement, and is a point for which I have been 
clamoring for years. But I did not foresee that 
when it came it would be accompanied by this 
astonishing discrepancy in the revoke penalty. 

Dummy sits there doing nothing. He can 
help protect his partner from a revoke by asking 
if that partner really lacks the suit which he has 
just refused. Dummy, having no hand to play, 
no cards to manipulate, can sit and watch the 
adversaries for a revoke. If he discovers one, it 
means three tricks for him and his partner. 

The adversaries, both of whom are forced to 
play, have less leisure to watch for a revoke. 
Yet, if they do detect one, their reward is but 
100, the value of two tricks instead of three. 



220 Nullo-A.viction 

The moment I read this new law, I was struck 
by its lack of logic. Had I been its creator, I 
could not have received more protests concerning 
it. The burden of all these protests was this: 
the revoke penalty should have been increased 
instead of decreased. And so say I. 

Nothing is so upsetting as a revoke. Nothing 
is so profitable as an intentional one. A man was 
playing "four royals" doubled and redoubled. 
The losses would be 200 a trick ; the adversaries 
had a cross-ruff, on which they were using their 
little trumps, and he stood to lose four more 
tricks than he should, 800 points. By coming in, 
he could exhaust the adverse trumps, and then 
make his side-aces and side-kings, in place of 
having them ruffed. 

He deliberately refused to follow to one of the 
side suits, trumped with a high trump, pulled 
trumps, made his side-cards and his contract, 
and showed down his revoking card on the thir- 
teenth round. Of course, he could not score on 
the hand ; but as he had made his contract, the 
adversaries' profits were cut down to 100 for the 
revoke, in place of the 800 which they should 



THe RevoKe 221 

have scored had the hand been fairly played. 
This is a true story, and that man saved 700 
points by a deliberate revoke. 

As intentional revokes can be so profitable, 
the revoke penalty should be increased. Penal- 
ties are for preventing carelessness and for pro- 
tecting honest players against dishonest ones. 

And since revokes are as upsetting to one 
side as to the other, both sides should suffer 
equally for committing the error. Three tricks 
for one side and two tricks for the other is emi- 
nently unfair. 

And, finally, if either side is to profit less than 
the other from a detected revoke, it should be 
the side of the Declarant, who has an unem- 
ployed partner to protect him and to detect the 
opponents. 



CHAPTER XIX 

PARTIAL-HAND PROBLEMS 

It has been said that when eight rounds of an 
Auction-hand have been played, every player at 
the table should be able to place the remaining 
twenty cards absolutely and accurately. In 
other words, the last five rounds of every hand 
should be exactly the same as an "open" hand. 

I do not agree with this in the least. There are 
plenty of hands where it can be done, of course; 
but there are certainly plenty more where it can- 
not. And I should greatly like to see it put up to 
the players who make the claim. 

The big cards can nearly always be placed, of 
course — the aces and faces — and even cards 
considerably lower than those. But all the rules 
in the world (including the rule of eleven), all 
the acumen, the memory, the inference, and the 

222 



Partial-Hand Problems 223 

observation, will not enable any one always to 
place unerringly the final twenty cards of a 
hand. 

Again, it has been said that all vital plays — 
the plays that land game or lose it — are made 
during the last five rounds. And again, I dis- 
agree. Plenty of games are lost on the very first 
round. A game may be lost wherever a mistake 
may occur, and mistakes may occur anywhere. 
And yet, — there is a very large grain of truth 
in both of these statements. 

At the close of the eighth round we should all 
know approximately the distribution of the re- 
maining cards. Sometimes we should even know 
it accurately. Also, the play is likely to become 
more concentrated on the last five rounds; with 
so many cards accounted for, more scope is given 
for brilliant and unusual play. 

Therefore it is, that the problems of open 
hands, and partial hands, are useful. On those 
occasions when we are able to place the remaining 
cards, we can reason out the solutions just as 
though the hand was open. The only difference 
is that we cannot actually play the cards until 



224 Nullo-Auction 

after our decision is made — we must imagine 
them played. 

It has been argued that partial -hand problems 
are " all tricks. " If they covered situations that 
could be handled in the usual way, they would 
be no problems at all. But we all know that while 
rules must be obeyed in ninety-nine cases out of 
a hundred, the hundredth situation does some- 
times arise and the rules must then be broken. 

These problems help one to recognize the 
1 ' hundredth situation. ' ' And nearly every trick- 
problem covers some great principle that can 
be profitably marked for future use. 

Here are three of the cleverest partial-hand 
problems I have ever seen. Their solutions are 
given in the following chapter. 



Partial-Hand Problems 



225 



1st 





V 87 






4» A2 






J3 






♦ 




— 


Y 


V — 


4» J3 


A B 


*8 


Q5 




10 8 6 


♦ Q7 


Z 


4 J5 




tf 






4k 10 






AK» 






♦ l0 9 





Hearts are trumps, Z is to lead, and Z-Y want 
all of the six remaining tricks. How can they 
take them against any defense? 



15 



226 



Nullo- Auction 



2d 





V 


Q865 






* 


AQ J 10 















* 


K10 




9 AKJ 




Y 


tf 9 


4b 98632 


A 


B 


£ 754 


KQ 






10 9 54 


♦ — 




Z 


* Q? 




tf 


10 7 4 3 2 






* 


K 









J863 






♦ 







Hearts are trumps, Z is to lead, and Z-Y want 
eight of the ten remaining tricks, against any 
defense. 



Partial-Hand Problems 



227 



3d 





9 AK8 






*io 






54 






♦ — 




ty 10 6 3 


Y 


tf QJ 


*8 
QJ 


A B 


* K 

AK 


* — 


Z 


♦ — 




^7 95 






Jft A2 












♦ 43 



Royals are trumps. Y leads. And Z-Y must 
take all six tricks against any defense. 



CHAPTER XX 



SOLUTIONS 



ISt 





C? 87 




. 


& A2 




< 


J3 






♦ — 




<? — 


Y 


9 


4» J3 


A B 


*8 


Q5 




10 8 6 


♦ Q 


Z 


A J 5.;- 




V 






*io 






K9 






A 10 9 





Hearts are trumps, Z is to lead, and Z-Y 
want all of the six remaining tricks. The hand 
was sent me with the word that it had puzzled 

228 



Soultions 229 

clubs both here and abroad, and the query as to 
whether it was " sound/ ' 

Z leads his king of diamonds, throwing 
Dummy's jack. He must do this in order to 
unblock for his own nine-spot later in the hand, 
when he wants to finesse the diamonds from 
Dummy and through B. If Dummy retained 
the jack, Z couldn't get into his own hand with 
the nine-spot. 

Z's next lead is the nine of spades. It doesn't 
matter whether A covers or not; Z trumps in 
Dummy. 

He then leads the eight of hearts, in order to 
force discards. Z, himself, will not be hurt by a 
discard ; he has a perfectly useless card to throw 
— his ten of clubs. He can make his club-ace 
anyhow, because the lead is already in Dummy- 
Therefore the club-ten is superfluous. But A 
will be seriously hurt by the discard; he must 
do one of three things: discard a club and es- 
tablish Y's deuce; discard a diamond and make 
Z's later diamond-finesse good; or discard the 
leading spade. 

Z has forced him to this position by the first 



230 N\illo-Auction 

two leads ; he wants A to discard from one of the 
two vital suits (diamonds or spades) before he 
himself discards from either of those suits. Posi- 
tion is against him, and unless he retained that 
useless ten of clubs for a first discard he would be 
forced to make a vital discard before A did so. 
As I have said, it is necessary to his purpose and 
his future play that this first vital discard should 
be thrust upon A. Z will then model his later 
play on this discard. 

A's best discard is the spade-queen, because 
B holds the jack of spades; it matters not, how- 
ever, what A discards — Z makes his six rounds. 
B's discard on the trump-lead should be the 
eight of clubs. 

Z next leads the ace of clubs. If A has already 
thrown the queen of spades and B now throws 
the jack, Z's ten is good. If A has played spade- 
queen and B plays a diamond, both of Z's 
diamonds will be good. If A has thrown the 
diamond-queen, whether B now plays the spade 
or the diamond, Z's diamonds are good; he can 
finesse Dummy's trey through B's ten-eight up 
to his own ace-nine. He therefore throws his 



Solutions 231 

spade. And if A's first discard was a club, 
Dummy's deuce is established and Z has no 
trouble at all. 

The point is that A must be forced to discard 
one spade, one club, or one diamond before Z 
discards anything vital. Z's second discard 
depends on A's first one. 

If Z chooses a spade for his first lead he fails 
to prepare the diamond situation. A still has 
two diamonds; if he discards the low one and 
retains the queen (on Z's third-round trump-lead) 
he can force Z into his own hand and make him 
lead diamonds to B; Z will then lose the sixth 
round, thus: 

First round — Z, nine of spades; A, seven of 
spades; Y, seven of hearts; B, five of spades. 

Second round — Y, eight of hearts; B, eight of 
clubs; Z, ten of clubs; A, five of diamonds. Z 
must now lead the ace of clubs, or he will never 
get back to do it. 

Third round — Y, ace of clubs; B, jack of 
spades; Z, ten of spades or nine of diamonds. 
And A's play depends on Z's; if Z throws his 
spade, A throws his; if Z throws a diamond, so 



232 Nullo-Aviction 

does A. The advantage of position is A's and 
not Z's. 

If they both throw diamonds, it is obvious 
that A takes the spade in the end. If they both 
throw spades, Y's next lead is the jack of dia- 
monds, which he is forced to take with the king, 
in order to keep A's queen from winning. And 
he will then have to lead from his own hand up 
to B's, and B's ten of diamonds will be good. 

And finally the only other lead in Z's hand, and 
apparently the most obvious one, is the ten of 
clubs. This deprives him of a superfluous card 
for his first discard; and, provided the adver- 
saries play properly, he cannot take more than 
five out of the six rounds. The lessons in this 
hand are, first: the throw of an unnecessarily 
high card, in order to unblock; and second, 
forcing the adversary to discard ahead of you. 



Solutions 



233 



2d 

9 Q865 
jf» AQJ10 

— 

4 K10 



9 AKJ 




Y 




tf * 


ffr 98632 


A 




B 


A 754 


KQ 








10 954 


♦ — 




Z 




4* Q 7 



^ 107 4 32 

4i K 

J86 3 

♦ — 

Hearts are trumps, Z is to lead, and Z-Y want 
eight of the ten remaining tricks. That means 
that A will take with his ace and king of trumps 
(as he must, of necessity), but that he will take 
no other trick. His jack must never take, and 
B must take no tricks at all. 

The first noticeable thing is that Z holds more 
trumps than he needs. He won't mind wasting 
a few. 

The second thing is that his jack of diamonds 
will be high on the third round. 



234 Nxillo-Aviction 

The third is that his highest trump is, most 
conveniently, just one spot higher than B's. 
If B trumps the fourth round of clubs, Z can 
over- trump. And there is no other suit which 
B can trump. 

The next is that, by leading diamonds up to 
the long diamond-hand (B), and clubs up to the 
long club-hand (A), Z can establish a very pretty 
cross-ruff that cannot be over-ruffed. 

All this for Z. Considering Y's hand, Z realizes 
that Y must never lead either trumps or spades 
up to A. If he led trumps he would establish 
A's jack; and if he led spades A would over- 
trump Z. Therefore, the only thing Y can lead 
is clubs; if he continues to hold the lead with 
those clubs, the time will come when they will be 
gone. Then he will have to do one of two for- 
bidden things — lead spades or trumps. 

The only way to obviate this difficulty is for Z 
to trump his partner's good clubs with some of his 
own superfluous hearts. Did he not do this, he 
would have to discard diamonds on them. And 
he needs those diamonds in his business; he 
needs them to lead. 



Solutions 235 

If Z didn't have diamonds to lead, he would 
have to lead trumps. That looks at first glance 
like a good thing to do; Dummy's queen sits 
nicely over A's jack. And if A were obliging 
enough to play his jack, just to get it killed, it 
would all work very nicely. But A won't; his 
hopes are centered on that jack. Why should 
he sacrifice it? A will come in with the king of 
trumps. Y's five will fall, and A will force Y 
with a diamond. That cuts Y's trumps to two; 
one more diamond force and his trump-queen is 
all alone and a prey to A's ace. 

Three things become apparent from this: 
first, that Z must never lead trumps, but must 
allow Y's trumps to make separately from his 
own; second, that if he does not retain all his 
diamonds, he will not only unguard his jack but 
will have nothing to lead save trumps; and, 
third, that A must not be allowed to get in during 
the early rounds, or he will take matters into 
his own hands and use the diamond force. And 
the only way to keep him out is to avoid trump- 
leads. 

But two leads remain to Z — diamond or club. 



236 N\illo-A.viction 

It appears later that the diamond lands the lead 
in the wrong place as the hand progresses. 

Z leads club-king, taking with Dummy's ace. 
Leads club-ten and trumps. Leads small dia- 
mond and trumps in Dummy. Leads jack of 
clubs and trumps it. Leads diamond-six and 
trumps in Dummy. Leads club-queen and 
trumps (using his ten, if B trumps). And then 
leads the jack of diamonds, which is now high. 
A holds but the nine of clubs (which is high) 
and his three trumps. If he discards the club, Z 
discards Dummy's small spade and leads another 
diamond (you see now why he needed all his 
diamonds). If A trumps with the jack, Y over- 
trumps and leads king of spades. And if A 
trumps high, Y discards and holds a protected 
queen of trumps. A's next lead of the club is 
trumped by Z, who leads the diamond through 
A, up to Y's two trumps. 

Of course it is a "trick" to trump all one's 
own taking cards ; but look at the subtlety of the 
situation. Z needs his trumps less than his 
diamonds. And I need hardly warn players not to 
make it a general rule to trump their own tricks. 



Solutions 



237 



3d 





C? AK8 




*io 




54 




* — 


£? 10 6 3 


Y 


* 8 




QJ 


A B 


♦ — 






Z 




V 95 




Jft A2 








9 QJ 

* KQ 
AK 

♦ — 



♦ 43 

Royals are tramps. Y leads. And Z-Y must 
take all six tricks against any defense. 

Y leads the king of hearts and Z throws his 
nine. The entire solution depends on this play 
of Z's, as it prepares the way for a later heart- 
finesse from Z's hand, through A's ten-spot, and 
up to Y's king-eight. Did Z not unblock hearts 
on this first round he could never enter Y's hand 
with the eight-spot. 

Y's next lead is a diamond, which Z trumps. 



238 N\illo-A\iction 

He then leads his remaining trump to force 
discards. Y discards club-ten. If B discards a 
diamond he makes Y's little diamond good; if he 
discards a club, he makes both Z's clubs good, 
and if he discards his heart he permits Z to finesse 
hearts through A's ten-six, and up to Y's ace- 
eight. 



CHAPTER XXI 

DUPLICATE AUCTION 

Duplicate Auction, or "Compass" Auction 
is thoroughly described in my first book, The 
Fine Points of Auction Bridge. In playing, it is 
impossible to count games or rubbers. The 
score is kept on a long sheet, the points made on 
each hand being scored below the line, and the 
penalties above. At the close of the play the 
entire gross score is added, points and penalties 
together, with no extra count for rubber. 

This being so, it often paid a player to bid to 
his honors alone. The points above the line 
were just as valuable as those below, since the 
latter were not enhanced by any rubber-winning 
capacity. The bidding suffered. 

A remedy for this weakness suddenly occurred 
to me one summer day about two years ago. 
If the rubber is worth 250, a game is worth 125, 

239 



240 N\illo--AAiction 

since a game is half of a rubber. I determined to 
give 125 honor points to every player who made 
30 or more trick points in one hand (game in the 
hand). 

The improvement was marked and immediate. 
Every one began to bid to the trick possibilities 
of his hand ; every hand was a proper effort on the 
part of the Declarant to go game in the hand, 
and an equally proper effort on the part of the 
adversaries to foil such efforts. 

Since that day two years ago my coterie and 
I have always played Duplicate Auction in this 
way. I mentioned the method in the columns of 
the Times in my first book — The Fine Points of 
Auction Bridge — and to a member of the com- 
mittee of the Whist Club (New York). It was 
considered so valuable that, to my very great 
delight, it was formally adopted by the Whist 
Club, in December, 191 3, is now embodied in the 
laws of that club, and is played universally. So 
much for a flash of inspiration on a summer's 
day! 



CHAPTER XXII 



A PLEA 



I have a plea to make! Not for nullos, — 
they don't need it, — but for self-restraint in their 
use. I beg of my readers to treat the new suit 
rationally. Nullos are not patent, adjustable, 
self -regulators, — warranted to fit any hand 
successfully! If too greatly abused, they will be 
killed, and we shall revert to nullo-less Auction, 
— which will be a very long step backward ! 

Numbers of good players have told me that, 
while they believed absolutely in nullos, they 
dreaded to play them because of their partners. 
It is my sincere hope that all of my readers will 
prove to be partners that are universally desired, 
not partners that are universally shunned. To 
be welcomed as a partner and feared as an ad- 
versary, is to have reached the top rung of the 
Auction ladder. 

16 241 



The 
Laws of Auction 

As Adopted by 

The Whist Club 

Also 
Laws of Three-Handed and Duplicate 

Together with the 

Etiquette of the Game 



COPRIGHT, 1913, BY 

THE WHIST CLUB, NEW YORK 



At a meeting of the Board of Managers of 
The Whist Club the following laws applicable to 
Auction were approved and adopted. 

The Whist Club. 

New York, 

November, 1913. 






244 



CONTENTS 






PAGE 


The Rubber 247 


Scoring 










. 247 


Cutting 










. 249 


Forming Tables 










. 249 


Cutting Out 










. 250 


Right of Entry 










. 250 


Shuffling . 










. 251 


The Deal. 










. 251 


A New Deal 










. 252 


The Declaration 










. 253 


Doubling and Redoubling 






. 257 


Dummy .... 






. 258 


Cards Exposed Before Play 






. 259 


Cards Exposed During Play . 






. 260 


Leads out of Turn . 






. 262 


Cards Played in Error 








. 262 


The Revoke 








. 263 


General Rules 








. 265 


New Cards 








. 266 


Bystanders 








. 266 


Etiquette of Auction 








267 


The Laws of Three-Handed Auction 


. 268 


The Laws of Duplic 


ate 1 


^UCTK 


DN 




. 271 



245 



THE LAWS OF AUCTION 



THE RUBBER 



1. The partners first winning two games win the 
rubber. When the first two games decide the rubber, a 
third is not played. 

SCORING 

2. Each side has a trick score and a score for all other 
counts, generally known as the honor score. In the trick 
score the only entries made are points for tricks won (see 
Law 3), which count both toward the game and in the 
total of the rubber. 

All other points, including honors, penalties, slam, little 
slam, and undertricks, are recorded in the honor score, 
which counts only in the total of the rubber. 

3. When the declarer wins the number of tricks bid 
or more, each above six counts on the trick score: two 
points when spades are trumps, six when clubs are trumps, 
seven when diamonds are trumps, eight when hearts are 
trumps, nine when royal spades are trumps, and ten when 
the declaration is no-trump. 

4. A game consists of thirty points made by tricks 
alone. Every deal is played out, whether or not during 

247 



248 THe Laws of Auction 

it the game be concluded, and any points made (even if in 
excess of thirty) are counted. 

5. The ace, king, queen, knave, and ten of the trump 
suit are the honors; when no-trump is declared, the aces 
are the honors. 

6. Honors are credited to the original holders; they are 
valued as follows: 

WHEN A TRUMP IS DECLARED 
3* honors held between partners equal value of 2 tricks 



4 












4 


5 


" 


11 11 


i< 


1 1 


41 


5 


4 


11 


in 1 hand 


f 5th in 


1 1 


■1 


8 


4 




1. x .. 


j partner's 
[ hand 


it 


II 


9 


5 


11 


.1 T .. 




11 


II 


10 



WHEN NO TRUMP IS DECLARED 

3 aces held between partners count 30 

4 " M " 40 
4 " ' in one hand " 100 

*Frequently called "simple honors." 

7. Slam is made when partners take thirteen tricks.* 
It counts 40 points in the honor score. 

8. Little slam is made when partners take twelve 
tricks, f It counts 20 points in the honor score, 

9. The value of honors, slam, or little slam, is not 
affected by doubling or redoubling, 

* Law 84 prohibits a revoking side from scoring slam, and provides 
that tricks received by the declarer as penalty for a revoke shall not 
entitle him to a slam not otherwise obtained. 

t Law 84 prohibits a revoking side from scoring little slam, and pro- 
vides that tricks received by the declarer as penalty for a revoke shall 
not entitle him to a little slam not otherwise obtained. If a declarer 
bid 7 and take twelve tricks he counts 20 for little slam, although his 
declaration fails. 



THe Laws of Auction 249 

10. At the conclusion of a rubber the trick and honor 
scores of each side are added and 250 additional points 
added to the score of the winners of the rubber. The 
size of the rubber is the difference between the completed 
scores. If the score of the losers of the rubber exceed that of 
the winners, the losers win the amount of the excess. 

11. When a rubber is started with the agreement that 
the play shall terminate {i.e., no new deal shall commence) 
at a specified time, and the rubber is unfinished at that 
hour, the score is made up as it stands, 125 being added to 
the score of the winners of a game. A deal if started must 
be finished. 

12. A proved error in the honor score may be corrected 
at any time before the score of the rubber has been made 
up and agreed upon. 

13. A proved error in the trick score may be corrected 
at any time before a declaration has been made in the 
following game, or, if it occur in the final game of the 
rubber, before the score has been made up and agreed 
upon. 

CUTTING 

14. In cutting, the ace is the lowest card; between 
cards of otherwise equal value the heart is the lowest, the 
diamond next, the club next, and spade the highest. 

15. Every player must cut from the same pack. 

16. Should a player expose more than one card, the 
highest is his cut. 

FORMING TABLES 

17. Those first in the room have the prior right to 
play. Candidates of equal standing decide their order by 
cutting; those who cut lowest play first. 



250 XHe Laws of -A.\iction 

1 8. Six players constitute a complete table. 

19. After the table has been formed, the players cut to 
decide upon partners, the two lower play against the two 
higher. The lowest is the dealer, who has choice of cards 
and seats, and, having made his selection, must abide by 
it.* 

20. The right to succeed players as they retire is 
acquired by announcing the desire to do so, and such 
announcements, in the order made, entitle candidates to 
fill vacancies as they occur. 

CUTTING OUT 

21. If, at the end of a rubber, admission be claimed by 
one or two candidates, the player or players who have 
played the greatest number of consecutive rubbers with- 
draw; when all have played the same number, they cut 
to decide upon the outgoers; the highest are out.f 

RIGHT OF ENTRY 

22. At the end of a rubber a candidate is not entitled 
to enter a table unless he declare his intention before any 
player cut, either for partners, for a new rubber, or for 
cutting out. 

23. In the formation of new tables candidates who have 
not played at an existing table have the prior right of 
entry. Others decide their right to admission by cutting. 

24. When one or more players belonging to an existing 
table aid in making up a new one, which cannot be formed 
without him or them, he or they shall be the last to cut 
out. 

* He may consult his partner before making his decision. 
f See Law 14 as to value of cards in cutting. 



THe Laws of -Auction 251 

m 

25. A player belonging to one table who enters an- 
other, or announces a desire to do so, forfeits his right at 
his original table, unless the new table cannot be formed 
without him, in which case he may retain his position at 
his original table by announcing his intention to return as 
soon as his place at the new table can be filled. 

26. Should a player leave a table during the progress 
of a rubber, he may, with the consent of the three others, 
appoint a substitute to play during his absence; but such 
appointment becomes void upon the conclusion of the 
rubber, and does not in any way affect the rights of the 
substitute. 

27 . If a player break up a table, the others have a 
prior right of entry elsewhere. 

SHUFFLING 

28. The pack must not be shuffled below the table nor 
so the face of any card be seen. 

29. The dealer's partner must collect the cards from 
the preceding deal and has the right to shuffle first. Each 
player has the right to shuffle subsequently. The dealer 
has the right to shuffle last, but should a card or cards be 
seen during his shuffling or while giving the pack to be 
cut, he must reshuffle. 

30. After shuffling, the cards, properly collected, must 
be placed face downward to the left of the next dealer, 
where they must remain untouched until the end of the 
current deal. 

THE DEAL 

3 1 . Players deal in turn ; the order of dealing is to the left . 

32. Immediately before the deal, the player on the 
dealer's right cuts, so that each packet contains at least 



252 THe Laws of -Auction 

four cards. If, in or after cutting, and prior to the be- 
ginning of the deal, a card be exposed, or if any doubt 
exist as to the place of the cut, the dealer must reshuffle 
and the same player must cut again. 

33. After the pack has been properly cut, it should 
not be reshuffled or recut except as provided in Law 32. 

34. Should the dealer shuffle after the cut, his adver- 
saries may also shuffle and the pack must be cut again. 

35. The fifty-two cards must be dealt face downward. 
The deal is completed when the last card is dealt. 

36. In the event of a misdeal, the same pack must be 
dealt again by the same player. 

A NEW DEAL 

37. There must be a new deal : 

(a) If the cards be not dealt, beginning at the 

dealer's left, into four packets one at a time 
and in regular rotation. 

(b) If, during a deal, or during the play, the pack 

be proved incorrect. 

(c) If, during a deal, any card be faced in the pack 

or exposed, on, above, or below the table. 

(d) If more than thirteen cards be dealt to any 

player.* 

(e) If the last card do not come in its regular order 

to the dealer. 
(/) If the dealer omit having the pack cut, deal 
out of turn or with the adversaries' cards, 
and either adversary call attention to the 
fact before the end of the deal and before 
looking at any of his cards. 

* This error, whenever discovered, renders a new deal necessary. 



THe Laws of Auction 253 

38. Should a correction of any offense mentioned in 
37 / not be made in time, or should an adversary who has 
looked at any of his cards be the first to call attention to 
the error, the deal stands, and the game proceeds as if the 
deal had been correct, the player to the left dealing the 
next. When the deal has been with the wrong cards, 
the next dealer may take whichever pack he prefers . 

39. If, prior to the cut for the following deal, a pack be 
proved incorrect, the deal is void, but all prior scores stand. * 

The pack is not incorrect when a missing card or cards 
are found in the other pack, among the quitted tricks, 
below the table, or in any other place which makes it 
possible that such card or cards were part of the pack 
during the deal. 

40. Should three players have their proper number of 
cards, the fourth, less, the missing card or cards, if found, 
belong to him, and he, unless Dummy, is answerable for 
any established revoke or revokes he may have made just 
as if the missing card or cards had been continuously in 
his hand. When a card is missing, any player may search 
the other pack, the quitted tricks, or elsewhere for it. 

If before, during, or at the conclusion of play, one player 
hold more than the proper number of cards, and another 
less, the deal is void. 

41. A player may not cut, shuffle, or deal for his partner 
if either adversary object. 

THE DECLARATION 

42. The dealer, having examined his hand, must 
declare to win at least one odd trick, f either with a speci- 
fied suit, or at no-trump. 

* A correct pack contains exactly fifty-two cards, one of each 
denomination. t One trick more than six. 



254 TKe Laws of Auction 

43. After the dealer has declared, each player in turn, 
beginning on the dealer's left, must pass, make a higher 
declaration, double the last declaration, or redouble a 
declaration which has been doubled, subject to the pro- 
visions of Law 54. 

44. A declaration of a greater number of tricks in a 
suit of lower value, which equals the last declaration in 
value of points, is a higher declaration; e, g., a declaration 
of "three spades" is higher than "one club." 

45. A player in his turn may overbid the previous 
adverse declaration any number of times, and may also 
overbid his partner, but he cannot overbid his own declara- 
tion which has been passed by the three others. 

46. The player who makes the final declaration* must 
play the combined hands, his partner becoming Dummy, 
unless the suit or no-trump finally declared was bid by the 
partner before it was called by the final declarer, in which 
case the partner, no matter what bids have intervened, 
must play the combined hands. 

47. When the player of the two hands (hereinafter 
termed "the declarer") wins at least as many tricks as he 
declared, he scores the full value of the tricks won (see 
Law3).f 

47a. When the declarer fails to win as many tricks as he 
declares, neither he nor his adversaries score anything 
toward the game, but his adversaries score in their honor 
column 50 points for each undertrick («. e., each trick short 
of the number declared). If the declaration be doubled, 
the adversaries score 100 points; if redoubled, 200 points 
for each undertrick. 

* A declaration becomes final when it has been passed by three 
players. 

f For amount scored by declarer, if doubled, see Laws 53 and 56. 



THe Laws of Auction 255 

48. The loss on the dealer's original declaration of 
"one spade" is limited to 100 points, whether doubled 
or not, unless redoubled . Honors are scored as held. 

49. If a player make a declaration (other than passing) 
out of turn, either adversary may demand a new deal, or 
may allow such declaration to stand, in which case the bid- 
ding shall continue as if the declaration had been in turn. 

If a player pass out of turn, the order of the bidding is 
not affected, i. e., it is still the turn of the player to the 
left of the last declarer. The player who has passed out 
of turn may re-enter the bidding in his proper turn if the 
declaration he has passed be overbid or doubled. 

50. If a player make an insufficient or impossible 
declaration, either adversary may demand that it be 
penalized. The penalty for an insufficient declaration is 
that the bid is made sufficient in the declaration named and 
the partner of the declarer may not further declare unless 
an adversary subsequently bid or double. The penalty 
for an impossible declaration is that the bid is made seven 
in the suit named and the partner of the declarer may not 
further declare unless an adversary subsequently bid or 
double. Either adversary, instead of penalizing an im- 
possible declaration, may demand a new deal, or that the 
last declaration made on behalf of his partnership become 
the final declaration. 

50a. If a player who has been debarred from bidding 
under Laws 50 or 65, during the period of such prohibi- 
tion, make any declaration (other than passing), either 
adversary may decide whether such declaration stand, and 
neither the offending player nor his partner may further 
participate in the bidding even if the adversaries double 
or declare. 

506. A penalty for a declaration out of turn (see Law 



256 THe Laws of Auction 

49), an insufficient or impossible declaration (see Law 50), 
or a bid when prohibited (see Law 50a) may not be en- 
forced if either adversary pass, double, or declare before 
the penalty be demanded.* 

50c. Laws which give to either adversary the right to 
enforce a penalty, do not permit unlimited consultation. 
Either adversary may call attention to the offense and 
select the penalty, or may say, "Partner, you determine 
the penalty, " or words to that effect. Any other consulta- 
tion is prohibited, f and if it take place the right to demand 
any penalty is lost. The first decision made by either 
adversary is final and cannot be altered. 

51. At any time during the declaration, a question 
asked by a player concerning any previous bid must be 
answered, but, after the final declaration has been ac- 
cepted, if an adversary of the declarer inform his partner 
regarding any previous declaration, the declarer may call 
a lead from the adversary whose next turn it is to lead. If 
the Dummy give such information to the declarer, either 
adversary of the declarer may call a lead. A player, 
however, at any time may ask what declaration is being 
played and the question must be answered. 

52. A declaration legitimately made cannot be changed 
after the next player pass, declare, or double. Prior to 
such action a declaration inadvertently made may be 
corrected. If, prior to such correction, an adversary call 
attention to an insufficient or impossible declaration, it 
may not thereafter be corrected nor may the penalty be 
avoided. 

* When the penalty for an insufficient declaration is not demanded, 
the bid over which it was made may be repeated unless some higher 
bid have intervened. 

t The question, "Partner, will you select the penalty, or shall I?" 
is a form of consultation which is not permitted. 



THe Laws of Auction 257 

DOUBLING AND REDOUBLING 

53. Doubling and redoubling doubles and quadruples 
the value of each trick over six, but it does not alter the 
value of a declaration; e. g. t a declaration of "three clubs" 
is higher than "two royal spades" doubled or redoubled. 

54. Any declaration may be doubled and redoubled 
once, but not more; a player may not double his partner's 
declaration, nor redouble his partner's double, but he may 
redouble a declaration of his partner which has been 
doubled by an adversary. 

The penalty for redoubling more than once is 100 points 
in the adverse honor score or a new deal; for doubling a 
partner's declaration, or redoubling a partner's double 
it is 50 points in the adverse honor score. Either adver- 
sary may demand any penalty enforceable under this law. 

55. Doubling or redoubling reopens the bidding. 
When a declaration has been doubled or redoubled, any 
one of the three succeeding players, including the player 
whose declaration has been doubled, may, in his proper 
turn, make a further declaration of higher value. 

56. When a player whose declaration has been doubled 
wins the declared number of tricks, he scores a bonus of 
50 points in his honor score, and a further 50 points for 
each additional trick. When he or his partner has re- 
doubled, he scores 100 points for making the contract 
and an additional 100 for each extra trick. 

57. A double or redouble is a declaration, and a player 
who doubles or redoubles out of turn is subject to the 
penalty provided by Law 49. 

58. After the final declaration has been accepted, the 
play begins; the player on the left of the declarer leads. 

17 



258 THe Laws of Auction 

DUMMY 

59. As soon as the player on the left of the declarer 
leads, the declarer's partner places his cards face upward 
on the table, and the declarer plays the cards from that 
hand. 

60. The partner of the declarer has all the rights of a 
player (including the right to call attention to a lead from 
the wrong hand), until his cards are placed face upward 
on the table.* He then becomes the dummy, and takes 
no part whatever in the play, except that he has the right : 

(a) To call the declarer's attention to the fact that 

too many or too few cards have been played 
to a trick; 

(b) to correct an improper claim of either adversary; 

(c) to call attention to a trick erroneously taken by 

either side; 

(d) to participate in the discussion of any disputed 

question of fact after it has arisen between 
the declarer and either adversary ; 

(e) to correct an erroneous score; 

(/) to consult with and advise the declarer as to 
which penalty to exact for a revoke ; 

(g) to ask the declarer whether he have any of a 
suit he has renounced. 

The Dummy, if he have not intentionally looked at any 
card in the hand of a player, has also the following addi- 
tional rights: 

(h) To call the attention of the declarer to an es- 
tablished adverse revoke; 

* The penalty is determined by the declarer (see Law 66). 



THe Laws of Auction 259 

(i) to call the attention of the declarer to a card 
exposed by an adversary or to an adverse 
lead out of turn. 

61. Should the dummy call attention to any other 
incident in the play in consequence of which any penalty 
might have been exacted, the declarer may not exact such 
penalty. Should the Dummy avail himself of rights (h) 
or (i) , after intentionally looking at a card in the hand of a 
player, the declarer may not exact any penalty for the 
offense in question. 

62. If the Dummy, by touching a card or otherwise, 
suggest the play of one of his cards, either adversary may 
require the declarer to play or not to play such card. 

62a. If the dummy call to the attention of the declarer 
that he is about to lead from the wrong hand, either adver- 
sary may require that the lead be made from that hand. 

63. Dummy is not subject to the revoke penalty; if 
he revoke and the error be not discovered until the trick 
be turned and quitted, whether by the rightful winners or 
not, the trick must stand. 

64. A card from the declarer's hand is not played until 
actually quitted, but should he name or touch a card in 
the dummy, such card is played unless he say, " I arrange," 
or words to that effect. If he simultaneously touch two 
or more such cards, he may elect which to play. 

CARDS EXPOSED BEFORE PLAY 

65. After the deal and before the declaration has been 
finally determined, if any player lead or expose a card, his 
partner may not thereafter bid or double during that de- 
claration,* and the card is subject to call.f When the 

* See Law 50a. 

f If more than one card be exposed, all may be called. 



260 The Laws of Auction 

partner of the offending player is the original leader, the 
declarer may also prohibit the initial lead of the suit of 
the exposed card. 

66. After the final declaration has been accepted and 
before the lead, if the partner of the proper leader expose 
or lead a card, the declarer may treat it as exposed or may 
call a suit from the proper leader. A card exposed by the 
leader, after the final declaration and before the lead, is 
subject to call. 

CARDS EXPOSED DURING PLAY 

67. After the original lead, all cards exposed by the 
declarer's adversaries are liable to be called and must be 
left face upward on the table. 

68. The following are exposed cards: 

(1) Two or more cards played simultaneously; 

(2) a card dropped face upward on the table, even 

though snatched up so quickly that it cannot be 
named ; 

(3) a card so held by a player that his partner sees 

any portion of its face; 

(4) a card mentioned by either adversary as being 

held in his or his partner's hand. 

69. A card dropped on the floor or elsewhere below the 
table, or so held that it is seen by an adversary but not 
by the partner, is not an exposed card. 

70. Two or more cards played simultaneously by either 
of the declarer's adversaries give the declarer the right to 
call any one of such cards to the current trick and to treat 
the other card or cards as exposed. 

70a. Should an adversary of the declarer expose his last 



THe Laws of Auction 261 

card before his partner play to the twelfth trick, the two 
cards in his partner's hand become exposed, must be laid 
face upward on the table, and are subject to call. 

71. If, without waiting for his partner to play, either 
of the declarer's adversaries play or lead a winning card, 
as against the declarer and Dummy and continue (with- 
out waiting for his partner to play) to lead several such 
cards, the declarer may demand that the partner of the 
player in fault win, if he can, the first or any other of 
these tricks. The other cards thus improperly played are 
exposed. 

72. If either or both of the declarer's adversaries throw 
his or their cards face upward on the table, such cards are 
exposed and liable to be called; but if either adversary 
retain his hand, he cannot be forced to abandon it. Cards 
exposed by the declarer are not liable to be called. If the 
declarer say, "I have the rest," or any words indicating 
the remaining tricks or any number thereof are his, he 
may be required to place his cards face upward on the 
table. He is not then allowed to call any cards his ad- 
versaries may have exposed, nor to take any finesse not 
previously proven a winner unless he announce it when 
making his claim. 

73. If a player who has rendered himself liable to have 
the highest or lowest of a suit called (Laws 80, 86, and 92) 
fail to play as directed, or if, when called on to lead one 
suit, he lead another, having in his hand one or more cards 
of the suit demanded (Laws 66, 76, and 93), or if, when 
called upon to win or lose a trick, he fail to do so when he 
can (Laws 71, 80, and 92), or if, when called upon not to 
play a suit, he fail to play as directed (Laws 65 and 66), 
he is liable to the penalty for revoke (Law 84) unless such 
play be corrected before the trick be turned and quitted. 



262 THe Laws of Auction 

74. A player cannot be compelled to play a card which 
would oblige him to revoke. 

75. The call of an exposed card may be repeated until it 
be played. 

LEADS OUT OF TURN 

76. If either adversary of the declarer's lead out of 
turn, the declarer may either treat the card so led as 
exposed or may call a suit as soon as it is the turn of either 
adversary to lead. Should they lead simultaneously, the 
lead from the proper hand stands, and the other card is 
exposed. 

77. If the declarer lead out of turn, either from his 
own hand or Dummy, he incurs no penalty, but he may 
not rectify the error unless directed to do so by an adver- 
sary.* If the second-hand play, the lead is accepted. 

78. If an adversary of the declarer lead out of turn, 
and the declarer follow either from his own hand or Dummy, 
the trick stands. If the declarer before playing refuse 
to accept the lead, the leader may be penalized as provided 
in Law 76. 

79. If a player called on to lead a suit have none of it, 
the penalty is paid. 

CARDS PLAYED IN ERROR 

80. Should the fourth -hand, not being Dummy or 
declarer, play before the second, the latter may be required 
to play his highest or lowest card of the suit led, or to win 
or lose the trick. In such case, if the second-hand be void 
of the suit led, the declarer in lieu of any other penalty may 

* The rule in Law 50c as to consultations governs the right of adver- 
saries to consult as to whether such direction be given. 



THe Laws of Auction 263 

call upon the second-hand to play the highest card of any 
designated suit. If he name a suit of which the second- 
hand is void, the penalty is paid.* 

81. If any one, except Dummy, omit playing to a trick, 
and such error be not corrected until he has played to the 
next, the adversaries or either of them may claim a new 
deal; should either decide that the deal stand, the surplus 
card (at the end of the hand) is considered played to the 
imperfect trick, but does not constitute a revoke therein, f 

82. When any one, except Dummy, plays two or more 
cards to the same trick and the mistake is not corrected, he 
is answerable for any consequent revokes he may make. 
When the error is detected during the play, the tricks may 
be counted face downward, to see if any contain more 
than four cards; should this be the case, the trick which 
contains a surplus card or cards may be examined and such 
card or cards restored to the original holder. t 

THE REVOKE § 

83. A revoke occurs when a player, other than Dummy, 
holding one or more cards of the suit led, plays a card of a 
different suit. It becomes an established revoke when the 
trick in which it occurs is turned and quitted by the rightful 
winners (i.e., the hand removed from the trick after it has 
been turned face downward on the table), or when either 
the revoking player or his partner, whether in turn or 
otherwise, leads or plays to the following trick. 

84. The penalty for each established revoke is: 

* Should the declarer play third-hand before the second-hand.vthe 
fourth-hand may without penalty play before his partner. 

f As to the right of adversaries to consult, see Law 50c. 

+ Either adversary may decide which card shall be considered 
played to the trick which contains more than four cards. 

§ See Law 73. 



264 THe Laws of Auction 

(a) When the declarer revokes, he cannot score for 

tricks and his adversaries add 100 points to 
their score in the honor column, in addition 
to any penalty which he may have incurred 
for not making good his declaration. 

(b) When either of the adversaries revokes, the de- 

clarer may either add 100 points to his score 
in the honor column or take three tricks from 
his opponents and add them to his own.* 
Such tricks may assist the declarer to make 
good his declaration, but shall not entitle 
him to score any bonus in the honor column 
in case the declaration has been doubled or 
redoubled, nor to a slam or little slam not 
otherwise obtained. f 

(c) When, during the play of a deal, more than one 

revoke is made by the same side, the penalty 
for each revoke after the first is 100 points. 

The value of their honors is the only score that can be 
made by a revoking side. 

85. A player may ask his partner if he have a card of 
the suit which he has renounced; should the question be 
asked before the trick be turned and quitted, subsequent 
turning and quitting does not establish a revoke, and the 
error may be corrected unless the question be answered 
in the negative, or unless the revoking player or his 
partner have led or played to the following trick. 

86. If a player correct his mistake in time to save a 
revoke, any player or players who have followed him may 

* The Dummy may advise the declarer which penalty to exact, 
f The value of the three tricks, doubled or redoubted, as the case 
may be, is counted in the trick score. 



TKe Laws of Auction 265 

withdraw his or their cards and substitute others, and the 
cards so withdrawn are not exposed. If the player in 
fault be one of the declarer's adversaries, the card played 
in error is exposed, and the declarer may call it whenever 
he pleases, or he may require the offender to play his 
highest or lowest card of the suit to the trick, but this 
penalty cannot be exacted from the declarer. 

87. At the end of the play the claimants of a revoke 
may search all the tricks. If the cards have been mixed, 
the claim may be urged and proved if possible; but no 
proof is necessary and the claim is established if, after 
it is made, the accused player or his partner mix the 
cards before they have been sufficiently examined by the 
adversaries. 

88. A revoke cannot be claimed after the cards have 
been cut for the following deal. 

89. Should both sides revoke, the only score permitted 
is for honors. In such case, if one side revoke more than 
once, the penalty of 100 points for each extra revoke is 
scored by the other side. 

GENERAL RULES 

90. A trick turned and quitted may not be looked at 
(except under Law 82) until the end of the play. The 
penalty for the violation of this law is 25 points in the 
adverse honor score. 

91. Any player during the play of a trick or after the 
four cards are played, and before the trick is turned and 
quitted, may demand that the cards be placed before their 
respective players. 

92. When an adversary of the declarer, before his 
partner plays, calls attention to the trick, either by saying 



266 THe Laws of Auction 

it is his, or, without being requested to do so, by naming 
his card or drawing it toward him, the declarer may require 
such partner to play his highest or lowest card of the suit 
led, or to win or lose the trick. 

93. An adversary of the declarer may call his partner's 
attention to the fact that he is about to play or lead out of 
turn; but if, during the play, he make any unauthorized 
reference to any incident of the play, the declarer may call 
a suit from the adversary whose next turn it is to lead. 

94. In all cases where a penalty has been incurred, the 
offender is bound to give reasonable time for the decision 
of his adversaries. 

NEW CARDS 

95. Unless a pack be imperfect, no player has the right 
to call for one new pack. When fresh cards are demanded, 
two packs must be furnished. When they are produced 
during a rubber, the adversaries of the player demanding 
them have the choice of the new cards. If it be the begin- 
ning of a new rubber, the dealer, whether he or one of his 
adversaries call for the new cards, has the choice. New 
cards cannot be substituted after the pack has been cut 
for a new deal. 

96. A card or cards torn or marked must be replaced 
by agreement or new cards furnished. 

BYSTANDERS 

97. While a bystander, by agreement among the 
players, may decide any question, he should not say any- 
thing unless appealed to ; and if he make any remark which 
calls attention to an oversight affecting the score, or to the 
exaction of a penalty, he is liable to be called upon by the 
players to pay the stakes (not extras) lost. 



THe Laws of Auction 267 

ETIQUETTE OF AUCTION 

In the game of Auction slight intimations convey much 
information. The code succinctly states laws which fix 
penalties for an offense. To offend against etiquette is 
far more serious than to offend against a law; for in the 
latter case the offender is subject to the prescribed penal- 
ties; in the former his adversaries are without redress. 

1. Declarations should be made in a simple manner, 
thus: "one heart," "one no-trump," "pass," "double"; 
they should be made orally and not by gesture. 

2. Aside from his legitimate declaration, a player 
should not show by word or gesture the nature of his hand, 
or his pleasure or displeasure at a play, bid, or double. 

3. If a player demand that the cards be placed, he 
should do so for his own information and not to call his 
partner's attention to any card or play. 

4. An opponent of the declarer should not lead until 
the preceding trick has been turned and quitted ; nor, after 
having led a winning card, should he draw another from 
his hand before his partner has played to the current 
trick. 

5. A card should not be played with such emphasis 
as to draw attention to it, nor should a player detach one 
card from his hand and subsequently play another. 

6. k A player should not purposely incur a penalty be- 
cause he is willing to pay it, nor should he make a second 
revoke to conceal a first. 

7. Conversation during the play should be avoided, 
as it may annoy players at the table or at other tables in 
the room. 

8. The Dummy should not leave his seat to watch his 
partner play. He should not call attention to the score 



268 THe Laws of Auction 

nor to any card or cards that he or the other players 
hold. 

9. If a player say, "I have the rest," or any words 
indicating that the remaining tricks, or any number there- 
of, are his, and one or both of the other players expose his 
or their cards, or request him to play out the hand, he 
should not allow any information so obtained to influence 
his play. 

10. If a player concede, in error, one or more tricks, 
the concession should stand. 

11. A player having been cut out of one table should 
not seek admission in another unless willing to cut for the 
privilege of entry. 

12. A player should not look at any of his cards until 
the end of the deal. 

THE LAWS OF THREE-HANDED AUCTION 

The Laws of Auction govern the three-handed game 
except as follows: 

(1) Three players take part in a game and four consti- 
tute a complete table. Each plays for himself; there are 
no partners, except as provided in Law 7. 

(2) The player who cuts lowest selects his seat and the 
cards with which he deals first. The player who cuts next 
lowest sits on the dealer's left. 

(3) The cards are dealt in four packets, one for each 
of the three players and one for the Dummy.* The Dummy 
hand is not touched until after the final declaration has 
been made. 

(4) The dealer declares, and the bidding continues as 
in Auction, except that each player bids exclusively on 
his own account. 

* This hand is generally dealt opposite to the dealer. 



THe Laws of Auction 269 

(5) The penalty for a declaration out of turn is that 
each of the other players receives 50 points in his honor 
score. A declaration out of turn does not affect the right 
of the player whose turn it is to declare, unless both he 
and the other player, either by passing or declaring, accept 
the improper declaration. 

(6) If a player declare out of turn, and the succeeding 
player either pass or declare, the third player may demand 
that the mistake be corrected as is provided in Law 5. 
In such case the player who first declared out of turn is 
the only one penalized. 

(7) The player making the final declaration, i.e., a 
declaration that has been passed by both of the others, 
plays his own hand and that of the Dummy against the 
other two, who then, and for that particular hand, assume 
the relationship of partners. 

(8) It is advisable that the game be played at a round 
table so that the hand of the Dummy can be placed in 
front of the declarer without obliging any player to move; 
but, in the event of a square table being used, the two 
players who become the adversaries of the declarer should 
sit opposite each other, the Dummy being opposite the 
declarer. At the end of the play the original positions 
should be resumed. 

(9) If, after the deal has been completed and before 
the conclusion of the declaration, any player expose a 
card, each of his adversaries counts 50 points in his honor 
score, and the declarer, if he be not the offender, may call 
upon the player on his left to lead or not to lead the suit 
of the exposed card. If a card be exposed by the declarer 
after the final declaration, there is no penalty, but if 
exposed by an adversary of the declarer, it is subject to 
the same penalty as in Auction. 



270 THe Laws of Auction 

(10) If a player double out of turn, each of his adver- 
saries counts ioo points in his respective honor score, and 
the player whose declaration has been doubled may elect 
whether the double shall stand. The bidding is then 
resumed, but if the double shall be disallowed, the declara- 
tion may not be doubled by the other player. 

(n) The rubber continues until two games have been 
won by the same player; it may consist of two, three, or 
four games. 

(12) When the declarer fulfils his contract, he scores as 
in Auction. When he fails to do so, both of his adver- 
saries score as in Auction. 

(13) Honors are scored by each player separately, i. e. f 
each player who holds one honor scores the value of a 
trick; each player who holds two honors scores twice the 
value of a trick; a player who holds three honors scores 
three times the value of a trick; a player who holds four 
honors scores eight times the value of a trick; and a player 
who holds five honors scores ten times the value of a trick. 
In a no-trump declaration, each ace counts ten, and four 
held by one player count 100. The declarer counts 
separately both his own honors and those held by the 
Dummy. 

(14) A player scores 125 points for winning a game, a 
further 125 points for winning a second game, and 250 
points for winning a rubber. 

(15) At the end of the rubber, all scores of each player 
are added and his total obtained. Each one wins from 
or loses to each other the difference between their re- 
spective totals. A player may win from both the others, 
lose to one and win from the other, or lose to both. 



TKe Laws of Auction 271 

THE LAWS OF DUPLICATE AUCTION 

Duplicate Auction is governed by the Laws of Auction, 
except in so far as they are modified by the following 
special laws: 

A. Scoring. In Duplicate Auction there are neither, 
games nor rubbers. Each deal is scored just as in Auction 
with the addition that whenever a pair makes 30 or more 
for tricks as the score of one deal, it adds as a premium 
125 points in its honor column. 

B. Irregularities in the Hands. If a player have either 
more or less than his correct number of cards, the course to 
be pursued is determined by the time of the discovery of the 
irregularity. 

(1) When the irregularity is discovered before or 

during the original play: There must be a 
new deal. 

(2) When the irregularity is discovered at the time 

the cards are taken up for overplay and before 
such overplay has begun: It must be sent 
back to the table from which it came, and the 
error be there rectified. 

(3) When the irregularity is not discovered un- 

til after the overplay has begun: In two- 
table duplicate there must be a new deal; 
but in a game in which the same deals are 
played at more than two tables, the hands 
must be rectified as is provided above and 
then passed to the next table without over- 
play at the table at which the error was dis- 
covered; in which case, if a player have less 
than thirteen cards and his adversary the cor- 
responding surplus, each pair takes the average 



272 THe Laws of -Auction 

score for that deal; if, however, his partner 
have the corresponding surplus, his pair is given 
the lowest score and his opponents the highest 
score made at any table for that deal. 

C. Playing the Cards. Each player, when it is his turn 
to play, must place his card, face upward, before him and 
toward the centre of the table. He must allow it to re- 
main upon the table in this position until all have played 
to the trick, when he must turn it over and place it face 
downward, nearer to himself; if he or his partner have won 
the trick, the card should point toward his partner and 
himself; otherwise it should point toward the adversaries. 

The declarer may either play Dummy's cards or may call 
them by name whenever it is Dummy's turn to play and 
have Dummy play them for him. 

A trick is turned and quitted when all four players have 
turned and ceased to touch their respective cards. 

The cards must be left in the order in which they were 
played until the scores of the deal have been recorded. 

D. The Revoke. A revoke may be claimed at any time 
before the last trick of the deal in which it occurs has been 
turned and quitted and the scores of that deal agreed upon 
and recorded, but not thereafter. 

E. Error in Score. A proven error in the trick or 
honor score may be corrected at any time before the final 
score of the contestants for the deal or deals played before 
changing opponents has been made up and agreed upon. 

F. A New Deal. A new deal is not allowed for any 
reason, except as provided in Laws of Auction 36 and 37. 
If there be an impossible declaration some other penalty 
must be selected.* A declaration (other than passing) 

* See Law 50. The same ruling applies to Law 54. 



THe Laws of Auction 273 

out of turn must stand;* as a penalty, the adversaries 
score 50 honor points in their honor column and the partner 
of the offending player cannot thereafter participate in 
the bidding of that deal. 

The penalty for the offense mentioned in Law 81 is 50 
points in the adverse honor score. 

G. Team Matches. A match consists of any agreed 
number of deals, each of which is played once at each 
table. 

The contesting teams must be of equal size, but each 
may consist of any agreed number of pairs (not less than 
two). One half of each team, or as near thereto as pos- 
sible, sits north and south ; the other half east and west. 

In case the teams are composed of an odd number of 
pairs, each team, in making up its total score, adds, as 
though won by it, the average score of all pairs seated in 
the positions opposite to its odd pair. 

In making up averages, fractions are disregarded and the 
nearest whole numbers taken, unless it be necessary to 
take the fraction into account to avoid a tie, in which case 
the match is won "by the fraction of a point. " The team 
making the higher score wins the match. 

H. Pair Contests. The score of a pair is compared 
only with other pairs who have played the same hands. 
A pair obtains a plus score for the contest when its net total 
is more than the average; a minus score for the contest 
when its net total is less than the average. 

* This includes a double or redouble out of turn. See Law 57. 



A Reprint from 

LAWS OF ROYAL AUCTION BRIDGE 

Adopted by 

THE PORTLAND CLUB, LONDON, 

May, 1914 



27S 



A Reprint of Those Sections of the Laws of 
Royal Auction Bridge Adopted May, 1914, 
by The Portland Club, London, Which 
Differ from the Laws of Auction Adopted by 
The Whist Club, New York, Nov., 1913.* 

SCORING 

4. When the declarer (vide Law 50) makes good his 
declaration by winning at least as many tricks as he 
declared to win, each trick above 6 counts: 

6 points when Clubs are trumps 

7 " " Diamond s are trumps 

8 " " Hearts are trumps 

9 " " Spades (Royals) are trumps 
10 " " there are no trumps 

These values become respectively 12, 14, 16, 18, and 20 
when the declaration has been doubled; and 24, 28 t 32, 36, 
and 40 when the declaration has been redoubled (vide 
Law 56). 

8. Chicane is thus reckoned: 

If a player holds no trump, he and his partner score for 
chicane twice the value of a trump-suit trick. The value 
of chicane is in no way affected by any doubling or re- 
doubling. 

* The remaining sections of the English laws agree with the 
American laws. 

277 



278 English Laws of Auction 

9. Slam is thus reckoned: 

If a player and his partner make, independently of any 
tricks taken for the revoke penalty: 

(1) All 13 tricks, they score for grand slam 100 points. 

(2) 12 tricks, they score for little slam 50 points. 

FORMATION OF TABLE 

20. Two players cutting cards of equal value, unless 
such cards are the two highest, cut again; should they be 
the two lowest, a fresh cut is necessary to decide which of 
those two deals. 

21. Three players cutting cards of equal value cut 
again ; should the fourth (or remaining) card be the highest, 
the two lowest of the new cut are partners, the lower of 
those two the dealer. Should the fourth card be the lowest, 
the two highest are partners, the original lowest the dealer, 

ENTRY AND RE-ENTRY 

25. Any one quitting a table prior to the conclusion of a 
rubber may, with consent of the other three players, ap- 
point a substitute in his absence during that rubber. 

26. A player joining one table, whilst belonging to 
another, loses his right of re-entry into the latter, and takes 
his chance of cutting in, as if he were a fresh candidate. 

SHUFFLING 

29. The pack must not be shuffled during the play of 
the hand. 

30. A pack, having been played with, must neither be 
shuffled by dealing it into packets, nor across the table. 



English Laws of Auction 279 

A NEW DEAL 

VI. Should the dealer deal two cards at once, or two 
cards to the same hand, and then deal a third; but if, prior 
to dealing that card, the dealer can, by altering the posi- 
tion of one card only, rectify such error, he may do so. 

41. A player may not look at any of his cards until the 
deal has been completed; should he do so, and a card be 
afterwards exposed, the adversary on his left shall have 
the option of allowing the deal to stand or not. 

42. If the dealer, before he has dealt fifty-one cards, 
look at any card, his adversaries have a right to see it, and 
may exact a new deal. 

DECLARING TRUMPS 

47. The dealer, having examined his hand, may either 
pass or may declare to win at least the odd trick, but he 
may declare to win more. Should he make a declaration, 
he must state whether the hand shall be played with or 
without trumps; in the former case, he must name which 
suit shall be trumps. The lowest declaration he can make 
is "one club," i. e. t he declares to win at least one odd trick, 
clubs being trumps. 

48. A declaration of a greater number of tricks in a 
suit of lower value, which equals the last declaration in 
value of points, shall be considered a higher declaration — 
e. g. t a declaration of "three clubs" is a higher declaration 
than "two spades M (royal), and "four clubs" is higher 
than "three hearts." If all the players pass, the hand is 
abandoned, and the deal passes to the next player. 

51. If a player make an illegal declaration, such as 
declaring an impossible number of tricks, the adversary 
on his left may demand a new deal, may treat such declara- 



280 English Laws of Auction 

tion as not made, or may permit it to stand. The player 
in error cannot be penalized for more than grand slam. 

54. After the final declaration has been made, a player 
is not entitled to give his partner any information as to a 
previous declaration whether made by himself or adversary, 
but a player is entitled to inquire, at any time during the 
play of the hand, what was the final declaration. 

61. A declaration once made cannot be altered, except 
as provided by Law 53 [corresponding to American Law 
No. 50], but if a declaration is obviously a misnomer and is 
amended practically in the same breath, it stands as 
corrected. 

DUMMY 

66. When the declarer draws a card, either from his 
own hand or from Dummy, such card is not considered as 
played until actually quitted. 

67. A card once played, or named by the declarer as to 
be played from his own hand or from Dummy, cannot be 
taken back, except to save a revoke. 

68. The declarer's partner may not look over his 
adversaries' hands, nor leave his seat for the purpose of 
watching his partner's play. 

EXPOSED CARDS 

71. If all the cards have been dealt and before the 
final declaration has been made any player expose a card 
from his hand, the adversary on his left may demand a 
new deal. If the deal be allowed to stand, the exposed card 
may be taken up and cannot be called. 

72. If, after the final declaration has been made, and 
before a card is led, the partner of the player who has to 



EnglisK Laws of Auction 281 

lead to the first trick exposes a card from his hand, the 
declarer may, instead of calling the card, require the leader 
not to lead the suit of the exposed card. 

CARDS LIABLE TO BE CALLED 

78. If all the players throw their cards on the table 
face upwards, the hands are abandoned, and the score 
must be left as claimed and admitted. The hands may be 
examined for the purpose of establishing a revoke, but for 
no other purpose. 

79. A card detached from the rest of the hand of either 
of the declarer's adversaries, so as to be named, is liable to 
be called; but should the declarer name a wrong card, he 
is liable to have a suit called when first he or his partner 
has the lead. 

83. If any player lead out of turn, and the other three 
have followed him, the trick is complete and the error 
cannot be rectified; but if only the second or the second 
and third have played to the false lead, their cards, on the 
discovery of the mistake, can be taken back; and there is 
no penalty against any one excepting the original offender, 
and then only when he is one of the declarer's adversaries. 

THE REVOKE 

91. The penalty for each revoke shall be: 

(a) When the declarer revokes, his adversaries shall 

score 150 points, in addition to any penalty 
which he may have incurred for not making 
good his declaration. 

(b) When either of the adversaries revoke, the 

declarer may score 150 points, or may take three 



282 EnglisH Laws of Auction 

tricks from his opponents and add them to his 
own. Such tricks, taken as a penalty, may 
assist the declarer to make good his declaration, 
but they shall not entitle him to score in the case 
of the declaration having been doubled or re- 
doubled. 
96. If the player in fault be the declarer, the eldest 
hand may require him to play the highest or lowest card of 
the suit in which he had renounced, provided both of the 
declarer's adversaries have played to the current trick; 
but this penalty cannot be exacted from the declarer when 
he is fourth in hand, nor can it be enforced at all from 
Dummy. 

100. Should both sides subject themselves to the 
penalty for a revoke, neither side should score anything 
except for honors or chicane; should either or both sides 
revoke more than once, the side making the fewest revokes 
scores 150 points for each extra revoke. 

GENERAL RULES 

no. Once a trick is complete, turned, and quitted, it 
must not be looked at [except under Law 89 (corresponding 
to American Law No. 82)] until the end of the hand. 

THREE-HANDED ROYAL AUCTION BRIDGE 

IV. If, after the deal has been completed, and before a 
card is led, any player expose a card from his hand, he shall 
forfeit 100 points to each of the other players; and the 
declarer— if he be not the offender — may call upon the 
eldest hand not to lead from the suit of the exposed card. 
If he does not exercise this right, the card must be left 









English Laws of .Auction 283 

on the table as an exposed card. If the card be exposed by 
the declarer, after the final declaration has been made, 
there is no penalty. 

V. If a player double out of turn, he forfeits 100 points 
to each of his adversaries, and the player whose declaration 
has been so doubled shall have the right to say whether or 
not the double shall stand. The bidding is then resumed; 
but if the double has been disallowed, the said declaration 
cannot be doubled by the player on the right of the 
offender. 

IX. One hundred points are scored by each player for 
every game he wins, and the winner of the rubber adds a 
further 250 points to his score. 



A COMPARISON OF THE AMERICAN AND 
ENGLISH LAWS 

CHICANE 

Taking the laws in their order, the first difference is the 
scoring of chicane. America has abolished a chicane- value, 
England has not. And here I think America is right. 
Chicane has no place in a bidding game. In old Bridge, no 
one but the dealer, or his partner, had a chance to make the 
trump or to play the hand. In Auction that chance is 
open to every one. In Bridge, any one who lacked cards 
of the suit named as trump deserved some compensation. 
To lack one suit means to hold an over-supply of some other 
suit; and in Auction such a holder has a chance to bid his 
long suit. His lack is an advantage instead of a disad- 
vantage and therefore requires no compensation. Whether 
or not he gets the bid, he has his chance. 

THE CUT 

American laws reverse the suits in cutting, — hearts 
being low and spades high. English laws do not. Ameri- 
can laws provide that if, in cutting, a player expose more 
than one card, the higher is his cut. English laws provide 
that he must cut again. I prefer the latter ruling; also, 
I can see no reason for reversing the suit-values. 

284 



American and English Laws 285 

FORMING TABLES 

After a table has been formed and the four players have 
cut to decide partners, the lowest cut is, of course, the 
dealer. Both countries allow him the choice of cards and 
seats and force him to abide by such choice once made. 
A footnote to the American laws permits him to consult 
his partner before making his decision; this seems good to 
me. England makes no such provision. 

England is forced to make various provisions for re- 
cutting, when cards of equal face value are cut. America, 
giving the suits rank and order, is never forced to recut. 
Two eight-spots, for instance, can not be "equal" for the 
suit of one outranks that of the other. Here, America 
takes the palm. Time and trouble are saved. The Eng- 
lish ruling is an antiquated survival from the days of 
Whist when suits had no rank. 

SHUFFLING 

England forbids explicitly any shuffling during the 
play of a hand. This is good. 

THE DECLARATION 

England permits the dealer to pass. This is excellent. 

England emphatically forbids that any bid previous to 
the final bid (any "back-bid"), shall ever be asked after 
the bidding is closed. America merely permits the adver- 
saries to "call a lead" in case of such an offense. Again, 
England is right. 

America permits "inadvertent" bids to be changed, 
provided the next player has not passed, declared, nor 



286 Comparison of American 

doubled. This, I think, is the worst flaw in the American 
rules. England says that "if a declaration is obviously a 
misnomer and is amended practically in the same breath, 
it stands as corrected." This is an improvement on the 
American law; but, to my mind, no bid once made should 
be alterable, except in the case of an insufficient bid. 

DOUBLING AND REDOUBLING 

America provides a penalty for doubling more than 
once, — ioo points on the adverse honor-score, or a new 
deal; also a penalty for doubling a partner's declaration or 
redoubling a partner's double, — 50 adverse honor points or 
a new deal. 

DUMMY 

In regard to rulings concerning Dummy, I think America 
wins, "hands down." 

America permits Dummy to call attention to an adverse 
revoke, an adverse exposed card, or an adverse lead out of 
turn (this, provided Dummy has not voluntarily looked 
into the hand of either adversary). English Dummies are 
debarred from such privileges. 

In America, a touched card in Dummy is a played card, 
unless the declarant preface the act with the words "I 
arrange, " or with similar words. English declarants can 
pull and push Dummy's cards in and out and they are not 
"played" cards unless they are quitted. I dislike such 
easy-going methods. In duplicate Auction, if the declar- 
ant name a card to Dummy, that card is "played." In 
plain Auction, if the declarant touch a card of Dummy's, 
that card should be "played. " 



And English Laws 287 

EXPOSED CARDS 

A card exposed between the completion of the deal and 
the final declaration, is differently penalized in the two 
countries. America debars the partner from bidding and 
doubling during that declaration, and makes the exposed 
card subject to call, — a double penalty. England permits 
the left-hand adversary to call a new deal. If this is not 
done, the exposed card may be taken up. 

England has but two classes of exposed cards, i . e. : 
I. Two or more cards played at once. 
II. Any card exposed in any way on, or above, the 
level of the table. 

America very properly adds a third class, namely : 

Any card mentioned by either adversary as being held 
in his or his partner's hand. 

If two or more cards are played simultaneously by an 
adversary of the declarant, America gives the declarant the 
right to call any one of such cards to the current trick, 
and also to treat the other card, or cards, as exposed. This 
seems to me a double penalty. 

If an adversary detach from his hand a card that can 
be named, it can be called. But in England, should the 
declarant name it wrongly, he may be penalized by having a 
suit called on his or Dummy's first lead. 

THE REVOKE 

Here, America loses. England retains the original 
revoke penalty, — "three tricks, or 150 points," — the 
latter being the perfect equivalent of the former. America 
makes it "three tricks, or 100 points, " — a very unbalanced 
ruling. 



288 Comparison of American 

GENERAL RULES 

America has established the excellent new penalty of 
25 adverse honor-points, for turning a quitted trick. Eng- 
land still lacks this desirable penalty. 

England rules that if any player claim a penalty to which 
he is not entitled, he loses his right to exact any penalty. 

America provides that either adversary may call his 
partner's attention to the fact that he is about to lead, or 
to play, out of turn. But that, if "he make any unauthor- 
ized reference to any incident of the play," the declarant 
may call a suit from the adversary whose next turn it is to 
lead. 

4 ' Calling suit" appears to be the favorite American 
penalty. It is called into play in numerous situations where 
England either rules for a new deal, or says simply that 
the thing must not happen, 

England has increased the slam-values to 50 and 100, 
respectively. 

Many slams are scored on hands that play themselves, 
— hands on which the veriest beginner could scarcely avoid 
taking all the tricks. Such slams deserve no compensation 
whatever; they are the result of luck, pure and simple. 

Many other slams are the result of the most consummate 
skill. Where an excellent player can make but five-odd 
on a hand, an expert will often pull out a sixth trick. 
This trick is sometimes the result of brilliant foresight, 
sometimes of sound judgment and close calculation, some- 
times of an almost audacious willingness to take a long 
chance. Such skill, or such courage, deserves an adequate 
reward. Twenty and forty are absurd values to place. 
They are Bridge figures, not Auction figures. 



And EnglisH Laws 289 

In Bridge, all numbers ran lower than they do to-day. 
There were but two ways to achieve the magnificent sum 
of one hundred, — going rubber, and holding all four aces 
in one hand (this latter, of course, being a very unusual 
bit of luck). There were no fifties, and no two-hundred- 
and -fifty. 

In Auction there are countless hundreds, countless 
fifties, a rubber-value that is two-and-a-half times what 
it used to be, and a new suit (royals) whose honors are 
capable of totalling very tidy sums. Twenty is a figure 
to smile at; forty is but little better. 

It is therefore plain that the slam-values should either be 
abolished, or raised to adequacy; the former, if the majority 
of slams are the result of luck, — the latter, if they are the 
result of skill. And, as all slams must be rewarded alike, 
it follows that they must all be scored as the majority deserve. 
It remains but to decide between the two causes— luck 
and skill. 

The answer seems obvious. Luck-slams are achieved 
by perfect, or almost perfect, hands. And perfection 
is as rare in Auction-hands as in anything else. Just as a 
three-ace hand is more common than a four-ace hand, 
so is a four- or five- trick hand (or a hand that contains f our- 
or five-odd for the player of average ability) more common 
than a six- or seven-trick hand. But while luck is variable, 
skill (if it exists at all) is constant. In other words, the 
material for an obvious slam-hand is rather rare; but the 
skill of the expert is always there, always ready to make 
the most of an unpromising hand, or to squeeze an extra 
trick out of a good one. 

Therefore : 

The present slam-value is an absurdly inadequate 
reward for skill. 



290 American and EnglisH Laws 

Luck deserves no reward whatever. 

Slam- values should be abolished or raised. 

It is obvious that all slams must be treated alike, and 
also that more slams are the result of skill than of luck. 

Their value should thus be raised. 

If you are tempted to grumble when your adversary 
occasionally scores fifty, or a hundred, on a pinochle 
slam-hand, comfort yourself with the thoughts of those 
countless other hands where your skill can squeeze out 
an extra trick and where a proper reward will await your 
success. 

If I seem to be disloyal in frequently favoring the rulings 
of a country other than my own, it is in the interest of 
fairness and desire for perfection. Self-satisfaction is 
admittedly death to progress. It is better to acknowledge 
a weakness than to foster it. The wise parent is not the 
one who sees no faults in his offspring, but the one who 
recognizes and corrects such faults. The true patriot is not 
the blatant idiot who can perceive no mistakes in his own 
country and no good in any other ("little old America's 
good enough for me"), — but the thoughtful man who loves 
his country in spite of his realization that she can, possibly, 
learn some profitable lessons from others. 



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